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Have you checked the engine oil level?

The 164 has a low oil level kill switch that will disable the starter when oil gets to the 'low' indicator on the oil dipstick. I guess the kill switch could go bad, like all the other switches but I haven't heard of that happening before.

I'd like to do Steve's modification so that the remote door locks will work again, with or without the alarm system.

Mark
No low level oil system kill switch on the 164 that I know of just red light on dash with dipstick icon.
 

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And that probe often fails, so it pays to check the oil once in a while as we have always done. One note, if you have one of the 91 164S's which do use a lot of oil (there are a few due to bad factory installed oil rings, so Carlo told me), then you do have to check the oil every few gas fillings if the probe has indeed failed.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
No alarm battery. Alarm runs off ca battery. Also, check the wiring harness to the alarm. Mine had some ratty connections that I had to rebuild. I don't use the alarm (but turning it on deactivates starter/activates immobilizer...whichever it is). Drivers door does not have a handle? Is the wiring intact in the door? Is there a drive's door motor?
For what it's worth when there was no car battery in it and I opened the trunk the alarm went off. And yes drivers door is completely stripped no motor as far I can tell. I believe the story went that the plastic door handle snapped and the PO was in middle of replacing it before it sat.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Sorry, mixed up with my SAAB which did have a backup internal battery apparently.

Alarm control unit responds to the fob and connects the fob to the power locks so they can be activated remotely.

Alarm control unit is in the left side trunk area near the battery. If that connection gets loose weird stuff can happen. The siren is on the right side of the trunk and is deactivated using the special tiny alarm key. That bypasses the alarm control unit so the power locks no longer respond to the remote fob. The key in the lock still operates the power locks.
What year/make Saab do you have? I have a 1999 9-3, great cars, I never knew some of them had aback up battery.
 

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I had a 97 SAAB 9000 Aero until a lap texter rear ended me just hard enough to write it off.

My understanding is that the alarm was set to go off if the main service battery was disconnected. I may be mistaken but that's what I recall. To do that would require a power source to be in the alarm. I concluded it was a battery.

If the Alfa alarm went off with the service battery disconnected or missing then it too must have an internal battery. A capacitor likely would not hold enough charge and there can be time issues with capacitors. It is possible it used a capacitor and not a battery. The key on the siren is there to switch off the alarm before you disconnect the service battery
 

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The 164 anti-theft back up battery is for the siren and it is inside siren pack on right side of trunk. If system armed (alarm key turn on) siren will go off if the 12v car battery disconnected..
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Okay so after over a week of rain I finally got some time to work on the Alfa. Confirmed timing, confirmed 12v on the tach with the battery I have and I got a new battery for the Code alarm fob and it worked the alarm disabled, no more siren when I open the trunk:cool:. However when I went to give it a try to see if it would crank I ran into the same issue, just a dull click. I'm thinking it's probably the starter but does anyone have any other thoughts before I go taking it out?
 

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Hit starter with a hammer!
 

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That's what I used to do with my Sprint GT when the solenoid would hang up. I would set the key with a stick so it is in the start position, go out and hit the solenoid with a long metal rod, and the car would start. Run back to unlatch the key from start to run position. Success, lol.
 

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You do not want the starter job, look very well for any others causes, like grounds, etc. The starter job is just really, really not fun.
Charles
 

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If you want to turn off the alarm, but want the remote lock and unlock, you can remove the alarm and jumper some wires in the trunk to get your remotes to lock and unlock again, just no alarm system. I did that in conjunction with the starter disable disable, like Steve describes at the console wire. (Purple wire, or was it purple/black). I would have to search for the trunk siren jumper thread, as I do not remember what I did there, but it was just a simple wire jumper. Mind, you the remote does not have good range, you have to be pretty close to the car, but it is still kind of nice to have that feature.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter #35
You do not want the starter job, look very well for any others causes, like grounds, etc. The starter job is just really, really not fun.
Charles
I need to track all the wires down and make sure there is no missing connections or split wires. I think it was dismissed but in every manual car I've driven you need to first depress the clutch to start it, and my clutch is limp. My thought was maybe the switch couldn't tell if the pedal was being fully depressed. Is that at all a possibility? Also thank you on for the alarm and door lock information.

Furthermore I really appreciate everybody's input and for so warmly welcoming me to the forum!:)
 

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"but in every manual car I've driven you need to first depress the clutch to start it"

Not in these cars. No such system.
 

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Wow. Imagine never having driven a car not equipped with idiot proof Audi style starter inhibitors*. Those whacky devices were adopted after it was discovered that Americans were unaware of the difference between the brake pedal and the accelerator. Also, heel and toe became very difficult and in some cars impossible because makers separated those two pedals by big gaps to address this odd phenomenon. The idea of cancelling the driver's license of anyone who could not drive did not occur to the regulators.

*Yes, I know the difference between the brake pedal and the clutch pedal. The odd thing is that the brake pedal inhibitor switch is moved to the clutch pedal for manual transmission cars. Why pressing down on two pedals at once was considered too complex remains a mystery. Of course, anyone PROPERLY trained to drive a car understands that the car is ALWAYS left in gear when unattended. Therefore, the engine is ALWAYS switched off when exiting the car with intent to leave it parked. That is why automatics require selection of Park before removing the key. And, the driver ALWAYS depresses the clutch pedal before cranking the starter even though he or she ALWAYS first selects neutral anyway (and gives the gear lever a little waggle before turning the key just to be absolutely sure the gearbox is in neutral even though you know it is just as you know the clutch pedal still disengaged the clutch). I was quite surprised when I first discovered the starter inhibitor "feature" on manual transmission cars (my Audi S4, as it happens) when I released the clutch pedal a tad too soon and the engine died during the starting sequence!
 

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"Americans were unaware"

Careful, your bias/prejudice is showing again.
 

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Discussion Starter #39 (Edited)
Wow. Imagine never having driven a car not equipped with idiot proof Audi style starter inhibitors*. Those whacky devices were adopted after it was discovered that Americans were unaware of the difference between the brake pedal and the accelerator.
Though yes I am young my main reason I thought that the 164 would have it is because vehicles older than the 164 had clutch start inhibitors, though I have never owned one and never would but as an example the 1986 Mustang had them. I figured that Alfa would have been on the cutting edge of "safety" technology being the luxury brand they are.
 

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"Americans were unaware"

Careful, your bias/prejudice is showing again.
Neither bias nor prejudgment. The unintended acceleration phenomenon was restricted to the USA market. No cases were reported in Canada and, of course, we use the same vehicles on the same road system.
 
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