Alfa Romeo Forums banner
81 - 100 of 406 Posts

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #81 · (Edited)
PCV and spacer plate install on 164 intake

some more picture as pdf file to big to upload.

refer TSB 04.95.01
 

Attachments

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #82 ·
couple more pix
 

Attachments

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #83 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #84 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #85 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #86 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #87 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Another way to tighten alternator belt

Clint's maintenance tip on how he tightened alternator belt:

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/177018-alternator-belt-adjustment.html

I pull headlight and if you are changing alternator or belt and I would still insist you consider removing headlight so you can get to that hidden bolt holding radiator hose steel tube to compressor and not saw through bracket as he found someone had done.

That nut for bottom mount bolt still hard to see under exhaust manifold no matter what you remove.
 

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #89 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #90 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #91 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #92 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #93 · (Edited)
Changing 164 oil pan links and text info

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/513995-post11.html

164 Discussions - Cracked Oil Pan

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/756804-post9.html

Here is Bob C's text from last two links above:

Changing 164 12v V6 oil pan with engine in car

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Process will work on 24v V6 with minor changes I am pretty sure.

Here is text of Bob's 164 pan replacement procedure for 164 digest:

If the crack is not too serious, you probably can away with having it welded or even "epoxy'ed". I took mine to a machine shop and the guy MIG welded it. He charged $60 (is that a standard price for welding oil pan?). BTW - if you have it repaired, I suggest you test it with water to make sure there's no leak before putting it back. Mine had some seepage after the first repair so I took it back and the guy added some more weld.

I suggest you get these parts first: oil pan gasket, cigarette seal (a good time to replace this), three exhaust pipe gaskets (you're going to remove the two flex pipes).

Getting the oil pan on and off is a bit of work. Give yourself half a day to take it off and half a day to put it back on.

Now, the good news is you don't need to lift the engine out but the bad news is you still need to lift the engine up (a couple of inches). You don't need to drop the subframe. You do need to take out the intermediate drive shaft (mine is an automatic and it makes things a lot easier because there is one hard-to-get-to bolt/nut next to the shaft). You don't need to disconnect the oil pump pick up (as somebody said they did in their procedure), I found out that one can take the oil pan down without taking out the oil pump pick up.

Here're the procedure:

1. Raise the front of the car so you can work under. Take off the right front wheel and the wheel well liner. Take off the drive belt covers. Take off the A/C and power steering belts. Loosen the alternator and lower it to allow more room to raise the engine.

2. Disconnect the top dog-bone engine mount. Take out the bolts on the two lower engine mounts.

3. Remove the two front exhaust (flex) pipes from under the car.

4. Disconnect the right outer half shaft from the intermediate shaft. You'll need 6mm allen wrench (get one on a socket so you can use a long bar and torque wrench later). Use 17mm open wrench on the other side to hold shaft from rotating. Once disconnected, move the half shaft to one side without disconnecting it from the strut side. Remove 3 10mm bolts holding the intermediate shaft (around where the bearing is) and slide the shaft to the right to remove it.

5. Raising the engine:
I used an engine hoist to raise the engine. If you use floor jacks only, be careful to balance the engine weight when you jack it up. You can put a piece of board under the oil pan, jack it up (oil pan should normally be strong enough to support the engine) then support it at the crank pulley. Raise the engine slowly and as much as you can (perhaps a couple of inches) watching inside the engine bay for clearance. Use a 2x4 etc to support the engine under the crank pulley after it is raised. Note that there are a couple bolts holding the oil pan next to the crank pulley.

6. Oil pan attachments:
Now you can go around and remove all the nuts and bolts holding the oil pan. Mostly 11mm and a couple 13mm as I recall. Have you drain the oil yet? Also, loosen the oil temp. sensor and pull up the dip stick to avoid damage.

7. Dropping the pan - the fun part:
Now, you will find out that you cannot just lower the pan and take it out. The sub-frame and the oil pump pick up won't let you. I started to take the oil pump pick up out and one allen bolt was giving me some hard time. After a break, I thought I'd give the oil pan puzzle another try. And yes, I took the pan down without detaching the oil pump pick up. Here's what I did (from memory): Drop the pan a little bit with the left side a little lower, slide it forward and to the left as much as possible so you can rotate it (yes, rotate!). I think I have rotated the pan clockwise (looking up) for about 225 degrees before getting it to clear the sub-frame.

Good luck!

Bob C
 

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #94 · (Edited)
Alfa 164 V6 12v indentifying oil pans info

There are early and late (deep and shallow) oil pans and associated parts.

Early deep pan 96410204
gasket 60513135
oil pump deep pick up tube 60513129
engine front cover (almost the same as Milano 96411345 cover) 96410206
dip stick long 60561030
low level oil sensor long 60512897

Later model shallow pan 96412235
gasket was 60560938 now 60565777 or use sealer
oil pump shallow pick up 60542412
engine front cover 96411826
dip stick short 60777764
short oil lever sensor 60563896

later black RTV gasket sealer 60805211 or 71720318 (used instead of fiber gaskets).

Quick ID: Early deeper pans have two bolt hex heads hidden behind front crank pulley that are threaded into pan so hex heads up so bolts go down through front cover into pan.

Later shallower pans have those two bolts with hex heads down and threaded into front cover so hex heads under front edge of pan and closer together
 

Attachments

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Most of us in USA have 12v V6 engines with early deeper pans but some later 164s made in 92 or 93 have shallower pans, shorter oil pick up tubes, did sticks and oil level sensors so these pix are showing that later configuration.

Which ever type you have you need to match pan to your engines front cover when replacing it.
 

Attachments

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Things to help 164 A/C cool better

Every little thing helps once system working correctly.

Such as:

Manual fan switch to control radiator cooling fan for when stopped in traffic or on hot parking lot start ups.

Good rubber seal on top of false fire wall against closed hood. I insert a long smaller hose inside seal to puff it up. Not to large of outside diameter so as to cause hood to bulge up.

Two factory rubber seals plugged into top seal at each hood strut fender attach point. Not a show stopper but nice to have if they haven't been lost.

Clean a/c air filter in evaporator box behind false firewall.

Properly clipped and sealed expanion valve and frost switch pigtails to outlet tube of evaporator. Early 164s frost switch has straight sensing tube like Milano tube not a pig tail and is inserted into evpaorator box into evap coils.

Wrapped and insulated POA (EPR) valve tubing and sensing line from evaporator to EPR valve in engine bay.

Good seal between evapoarator box and blower motor box.

Install a hot water shut off valve in rear of head hose going to heater core as temp door seals inside blower motor box will leak by heat from heater core as car ages. (rear head on 24v and front head on 12v).

Verify that air recirculation door in evaporator box actually closes when button on a/c panel pushed and green light on. Door motor can be bad or wired backwards so opens when button pushed or when ECU turns light on in auto mode. (Murphy's Law works here)
 

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #97 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #98 ·

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #99 · (Edited)
Link to Fiat (Alfa) ePer Spare Parts web based DVD

This is great link just click on SX first if your 164 is LHD.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/1049181-post32.html

Thanks to salieri164 for this link way faster than me loading it on my old XP machine.
 

·
Moderator
1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
Joined
·
28,333 Posts
Discussion Starter · #100 · (Edited)
Trouble shooting no starter working condition in 164

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/1055805-post5.html

Trouble shooting no starter working condition in 164

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Troubleshoot system as follows:

First verify you have clean posts and terminals at battery and that you have 12v voltage showing on dash voltmeter with key on and lights work. Also verify yoiu have good ground between engine/transmission grounding strap/cable and body attach point near air cleaner and coolant tank area of chassis grounding attach point.

1. Check ignition switch malfunction first, open fuse panel door under steering column, locate 4-wire connector to right of steering column. With key OFF, car in neutral jumper red power wire to purple wire momentarily. If starter works now try it with key.

2. If no go did you hear starter relay I10 click? It is in 6-pak of relays to right of 4-wire connector and usually is a Bosch red-stripe relay with diode same as engine computer one.

3. If starter relay does not appear to work you can try swapping the S12b red stripe relay for engine computer located under cover next to coil on top radiator support. If swapping relays get starter to work and now engine won't fire off and run then starter relay is bad.

3. If still no joy you need to verify starter wire in BIG round connector G151 behind false firewall has power at pin 1 with key in start position (if starter relay not working no power will get to pin 1) I test starter here by applying 12v power directly to pin 1 female side of G151 to verify starter will work.

G151 female pin 1 to starter is one of two pins in outer circle. The other active pin 12 next to it is to H47 micro switch on throttle body for 164S only suspension system.

Report your findings/results/progress/frustrations.

If starter won't work by jumping pin 1 female pin socket then you know you need a starter.

If starter works by direct power to pin 1 female socket and changing starter relay doesn't help then it is possible fault in anti theft wiring or N45 unit in trunk.

Next stop is G241 2-wire connector under center console to right of shifter lever. To remove anti theft immobilizer feature you need to disconnect G241 and jumper purple to purple-black wire in front conector half going back to dash.

To get to G241 connector, remove rear ash tray and remove two console retaing screws under ash tray opening, pull up parking brake lever, put shifter in 4th or 1 if A/T, slide console rearward and lift up on shifter.
__________________
 
81 - 100 of 406 Posts
Top