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1990 164QV Euro spec & 1991 168B
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Note: 24v steel tank models very similiar as is Euro models with plastic tank. See Alfa parts CD or DVD for differences.

As you all may know by now Non-Quik Silver Rescue project has taken on a life of its own and once a car has set up with a tank of gas for over four years neither the gas or tank are fit for the engine to consume. Not to mention the fuel pump won't work.

I ended up pumping out to foul gas, pulling sick pump and getting sick myself at the sight inside the tank.

Spare parts to the rescue as I had a tank I was holding for Old Nero rescue project, but she is way down in the que. We had recently picked up a pump assembly from a Pick-N-Pull 164 so all I had to do was freshen up tank and pump and test them together on the garage floor like I did engine.

Use stato-seals on tank cover bolts frome Home Depot: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-Galvanized-Bonded-Sealing-Washer-4-Piece-806718/204276436

NOTE/Caution There is/was only one hole of the 8 in top of pump mount (rubber bushing) for soda straw that is drilled all the way through. Hopefully you pick the right one.
Here are some show and tell pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Some assembly required:

Note rubber pad on bottom of pump basket to keep it stuck to bottom of tank and keep pump noise vibration low.

Also note brass check valve that screws into top of pump that is part of brass banjo fitting takes three copper sealing washers.

NOTE/Caution There is/was only one hole of the 8 in top of pump mount (rubber bushing) for soda straw that is drilled all the way through. Hopefully you pick the right one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Now on with the assembly process:

See that short rubber hose just under tank cover. That is one take usually cracks and causes low or no fuel pressure to engine. On later models (higher chassis numbers 6250454 and up) there is also a second rubber hose closer to pump that also can break on those models.

Note The o-rings or sealing washers I put on tank cover bolts to keep gas fumes from passing by bolts when tank under pressure. I am now using statoseals (metal washer with neoprene washer attached from Home Depot). These are very similiar to seals we used on aircraft windshield bolts and fuel cell bolts to prevent leaks.

Be sure that stainless steel basket straps locking tabs are not broken and slots in lower basket for straps are not broken.

White elbow tube is pressure line to engine fuel filter and on to fuel rail. The black elbow tube is return line from fuel rail pressure regulator.

NOTE/Caution There is/was only one hole of the 8 in top of pump mount (rubber bushing) for soda straw that is drilled all the way through. Hopefully you pick the right one.

Use stato-seal washers on tank cover bolts: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-10-Galvanized-Bonded-Sealing-Washer-4-Piece-806718/204276436
 

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Steve, were you able to find some submersible fuel hose for in the tank use? I haven't read that anybody on the forum has been able to get a hold of the correct stuff even from Difatta.
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I found some 5/16" (7.9mm) ID hose listed as SAE30R10 Spec which is a looser fit that I used on Quik Silver two years ago and it is holding up so far with the OEM Alfa clamps that were on old hose. I think I posted web site of company I got it from sometime ago. I have invoice in bag with spare hose I will post again next week. Here is info: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/showpost.php?p=306767&postcount=1

This time I used same 7.5 mm stuff which basically is correct SAE30R9 fuel injection high pressure that I did my Originale back in 1998 it is still going strong. Maybe I better go back and use a piece of that SAE30R10 hose. I have about a foot left in stock.

Either one seems to work OK but I am concerned with how this ethanol blend will affect fuel systems and hoses.

Gates hose info: http://www.gates.com/common/downloads/files/Gates/brochure/TechTipsForm.pdf and http://www.gates.com/europe/brochure.cfm?brochure=3014&location_id=2958
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
My current profession(s) is/are retired, Mr. Mom, Alfaholic and house remodeler but I spent a few years in Naval Aviation (about 42).
 

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I am going to be doing a PM on my fuel tank soon and went hunting again for the submersible fuel hose. After searching Gates' website again, I found that they list a part number now for 1 foot of the 30R10 hose and they listed O'Reilly's as the store to order Gates products from in my area. Gates Part #27093, 5/16" -1 ft. They had no trouble looking it up this way in the computer and they will have it on Tuesday. $24.00 a foot. :D Anything else I should order? I have the large round gasket already. Rubber buffer pad?
Charles
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)

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Excellent, thank you so much. I have the Ram to drive but, want to have minimal downtime. ;)
Charles
 

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A somewhat related questions guys. The fuel gauge in my S swings wildy by about a quarter to a half a tank under cornering and braking and when on hills when under a full tank. Since premium is $3.69 a gal here that is pretty often, My L does not do this at all. Do you think it may be the sending unit or float (if one is even used) ? Any thoughts appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sender is a float inside a cylinder with a coil spring sort of like a slinky toy if you can remember those.
 

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Oh yes, "slinky, a slinky a wonderful, wonderful toy".... The metal ones not the plastic ones that my niece grew up with. ;) The issue is when it's zooming all over the gauge I never know if I have a q tank or zero! Do you think it needs replacing? OK I know I should never let my tank run out but sometimes I'm searching for that elusive penny a gallon cheaper filling station... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If I drive my 5-speed hard with tank gauge showing about 1/4 to 1/3 I can get needle to drop to zero and yellow light to come on but normally it stays steady.

If normally it seems to do OK I would leave it alone.
 

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Parts heading my way and the nearly unobtainable submersible fuel hose in my hand from O'Reilly's. :D
Charles
 

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Good ole Gates Belts and Hoses! I was a DM for them for a while and they have a good bit of obscure pieces, boss was a jerk but the company was cool.
 

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I tried the O=ring trick, one thing I would tell people to use are ones that are gas-proof, AC o-rings can do this. I tried standard o-rings and when I went back to redo the job the regular rubber o-rings were melted from the fuel. Maybe its our california gas that does it
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Parts heading my way and the nearly unobtainable submersible fuel hose in my hand from O'Reilly's. :D
Charles
Good Find Chazzy, now be sure to reuse those special hose clamps holding old hose on tank cover to get a good tight fit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I tried the O=ring trick, one thing I would tell people to use are ones that are gas-proof, AC o-rings can do this. I tried standard o-rings and when I went back to redo the job the regular rubber o-rings were melted from the fuel. Maybe its our california gas that does it
I used the metal stato-seal washers with molded neoprene rubber this time. They should hold up OK. Got them from Home Depot.
 

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Not a completely wasted endeavor, this PM. Had a broken mounting strap tab on the basket and the pad was at the bottom of the tank and not attached to the basket. Short hose was original cloth covered one and was fine but it got replaced anyway. Not too much junk in the basket but it got cleaned out as well. One more thing soon to check off the list. ;) O, and the basket filter just pops out of the basket bowl, took me a little while to figure that out, kept trying to find a way to get to the screws. ;) Yes, and I never get rid of the original Oetinger style hose clamps whenever working on this car! ;) Everyone should obtain the tool to put those back on.
Charles
 
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