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Hi. Doing a re and re of the fan-door to deal with a "heat only" issue. Stepper motor worked and black lever moved manually but when I remove it all, the lever was broken. So, either it was broken within, which would explain the constant "heat on" position or I broke it when removing the blower an there is another issue. Guess I will know when I get it all back together. I will post pictures later as I am also retaping all of the wiring and cleaning up plus extending the drain tubes so they are closer to the drain holes. The one on the dr side looks as if it would cause the water to splash around the brake fluid resevoir and some of the harness connections, possibly leading to shorting issues.
So, I checked the air con evap door with direct 12 volts and switched so it opens and closes but while wiping dirt off the connector wires, the grey connector came off. Now I do not know which wire is on which post as the actual spades are the same. Any info would help. Pictures are included... then again, as the connector was loose and there had been work done on this by the PO as evidenced by the number of loosely connected fittings, perhaps the wires were reversed all along and the air con door was opening when it should've been cosing and vice versa? Maybe this caused the "heat only" issue?

Thanks and remmber to clear the drain holes of debris when doing this work or a good rain storm could cause issues with water splashing under the plastic cover.

Peter
Beeton.

P.S. Municipal elections up here are Monday. if you know anyone in New Tecumseth Ontario, tell em to vote for me!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
P.S. One wire is brown-white and other is orange. The connector is rounded at the top corners. I placed the wires back in but not sure if they are in right order and my wiring diagram does not show this info.

Thanks.
 

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Did you repair black lever or get another set of doors with good lever?

When you put blower motor housing and door assembly back in and lock in place test black lever manually before you hook control cable back to it to be sure doors open and close as sometimes they will jam and you need to unlock housing again from metal latches and reposition. Then test agiain to be sure.

As for recirulation door motor wire connector, the brown-white wire goes in front pin hole towards front of car and orange-white wire goes in the back towards passenger compartment. That is with rounded part of connector on top.

Looks like that is how you have them in your picture.
 

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Thanks Steve.

I repaired the lever as accessing a used one would take some time and \I want to get it together and packed for the season.
I repaired the door-lever as follows: Used model glue to join lever to door. Model glue works well as it melts the plastic together whereas crazy glue does not bind. Once dry, I drilled through the side of the lever and into the door housing. 1/8 or so. I drilled in about 1.5 inches and inserted a very narrow head screw in, slowly inserting and removing to be sure the threads cut in without stressing the plastic door. There you have it. Tested the motor on the bench and re installed into the car.

The foam was in pretty good shape and \I did glue a small patch to the outside of one corner to close a gap. Used a hot glue gun for that as other glues have strong solvents that would have melted the foam.

Pictures to follow shortly.

Regards

peter B.
 

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Thanks Steve.

I repaired the lever as accessing a used one would take some time and \I want to get it together and packed for the season.
I repaired the door-lever as follows: Used model glue to join lever to door. Model glue works well as it melts the plastic together whereas crazy glue does not bind. Once dry, I drilled through the side of the lever and into the door housing. 1/8 or so. I drilled in about 1.5 inches and inserted a very narrow head screw in, slowly inserting and removing to be sure the threads cut in without stressing the plastic door. There you have it. Tested the motor on the bench and re installed into the car.

The foam was in pretty good shape and \I did glue a small patch to the outside of one corner to close a gap. Used a hot glue gun for that as other glues have strong solvents that would have melted the foam.

Pictures to follow shortly.

Regards

peter B.
Did you test lever manually after housing back in car to be sure lever moves freely?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Checked many, many times. Also drilled small hole into lever nib and installed cotter pin for easy removal. Silver rod moves in and out. Lever moves in and oit manually. Removed to check somethng (get easier access to wiring and to clean out drain holes) and checked again. Re installed and checked movement again. Fingers are crossed but I cannot re check fan operation at dash without connecting all of the wiring first hence the first request for info. Hope to have the air con box in later and will report the results plus add a few images.

Thanks all.
 
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