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1991 Alfa Spider Veloce
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The light is on. What’s next?
First read this excellent post right here;
Anybody have the old posting on reseting the airbag...
Now armed with knowledge, follow me on a journey to resolve the SRS problems.

I never knew there was a problem with the system until I replaced the bulb in the instrument cluster.
The light was on and driving me nuts. Initially I thought there were 2 codes present but on the follow up I could see 3; 26, 36 and 42. No, I could not reset them. Here comes the very important detail, connect your battery maintainer as you are working with the system. Any voltage fluctuations while in communication with the SRS module may and will negatively affect the outcome!

Personally I found keeping track of exact time frames (reset) and blindly placing the connector on the pins a bit challenging. I was also concerned of touching something that I was not supposed to and in turn cause another problem. Long story short, I connected a temporary switch to the pins so I wouldn’t have to turn around. This way I was able to pay closer attention to the blinking light and the seconds hand on the clock. Simple yet so helpful.

1647466



1647467



Problem #1
Missing bulb.
Easy fix, problem already corrected while refurbishing the instrument cluster.

Problem #2
The sensor

1647468


1647469


As you can see there were several issues. After resolving them and cleaning it all up the sensor works like new.

1647470


I had it completely removed to clean the bed and the connector. I used small amount of dielectrics grease on the connector after cleaning.
Please don’t comment on the tape. I can only do one thing at a time. A/C is too big of a project for now.

Problem #3
The squib.
There isn’t much we can do here but hope that the fault will reset.
This part is not fixable and the whole air bag would have to be replaced if we are unsuccessful.

Reset

Following the procedure outlined in the linked post I was able to clear the codes on the first attempt.
:D
 

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I recently purchased a 1994 spider that of course has an airbag. My concern is the reliability of a 26 year old air bag. Concerned about it prematurely going off sometime while I am driving. Especially if it is a Takata airbag that was subject to millions of recalls. I am seriously considering removing the airbag unit. However, I will first talk to my insurance company. Doubt that new replacements are available. If anyone else has info on this would appreciate hearing from them.




The light is on. What’s next?
First read this excellent post right here;
Anybody have the old posting on reseting the airbag...
Now armed with knowledge, follow me on a journey to resolve the SRS problems.

I never knew there was a problem with the system until I replaced the bulb in the instrument cluster.
The light was on and driving me nuts. Initially I thought there were 2 codes present but on the follow up I could see 3; 26, 36 and 42. No, I could not reset them. Here comes the very important detail, connect your battery maintainer as you are working with the system. Any voltage fluctuations while in communication with the SRS module may and will negatively affect the outcome!

Personally I found keeping track of exact time frames (reset) and blindly placing the connector on the pins a bit challenging. I was also concerned of touching something that I was not supposed to and in turn cause another problem. Long story short, I connected a temporary switch to the pins so I wouldn’t have to turn around. This way I was able to pay closer attention to the blinking light and the seconds hand on the clock. Simple yet so helpful.

View attachment 1647466


View attachment 1647467


Problem #1
Missing bulb.
Easy fix, problem already corrected while refurbishing the instrument cluster.

Problem #2
The sensor

View attachment 1647468

View attachment 1647469

As you can see there were several issues. After resolving them and cleaning it all up the sensor works like new.

View attachment 1647470

I had it completely removed to clean the bed and the connector. I used small amount of dielectrics grease on the connector after cleaning.
Please don’t comment on the tape. I can only do one thing at a time. A/C is too big of a project for now.

Problem #3
The squib.
There isn’t much we can do here but hope that the fault will reset.
This part is not fixable and the whole air bag would have to be replaced if we are unsuccessful.

Reset

Following the procedure outlined in the linked post I was able to clear the codes on the first attempt.
:D
The light is on. What’s next?
First read this excellent post right here;
Anybody have the old posting on reseting the airbag...
Now armed with knowledge, follow me on a journey to resolve the SRS problems.

I never knew there was a problem with the system until I replaced the bulb in the instrument cluster.
The light was on and driving me nuts. Initially I thought there were 2 codes present but on the follow up I could see 3; 26, 36 and 42. No, I could not reset them. Here comes the very important detail, connect your battery maintainer as you are working with the system. Any voltage fluctuations while in communication with the SRS module may and will negatively affect the outcome!

Personally I found keeping track of exact time frames (reset) and blindly placing the connector on the pins a bit challenging. I was also concerned of touching something that I was not supposed to and in turn cause another problem. Long story short, I connected a temporary switch to the pins so I wouldn’t have to turn around. This way I was able to pay closer attention to the blinking light and the seconds hand on the clock. Simple yet so helpful.

View attachment 1647466


View attachment 1647467


Problem #1
Missing bulb.
Easy fix, problem already corrected while refurbishing the instrument cluster.

Problem #2
The sensor

View attachment 1647468

View attachment 1647469

As you can see there were several issues. After resolving them and cleaning it all up the sensor works like new.

View attachment 1647470

I had it completely removed to clean the bed and the connector. I used small amount of dielectrics grease on the connector after cleaning.
Please don’t comment on the tape. I can only do one thing at a time. A/C is too big of a project for now.

Problem #3
The squib.
There isn’t much we can do here but hope that the fault will reset.
This part is not fixable and the whole air bag would have to be replaced if we are unsuccessful.

Reset

Following the procedure outlined in the linked post I was able to clear the codes on the first attempt.
:D
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
Joined
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12,589 Posts
It's not a Takata airbag and doesn't have the same sort of problems. It's an older unit that uses sodium azide. Takata sold bags starting in the 2000s that use ammonium nitrate as an attempt at cost savings. It's cheaper but unstable, hence the explosion problems.

Newer airbags are unfortunately not available AFAIK. My understanding based on testing of old airbags is that they work for a surprisingly long time, and if they don't work the failure mode is just not inflating as hard as they should. That said, if you want to disable the system you can do so by unplugging the three plugs to the orange box behind the driver's seat and taping off the connectors. You can also get an adapter to fit a non-airbag steering wheel to an S4.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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6,574 Posts
You test the airbag system every ten years. By introducing a fault in the system. Thats assuming the air bag lights comes on when you turn the key then goes out.

Just unplug a front sensor and turn the key on. Then back off. This will set a fault code. Clear the code. If the light goes back to coming on with the key then going back off and staying off. Then the system is functioning and will deploy in an accident.

Its a good system. Same system that Porsche, BMW, and Mercedes used at the time.
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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6,574 Posts
Problem #3
The squib.
There isn’t much we can do here but hope that the fault will reset.
This part is not fixable and the whole air bag would have to be replaced if we are unsuccessful.
Its rarely the squib. Its usually the clock spring behind the steering wheel.

It can be tested by putting a resistor in place of the squib. Clear the fault codes and go for a drive. If the squib code comes back its the clock spring. If it doesn't its the squib.
 
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