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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone know of, or has converted to an aftermarket fuel tank level sensor and gauge? I have a gravity fed tank with the outlet on the bottom, so I am not interested in the Alfa ones with the tube coming out the top, which seems to be the only ones available now. I have flakey readings and so the resistor is probably worn out by now.

The biggest issue I see when I search sources online is most of them have a 5 hole plate to mount to the tank and the Alfas have 6 hole. Has anyone dealt with that? Can the plates be cut out and swapped?

Thanks,
 

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Can you not make an adapter ring 6 countersunk holes to bolt to the fuel tank and 5 tapped holes to bolt the gauge down
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Does anyone know of, or has converted to an aftermarket fuel tank level sensor and gauge? I have a gravity fed tank with the outlet on the bottom, so I am not interested in the Alfa ones with the tube coming out the top, which seems to be the only ones available now. I have flakey readings and so the resistor is probably worn out by now.
Why not just plug the tube? I bought an aftermarket 101 sender from Centerline years ago and that's what they'd done.

I'd just tap the top portion of the tube and put a bolt in with some thread sealant.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I have read about plugging the hole. I am not ready for that approach. I would like a different approach.

I would like to see if anyone has used a different level and gauge, like VDO or something. I would like to adapt the mounting flange like suggested. So if no one has actually done it before, I would be trying it out myself.

Hence my question. I have to believe someone else has felt they wanted to use another brand of level/gauge.

Thanks.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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Your call, but I'm pretty confident you'll have more luck sealing the tube than modifying the flange and getting that to seal. You...uh...don't smoke, do you? 😆

In all seriousness the top draw sender I got from Classic Alfa worked very well with the stock gauge in my '74 GTV. I coupled it with my Award Winning, Patent-Pending Gubi Anti-Slosh Circuit and the needle has been both accurate and stable.

 

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I am in your shoes and just ordered one from China on ebay. It is 6" tall, stainless and the float goes up and down on the tube. It is a 5 hole but when I get it I am going to drill the aluminum base and make it a 6 hole for the alfa. It comes with the gauge but I asked the guy to calibrate it specially for me which I hope to use the stock alfa gauge but we shall see. If not not I will use the gauge that came with the sender that has a black face and chrome trim so it is not too far off except for the needle color which I may change.
 

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...I have flakey readings and so the resistor is probably worn out by now.
something to consider when making your decision on an alternate sender...
 

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Stefano, You can probably buy a generic fuel sender and cut the float arm length to match the unit you have in your tank. All you’ll need to do is find something with matching resistance at the full and empty positions, and with a 6 hole top mount. So just measure the resistance of your existing sender and search various vendors for a sender with matching specs.
 

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I looked into this a little while ago. I will also need a NLA replacement sender for a Spica car. The problem here is that the calibration of the Jaeger fuel gages that most of our cars are fitted with is non-standard. What I have measured is 8 ohms low, 84 ohms full - nominal 0-90 ohms. This is reverse of the most popular calibration.

Maybe, just maybe, you could purchase a 90-0 sender and flip the arm on the other side.

Then there is the issue of the flange. I found adapter flanges for the 5 hole senders, but again Alfa's 6 bolt pattern is non standard. Best idea would have been to purchase a 5 hole weld flange and drill the 6 holes into it, but the bolt circles are too close for comfort (5 holes 54 mm vs Alfa 60 mm).

And in all cases, you would loose the low level light signal. VDO has one that provides that signal, but again wrong calibrations.

I gave up.
 

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Match a sender to the Jaeger gauge with this?
 

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That's a nice device... noting the anti-slosh and no level features... but the whole installation will become rather expensive!

Another idea I had, as I'm not comfortable either about having the later sender with the plugged tube, would be to purchase a new Alfa sender and graft the new resistor assembly to my old sender head.
 

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Getting a bit off topic, but curious why plugging the tube is of concern. I would assume that if it’s not needed, the GTV was SPICA and is now converted to carbs so the tube is not needed for the fuel return. I would also assume that the vapor recovery parts that were connected to the tank filler may have been discarded or plugged off in some fashion. In that case, what is the harm in plugging off one more connection at the sender with a suitable fuel hose, metal plug and hose clamps? This seems like the simplest and most cost effective solution.

If the vent connections at the filler neck are plugged off, there is still some need to vent the tank (to prevent over-pressure) and to breath the tank (to break vacuum as fuel is drawn from the tank). Depending on the gas cap, the connection at the sender could be used for this purpose, with a proper breather/vent valve. But the connection at the filler neck is better suited for this purpose.
 

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The Spica system sucks fuel from the bottom of the tank - the tank itself is specific. The sender mounting plate is blank. I can't speak for Stefano, but in my case not wanting a plugged tube is purely about originality.

DISREGARD WAHT FOLLOWS. SEE OTHER POST BELOW.

This said, I may have mislead you.

What I have measured is 8 ohms low, 84 ohms full - nominal 0-90 ohms. This is reverse of the most popular calibration.
I've just checked a few sources, and 0-90 is a very popular calibration. I don't remember how I arrived at the opposite conclusion. I just made a measurement of the sender on the car, and with an almost full tank, the reading is 87 ohm.

The best match I have is VDO 226 164 which is the only one I'd found that has the low level signal. It has a plastic flange with elongated holes, Installing it would need an adapter plate. The best deal I'd found for a weld flange was Aliexpress - $10.

If you're ready to forego the low level light, there is a wide range of identical looking senders such as VDO 226 008. These have a flat steel top plate with the 5 holes. It looks like this plate could be disassembled from the sender and substituted with another one with a different hole pattern . Making a flat steel circle with 6 holes is not such a challenge.

What we need is to confirm once and for all the resistance values of these Jaeger senders.
 

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The Spica system sucks fuel from the bottom of the tank - the tank itself is specific. The sender mounting plate is blank. I can't speak for Stefano, but in my case not wanting a plugged tube is purely about originality.
Yves, Yes, I’m very aware the SPICA tank has a bottom fuel connection and a return at the top sender. Stefano has a SPICA tank, but has no need for the fuel return connection at the sender, hence his search for an alternate without the top hose/return/draw connection. Since his car has (one would assume) been converted to carbs, (again, one would assume) originality isn’t an issue, but what do I know...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Several good suggestions here. Nice find with the VDO sender, Yves. Summit sells them for $35. I was looking at the VDO website yesterday and did not see that. I don't know why I can't find things on websites that other people find. My webbing skills are declining.

Certainly the easiest route is the sender and plugging the tube. Another thing to consider is you would have to hack off the top tube if you want the cover to fit over the unit.

All of these senders never mention the diameter of that flange. Is that some sort of standard with fuel senders?
And yes, getting to the bottom of what resistance each Alfa gauge needs is necessary. I have a 74GTV with the two (fuel & temp) gauges in the upper center of the pod. I do not know the brand. Are those Jaeger? I suppose I can get a 100 ohm resistor (or a variable resistor) and check how the gauge behaves.

Keep us posted on the flange modification, zedsn.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm asking the Free classified section for anyone with an old dead one I can take apart or at least use the flange.
 

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Certainly the easiest route is the sender and plugging the tube. Another thing to consider is you would have to hack off the top tube if you want the cover to fit over the unit.
That is true... you could consider making a custom cover to fit over the sender. Just use your OEM cover as a template to cut some sheet aluminum and use expanding foam sealant to fill in the void between it and the tank... the sheet aluminum and fuel tank will be your mold, with the tank properly masked off of course... clean and trim off the excess and there you have it. No one would know the difference and you can keep the original cover unscathed.
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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The '74 GTV would be Jaeger. I don't recall the resistance range, sorry. The Classic Alfa FL003 worked perfectly with the gauge for me but I'm not sure what tank you have: I've got the 55l carb car fuel tank also sold by Classic Alfa. Not sure what foam cover you have, but the cover I have is designed to fit over the tube in the top of the sender. Or you could just get a new one, that's RB138.

With the anti-slosh device in place it reads accurately and is quite steady.
 
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