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What brand of oil filter is that?
COMIT is cast on it. I would assume that depending on which filters are used ...the stickers (or marking in the case of the OE) will be different. Funny that out of all the duplicate stickers I acquired over the years...I have none for this filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,565
Why is the water pump pulley so deep?
That's what was fitted to the engine originally and is used to space out the deeper fan blade that is fitted to the US models. Even though I can't seem to locate it as a seperate part# in the US part catalogue...it maybe part of the fan blade as an assembly?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,567
I´ve seen this spacer also in a Spider mk2 witk monofarfale spica injection, but in this case was to clear the cranck poely due to having A/C system fitted, the compresor is a Sandem one
That makes sense....I suppose that if I were to not use the aluminum spacer, the fan would still fit on the pulley properly. The spacer does move the fan further forward and into the radiator shroud ...which may be better for cooling when the car is not moving. Either way I'll see how things fit when the engine and radiator are re-installed.
 

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COMIT is cast on it. I would assume that depending on which filters are used ...the stickers (or marking in the case of the OE) will be different. Funny that out of all the duplicate stickers I acquired over the years...I have none for this filter.
I had two printed and I have one left. I do not know when I will have some more printed, but hopefully before you finish. :x

It's a water slide decal which will need to be clear coated.
 

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I feel I reached a mini milestone on the engine build. About 10 years ago I was disassembling the bottom end of the engine....


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..after today's activities.....good thorough cleaning....and yet more hardware plating....

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.....I am declaring the bottom end as completed!....:smile2: But I do need to install the rear main seal and flywheel and complete the torquing of that large pulley nut....(this is where I wish I had build a proper ALFA engine stand that allows full access to the back of the engine)....Instead of going with this cheapo generic one.
 

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Cylinder Head Rebuild

I started the cylinder head rebuild a few months ago while multi tasking on the engine block and crankshaft work. Cleaning was the first obvious chore at hand......commencing with degrease and wash.

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What was left was the usual carbon build-up around the valve seats and inside the ports.

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The valve deposits were unreal....probably about 1/8" thick of caked on carbon on both sides......

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After thoroughly sealing & duct taping out all the water passage openings and all oil passage openings...off to the blast cabinet went the head for some bead blasting. That was the only way to get that carbon completely off.

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Next...careful measurements of the valves & valve guide bores were taken. Amazingly the exhaust valves were within spec, but the exhaust guides were totally way out of spec by at least .010" over .....probably explains why so much oil was being deposited on the exhaust valve heads.

On the intake valve side...all the guides were within spec....but the intake valves were badly pitted at the seat contact areas. So an order for 4 new intake valves and 4 new exhaust valve guides was placed...along with a full complement of gaskets and seals all around.
 

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After removing the bad exhaust valve guides....the new ones were ready to go in. I will be installing oil seals on the exhaust guides as well hence the difference with the original non-seal ones. Getting the guides out was a bit of a task...but it just took many repeated small amplitude blows with a 3 lb hammer (I was afraid of mushrooming the guide if a heavy blow was applied to them)....it was good work-out I'll tell you.

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The exhaust valves I bed blasted then polished them out a little bit by chucking them in the lathe and using wet sand paper.

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The head was sent out to have .006" machined off since the surface was lightly pitted and corroded. The valve seats were also re-faced and lapped.

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Which brings me to this week's work....re-installing all the valves, springs and oil seals then using the recommended factory method for checking the sealing at the valve faces. Which entails filling the chambers with white spirits or varsol and blowing compressed air from the port side and on the back of the valve heads....then looking for air bubbles.

Sure enough, only 2 valves were not leaking.....the other 6 were leaking ...so I will have to lap some more...:frown2:

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With cylinder head finally completed (had to perform a few more lapping operations to get the valves to seat and seal once and for all).....the time has come to finally install it on the the engine.

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I ordered a set (or two) of Jon Norman's brass connectors for the oil passages to the head....

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Thankfully they fit perfectly without needing to open up any of the holes. Moreover, the o-rings that came with his kit fit perfectly with the Reinz head gasket as well. I did not apply any additional sealant anywhere as it seems that the head gasket already has some form of adhesive applied all around which I assume will adhere and seal fully once the head gets up to operating temperature....at least I hope this is how it works.

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One thing that is of concern (not sure if it is warranted or not)...is that the water passages on the intake side seem to be partially blocked by the head gasket. Is this going to create any cooling issues with the head I wonder?

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Discussion Starter #1,575
With the head ready to be installed. Other work completed was the full rebuild of the intake system. As it came off the engine this thing was in a totally unusable state.

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After stripping the manifold bare....I had the casting water jet blasted. These castings for some reason are always rough and darkened from oil and oxidation but after blasing....I was amazed at how well it came out. Even though that was done months ago...the aluminum still looks the same today....now if only it would last like this forever.

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The throttle bodies I first supported by McGivering up a support system to keep them nice and solid.

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I was then able to disassembled them by carefully knocking out the spring pins on the ends of the shafts with a small diameter drift. The opposite side was supported against a slotted backing plate.

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Discussion Starter #1,576 (Edited)
With bodies all apart...I zinc plated all the tubes, screws and springs ...bead blasted the bodies and buffed them out with 000 steel wool...and powder coated the levers.

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The only thing left is to replace the screws holding the butterflies to the shafts.

I ordered the 4mm screws from McM Carr...but am not totally happy with them. The heads are not just too big at 7,5 mm but the head angle is wrong at 90 degrees. When compared to the originals....the angle should be more like 55-60 degrees....I'll mull over these for a bit to see if a better option is available.
 

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Here's the McMCarr screw on the right w/90 degree x 7.5mm wide head...compare to the OE screw on the left w/55-60 degree x 6mm wide head. Does anyone know the closest DIN spec for the OE screw? It might be 964 but I'd like to pin it down exactly.....with the hope of sourcing the correct one.
 

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