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I see it now in post # 1486. Black painted sheet metal inside the rubber. That is all I remember in my car.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,502
Don't recall those in any of the GTVs I have had. But it has been a while since I worked on rear springs. The rear spacers look like they are essential, not like the front spacers at all. Any images of original rear spacers? That may jog my memory!
..check out the link to CA spacers in post # 1496...
 

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1494 has the ones that are in my car. The other 11.5mm will raise the back an inch. Yes, no, otherwise??
 

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Discussion Starter #1,504
1494 has the ones that are in my car. The other 11.5mm will raise the back an inch. Yes, no, otherwise??
Don't know yet. I don't have the any of the spacers so I'm not sure they if they sit inside the thin sheet metal spring pan or not. I won't fit any spacer at this point until I see the car's stance once completed and on the ground...stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,507
Transmission Refurb

I’m either getting too lazy or too busy to post updates of this resto…but I have been going at the engine and transmission all at once and things are finally (slowly) coming together on these mechanicals.
For the transmission:
-replaced the first gear synchro internals with good internals from a fifth gear synchro (taken from a spare tranny that I picked up last fall). I used the exact technique outlined in the thread “first gear fix”
-replaced badly worn first and second dog gears with a good 4th and 5th gear dog gear…(taken from spare tranny). One thing I learned on this exercise is how not to remove a dog ring. Namely, do not use the snap ring during removal…with a gear splitter (as shown below).

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If you do (as I did the first time) the ring will act as a lever against the dog ring groove flange which will ultimately crack the flange as load is applied. Luckily I decided to test this out on the worn out ring first

IMG_4170.jpg

After this fail…I decided to locate the splitter directly in the groove….which did the trick. But it sure gets a little iffy…..pressure is applied and no visible movement takes place…then Bang!...it breaks away and starts to move. The fit between the dog and the gear itself is amazingly precise.

03.jpg
IMG_4181.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #1,508
cont'd ....I replaced worn out synchro rings with good synchro rings (from spare tranny)

-replaced all three synchro sleeves with NOS ones. Quite possibly some of the original ones might have been OK….but since I had new ones anyways…why not.

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-replaced the front and rear shaft seals and shift fork o-rings

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I measured all the gear bushing i.d.’s and found all to be within the upper limit of the spec. Initially I was contemplating replacing all of them with new bronze bushings but after reading some not so positive threads outlining problems experienced with changing these out….I decided to keep these as is for now…the tranny may be a little loose compared to a new one…but we’ll see…I hope it’ll be fine.

-I rewired the back-up light switch…fresh terminals, wire and terminal covers….

07.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #1,509
So it’s 99% complete….but I do need to finish the back-up light switch wiring…like crimping on end the terminals and terminal covers.

10.jpg

It’s fun looking back at the original condition of the transmission I started out with…

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Discussion Starter #1,513 (Edited)
Engine Rebuild

Engine work has finally commenced....(actually started this months ago). To kick things off...I asked fellow Alfabber Superfab if he could drill the block for 5 main bearing oiling....and he graciously did.

IMG_4305.jpg

I still need to install the plug screws....and it'll be ready to go.

IMG_4306.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #1,514
One of the nuisance issues I had with the block were the oil pins that had previously been installed and that were in a few cases now flush to the top of the block. I was able to remove a few by tapping a 4mm thread into the pin and extracting with a bolt. However this method I would not recommend (even though it worked for me on 4 pins)...the pin is made of hardened steel and I broke 2 taps on the other 2 pins...so I stopped while i was ahead. I read in another AlfaBB thread (on this very topic) that a very effective tool can be easily made from a thin bar of steel (I fashioned one up from a barbeque skewer) as shown below. The one shown was used to extract 4 pins so it is a little bit distorted and damaged in this photo. The beauty of this tool is that it was able to reach deeper into the oiling hole where a few pins were pushed farther down the hole and additional ones were installed on top of these.

IMG_4309.jpg

I also had the flywheel resurfaced...at Gordon Bush Performance.

IMG_4072.jpg

...more to come....
 

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Discussion Starter #1,515
machining work..cont'd...

The original crankshaft was quite badly scored on the con rod journals. It needed to be reground 0.010" under on all the mains and rod end journals.

IMG_4065.jpg

Canada Chrome and Crankshaft completed the work they also feathered out the oiling holes a little bit (not sure if it does a whole lot). Installed new bearings all around and looking good.

. IMG_4311.jpg
 

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Can I send you my block for cleaning?

How'd you do that?
Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #1,519
Cleaning wise....varsol wash & scrub with plastic bristle brushes...followed by citrus orange de-greasing cleaning agent which is sold as ZEP industrial brand up here. It works a charm to brighten up the aluminum, break down the oil, varsol and grease and break down the calcium deposits on the walls of block around the head studs. Followed that with a hot water rinse. Repeated this a few times. A lot of shops offer a cleaning service for this...cost I was quoted was around $100 for this. The Factory workshop manual recommends a hot sodium bicarbonate wash.

Balancing ....of course....I sent out the crank, pulley, flywheel, clutch , pistons & pins and rods to get balanced. I'm using the services of D.Garland & Sons balancing ...hope to get these back by end of the week.
 
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