Thanks for that....another confirmation and one that seems to match the Parts manual.Here is a pic of my alternator. Not restored, and out of a june 1969 1750 GTV delivered new in Sweden
It is possible Pete that this was the case....but I'm not so sure now. Plus I do like to stay with what the Parts manuals shows to be correct. As for the stamped sheet fan...these don't seem to have any part numbers on them so will have to go with photo identification....It is possible Rossano (1750GT) that your alternator and fan are original to your car and the older style fan was used. .... So if you can prove or are comfortable with that alternator being original to your car I would stick with that fan, but if you can't then all you can do is go by what others are saying (and if so, you now need Alfamallorca to remove their fan to see if there are Bosch part numbers or get a full view of it so you can track down the "correct" one).....
Thank you Brian. I tried entering the Bosch p/n's for the 2 cast aluminum fans but no hits resulted. The Euro fan p/n (1 126 610 008) did result in a bunch of hits....but I need to close this item out from my list of open tasks...so I've decided to go with the fan from the MTL alternator (p/n 1 126 0610 025) as it sure seems identical to the ones that have been posted up. Last night I plated the pulley and hardware and finished things off with this component.Rossano,
I found some sort of cross reference on the Bosch website. Click the link below...
I've been using the Caswell zinc system for number of years now and the parts I've plated have turned out beyond my expectations. Mind you initially I was having issues related to insufficient or inadequate cleaning and preparation work but now hardly ever. The parts I've plated haven't really been tested at all with the elements since the car has been in the garage for a decade now. The caswell system may seem expensive at first...but when you consider than the formulations have been vetted and tested and one doesn't need to experiment with this.....it is a time saver in the end. The chromate colors come in blue, yellow dichromate and black. Yellow Dichromate has been the best in terms of consistent coloration.....with the Blue next and black the least. On all the hardware I've plated to date...blistering has occurred on 2 occasions only so far.what plating system do you use and how long does the plating last before any pitting or rust shows up through the finish? i love the finish you are getting on the refurbished items ,,mac
Mac Mclaren, make sure you purchase a variable current power supply. That is the key. I bought the Caswell system and tried to do it without being able to vary the current supply and as I'm not an electrician (even though I have done an electrical engineering paper at Uni ... too long ago) I was unable to get the results like 1750GT (Rossano). Sometimes I waste money trying to save money ... sigh.thank you ..i have found a supplier in Australia that cansupply and ship to nz at reasonable price the caswell system ,,must give it a try ,,the results look great
Correct....initially I bought a 5 AMP variable current/voltage power supply and it worked nicely for the small hardware. But for larger bits like the brake calipers 10 AMPs is required so I purchased a second larger unit. These were purchased off flea BAY. The recommended current required to plate is min. 0.14 amps per sq.in of surface area....Caswell spells all this out in their manual.Mac Mclaren, make sure you purchase a variable current power supply. That is the key.
Indeed....hydrogen embrittlement is a possibility and for any critical component ....one has to bake the parts right after plating so as drive off the hydrogen gas produced during plating before it migrates into the metal itself....BTW I found hydrochloric acid a really good and quick way to clean steel items for plating ... be careful though.
Is this only for those parts cleaned with acid?Indeed....hydrogen embrittlement is a possibility and for any critical component ....one has to bake the parts right after plating so as drive off the hydrogen gas produced during plating before it migrates into the metal itself.
As far as I know. It's the chemical reaction between the acid (sulphuric seems more active than hydrochloric) that results in hydrogen as a by product. There are a few good metal finishing forums than provide more information and expertise. Check out this site ...Is this only for those parts cleaned with acid?
As far as I know. It's the chemical reaction between the acid (sulphuric seems more active than hydrochloric) that results in hydrogen as a by product. There are a few good metal finishing forums than provide more information and expertise. Check out this site ...
I've seen that one, that was so funny :lol:Ok, got it. I've seen folks who make a DIY parts cleaner that uses kitty litter to remove the rust. It seems to do a good job without leaving marks. The parts come out fairly shiny and ready for plating.