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I can see the debate at the concours lawn now :D

It is possible Rossano (1750GT) that your alternator and fan are original to your car and the older style fan was used. We are talking Alfa Romeo here, and your 1750 is a Series I so there is a possibility they would have used whatever alternators they had in stock until the updated Bosch ones started arriving*. So if you can prove or are comfortable with that alternator being original to your car I would stick with that fan, but if you can't then all you can do is go by what others are saying (and if so, you now need Alfamallorca to remove their fan to see if there are Bosch part numbers or get a full view of it so you can track down the "correct" one)

Pete
* Note the end of the Series II 1750's have the large tail lights and rear panel, so one cannot follow a large tail lighted GTV and turn to your passenger and have a bet for $10k that it is a 2000 :)
 

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Here is a pic of my alternator. Not restored, and out of a june 1969 1750 GTV delivered new in Sweden
Thanks for that....another confirmation and one that seems to match the Parts manual.


...It is possible Rossano (1750GT) that your alternator and fan are original to your car and the older style fan was used. .... So if you can prove or are comfortable with that alternator being original to your car I would stick with that fan, but if you can't then all you can do is go by what others are saying (and if so, you now need Alfamallorca to remove their fan to see if there are Bosch part numbers or get a full view of it so you can track down the "correct" one)..... :)
It is possible Pete that this was the case....but I'm not so sure now. Plus I do like to stay with what the Parts manuals shows to be correct. As for the stamped sheet fan...these don't seem to have any part numbers on them so will have to go with photo identification.

I'll be keeping a lookout for this fan style as well as for another pulley........what's a few more small pieces to the puzzle.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,465
Rossano,

I found some sort of cross reference on the Bosch website. Click the link below...
Thank you Brian. I tried entering the Bosch p/n's for the 2 cast aluminum fans but no hits resulted. The Euro fan p/n (1 126 610 008) did result in a bunch of hits....but I need to close this item out from my list of open tasks...so I've decided to go with the fan from the MTL alternator (p/n 1 126 0610 025) as it sure seems identical to the ones that have been posted up. Last night I plated the pulley and hardware and finished things off with this component.

IMG_2417.jpg

The next item that I will pick-up where I left off will be the differential and rear axle.
 

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what plating system do you use and how long does the plating last before any pitting or rust shows up through the finish? i love the finish you are getting on the refurbished items ,,mac
 

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what plating system do you use and how long does the plating last before any pitting or rust shows up through the finish? i love the finish you are getting on the refurbished items ,,mac
I've been using the Caswell zinc system for number of years now and the parts I've plated have turned out beyond my expectations. Mind you initially I was having issues related to insufficient or inadequate cleaning and preparation work but now hardly ever. The parts I've plated haven't really been tested at all with the elements since the car has been in the garage for a decade now. The caswell system may seem expensive at first...but when you consider than the formulations have been vetted and tested and one doesn't need to experiment with this.....it is a time saver in the end. The chromate colors come in blue, yellow dichromate and black. Yellow Dichromate has been the best in terms of consistent coloration.....with the Blue next and black the least. On all the hardware I've plated to date...blistering has occurred on 2 occasions only so far.
 

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thank you ..i have found a supplier in Australia that cansupply and ship to nz at reasonable price the caswell system ,,must give it a try ,,the results look great
 

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thank you ..i have found a supplier in Australia that cansupply and ship to nz at reasonable price the caswell system ,,must give it a try ,,the results look great
Mac Mclaren, make sure you purchase a variable current power supply. That is the key. I bought the Caswell system and tried to do it without being able to vary the current supply and as I'm not an electrician (even though I have done an electrical engineering paper at Uni ... too long ago) I was unable to get the results like 1750GT (Rossano). Sometimes I waste money trying to save money ... sigh.

BTW I found hydrochloric acid a really good and quick way to clean steel items for plating ... be careful though.

When I get to reassembly time I will set up the Caswell system again with a proper power supply :)
Pete
 

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Mac Mclaren, make sure you purchase a variable current power supply. That is the key.
Correct....initially I bought a 5 AMP variable current/voltage power supply and it worked nicely for the small hardware. But for larger bits like the brake calipers 10 AMPs is required so I purchased a second larger unit. These were purchased off flea BAY. The recommended current required to plate is min. 0.14 amps per sq.in of surface area....Caswell spells all this out in their manual.

...BTW I found hydrochloric acid a really good and quick way to clean steel items for plating ... be careful though.
Indeed....hydrogen embrittlement is a possibility and for any critical component ....one has to bake the parts right after plating so as drive off the hydrogen gas produced during plating before it migrates into the metal itself.
 

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Is this only for those parts cleaned with acid?
As far as I know. It's the chemical reaction between the acid (sulphuric seems more active than hydrochloric) that results in hydrogen as a by product. There are a few good metal finishing forums than provide more information and expertise. Check out this site ...

https://www.finishing.com/12/16.shtml
 

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As far as I know. It's the chemical reaction between the acid (sulphuric seems more active than hydrochloric) that results in hydrogen as a by product. There are a few good metal finishing forums than provide more information and expertise. Check out this site ...

https://www.finishing.com/12/16.shtml

Ok, got it. I've seen folks who make a DIY parts cleaner that uses kitty litter to remove the rust. It seems to do a good job without leaving marks. The parts come out fairly shiny and ready for plating.
 

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Been busy the past few weeks (or was that months?) with refurbishing the differential (will post progress on that later)....and finally completed the gas tank as well. The fuel level indicator for the fuel injected cars seems is different than the carburetted cars and is no available from the suppliers...so time was spent on restoring the original one. It's surprising how much fuel varnish was built up inside this tank....

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...also surprised that the top was so corroded...

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...so disassembly...bead cleaning and replating....went rather quickly...

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..reassembled with new gaskets....but used screws instead of rivets...didn't want to split the plastic pieces and the rubber o-rings that seal the penetrations for the electrical connectors......

05.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #1,479 (Edited)
Gas tank installed

IMG_3393.jpg

I may have mentioned in some earlier posts that I had the gas tank hot tank acid cleaned which was a waste of money in the end. Not only did all the solder joints disappear....but the brass plug was lost as well. This created a lot more work (and delays as well) in having to re-solder the joints ....and having to source that dang plug. I sealed the tank with the Por 15 sealing kit, painted the upper surface black and the lower silver.

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The fuel filler boot was another one of those "I hope I never have to do that again" jobs(very difficult).I think I battled with that for at least an hour ....my hands will probably be sore for days.

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But I'm thrilled it's finally back in it's right place!..:smile2:..

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I also shortened the neck by 3/4" which probably could have been cut down a tad more....to 1". Getting the tank in without scratching it here and there a little is almost impossible....I'll have to get the touch up paint out to tidy it up a bit.

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