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Hi Rossano,

Great thread - very informative and it has re-invigorated me to begin tackling my 1750 shell's body work!

I had a question about your metal prep and painting of repair sections - I noticed many of them you would either epoxy prime or POR-15 before welding back on (the front wiper motor cover thingy for example). How did you prepare the weld areas, did you remove the coating in this area first? If so, how much did you remove back from the weld area? This is something I have thought about doing but have been unsure of how to tackle.

Also, how did you keep the larger panels wet with the metal ready for 30min? Was it just a matter of wiping with a damp cloth? I have found another product which apparently you just wipe on and let dry, but its still just phosphoric acid so I can't see why there is a difference.

Apologies if you have covered this, and many thanks for the help.

Cheers,
Alan
 

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Discussion Starter #1,002
.....Great thread - very informative and it has re-invigorated me to begin tackling my 1750 shell's body work!
Glad to hear that....we all need inspiration at various stages of these projects......because they do become very tiring and challenging....and it can get to the point of wanting to just throw in the towel...at times.

... How did you prepare the weld areas, did you remove the coating in this area first? If so, how much did you remove back from the weld area? This is something I have thought about doing but have been unsure of how to tackle.
Whatever coating is there....you need to remove at least 1/2" to either side of the weld area and ideally on the back side as well....i found the MIG would work better and get you nicer welds with less splattering....

Also, how did you keep the larger panels wet with the metal ready for 30min? Was it just a matter of wiping with a damp cloth? I have found another product which apparently you just wipe on and let dry, but its still just phosphoric acid so I can't see why there is a difference.
Apologies if you have covered this, and many thanks for the help.
Cheers,
Alan
Yeah that was definitely a challenge. I just kept spraying on more metal ready as it was drying.....a real PITA.....but that stuff really worked a charm at keeping the surface rust at bay....even after 5 years in some areas. Not sure if this helps you or not....but have at it with your project.
 

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Yeah cheers, that clears it up. I figure you just wipe it down with a damp cloth to clean off the metal ready?

Thanks for the help :D
 

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My search for a trunk latch key has finally been resolved. Some research at ILCO's web site listed more than one code # ....I thought ILCO # F91C2 would be suitable....however I was hesitant to buy it without knowing for sure. I visited Pinarello here in TO and sure enough he only one exact key blank left....and it fit perfectly! Not wanting to wait for a locksmith...I figured I'd give it a try myself.

Putting the key blank into the tumbler forces the internal tabs to pop-up which then allows you to determine how deep the notch to filed needs to be at that location on the key.

lock 008.jpg

This is my first "cut" at it....it's not pretty but works. Filing by hand was not difficult...except that you really can't produce nice and consistent ramp angles at the notches.....but it works so as long as those tabs no longer protrude past the barrel when the key is inserted. I'll get some new keys cut by a locksmith....once I find one that is trustworthy.

lock 011.jpg

With this dilemma resolved.....I was finally able to complete the full installation of the trunk cable and latch.

View attachment 865833
 

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Can you take some more shots of around the car as it is now, interior engine bay, suspension and exterior. Love your work....
She's buried under covers and all taped up at the moment .....i haven't started at all on the engine bay....suspension re assembly as well hasn't commenced....overall photos at this point won't reveal too much.....we'll have to wait.:frown2:
 

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I've been working the numerous interior stainless trim details .....cleaning, sanding, polishing and installing....with the desire/intent to be able to refit the door seals. Looking ahead at the assembly sequences....it is apparent that I need to fit the rear window before I can install the B pillar seal retainer. This leads me to the issue at hand....how to refish the anodized aluminum trim for the window . For those that have ventured into this ....what have you guys done to address this part?
 

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"....how to refish the anodized aluminum trim for the window"?
what part exactly are you talking about? don't remember seeing aluminum trim there...unless you mean the vertical trim on rear quarter glass? refish?
Could you describe the trim polishing process please, I am having hard time with a final luster?
 

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Naka,

I think he's referring to the anodized aluminum trim pieces that are embedded in the front and rear window seals.

Rossano,

If you need to remove the anodizing in order to remove gouges or scrapes in the trim, Eastwood sells a liquid anodizing remover. Once you get the pieces cleaned up you can either re-anodize them or, if you prefer a more shiny look, just polish them.
 

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"....how to refish the anodized aluminum trim for the window"?
what part exactly are you talking about? don't remember seeing aluminum trim there...unless you mean the vertical trim on rear quarter glass? refish?
I am referring to the front and rear windscreen trim pieces....these are anodized aluminum (as Rkirkpatrick stated). The anodizing on mine is quite splotchy(?) pitted and scratched all over from flying debris (pebbles...stones...sand...etc)....as you can see in these photos.

trim 010.jpg

trim 011.jpg

Could you describe the trim polishing process please, I am having hard time with a final luster?
There are a few videos on youtube that show how to refinish stainless trim. I found the following sequence worked for me quite well. Note that STEPS 1 & 2 are only necessary at areas that need to have hammer work done.

STEP1) If the trim has dents (as mine did) these areas need to be corrected first. Gently bump out the small dings and dent marks using a hammer and punch against a smooth clean steal backing plate. Then file down the high spots using a very fine flat file. Both the filing and bumping needs to be done gently and with finesse...no brute force is necessary here.

STEP 2) Dry sand only these areas using 400 grit sandpaper (not emery cloth which I found it to be too coarse even though it was listed as 400 grit). I liked Gator brand finishing system #3 ...400 grit finishing paper...sold at Home Depot.

STEP 3) Wet sand starting at 600 grit, 1000 grit...up to 1500 grit paper. At this point the finish is already surprisingly shiny and quite nice.

STEP 4) Polish out on a buffing wheel with polishing compounds. Again here....there are a few you tube videos showing this process.

I know this seems rather thin on detail....however, at first I tried going the polishing route only using 4 grades of polishing compounds .....but found that this not only took forever (and with unsatisfactory results) but a lot of heat is generated by the buffing wheel as well. Also, polishing over (even the lightest) scratches seemed to highlight them even more after polishing. Whereas using the wet sanding method first.....scratches can be taken down very quickly to the point that only I only ended up using the finest polishing compound (colour white) to finish off parts.

I need to repeat this process on my bumpers....so I'll post some photos of these steps at that time.
 

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...Rossano,

If you need to remove the anodizing in order to remove gouges or scrapes in the trim, Eastwood sells a liquid anodizing remover. Once you get the pieces cleaned up you can either re-anodize them or, if you prefer a more shiny look, just polish them.
I realize that anodizing can be removed,the trim polished and then piece re-anodized, but I was really hoping that someone might have already gone down this road and could share their experience before I go this route.

So yes these are the 2 most obvious and straight forward options (and probably the cheapest as well)....with a third perhaps clear powder coating? Anybody have direct experience with these?
 

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Thanks for the long write up. I've been doing it the same way just dry sending (never wet sanded anything), I should try. **** bumpers, forgot about those. Got a cheap bench polisher from Harbor Freight, I'll try finishing with jeweler's rough and report back.
 

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Newbie with a task on his hands!

Rossini, and all.

Having just purchased a 71 1750GTV finding this thread has been extremely helpful in showing me what a task I've given myself. I'm not daunted, honest🙈

Hopefully the image of the car in 2014 shows, new to this forum so still finding my feet, I'll get a pic of the car as it is now and post it later.

Great thread!
 

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Rossano, I'd did spell your correctly but it became a victim of 'spell check'!
Not a problem. I see you're a newbie to this BB, and you've already made an introduction is the new members forum....so welcome indeed.

One thing I would recommend you do right away is begin a thread on the restoration of your car in this GT forum because if other BB members are like me, we only tend to focus and provide feedback on threads posted up in the forum that is of interest to us.....I rarely look in the spider forum for example.

Another tip.....most folks may not know that previous posts can be edited and even deleted if desired. Simply select the edit tabs that exist at the bottom of your post.....once the new pop-up opens up, you can then select 'delete'.....i've done this many a time in cases where I felt a comment was in appropriate or redundant for example.

So start that new thread right away....like me you'll find that blogging on a regular basis helps you to keep focused throughout the rebuild of your project....:)
 

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Thanks for the swift post and advice!

I will do as suggested and start a new thread, seeing where I've gone back to today I thing my task will be on par with your 105 with the addition of both rear quarters. The U.K is not kind to cars and it looks like this is the second time around for ATR 5K.

Barry
 

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More issues with the front windshield trim piece. My passenger side trim has a nasty dent in it....I'm weighing the options on this...but I'm not sure if fixing it is viable.

I was wondering if anyone has attempted repairing with the use of "Muggy Weld"...then filing/sanding/polishing it out before re-anodizing.

I realize complete new sets are available but my cost would probably be around the $500 mark after shipping/taxes are paid.

trim 005.jpg
 

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Wouldn't panel beating it out be the best option?
Pete
 

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Wouldn't panel beating it out be the best option?
Pete
Tried that...made it worse. The dent was transmitted through to the backing stiffener and that cannot be straightened out. This thing is very delicate and the anodized surface is surprisingly hard.....so filling it would be the easier way to go...hence the possibility of using Muggy Weld came to mind. Just don't want to spend $100 on it if it won't work properly. I'd like to buy one.....anyone have one lying around that they don't need?
 
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