[brad fischer]

My plugs have a similar look with #1 being a bit darker. I checked them last year, I have not checked this year.

 

[1750GT]

..My plugs have a similar look with #1 being a bit darker. I checked them last year, I have not checked this year.

Good to know.....for some reason I was thinking that the FI was running richer....but it looks like it's running nicely at speed at least. Warm idling is still not as smooth as I'd like it to be with the tach needle bouncing a bit...and quite often pulling away from a stop it feels like the engine is misfiring. So maybe idle mixture on the FI pump needs another look see.

 

[1750GT]

This past weekend we headed out for a long 350km return trip to the VARAC event at Mosport. I even braved the motorways to head out to the meeting point on the opposite side of the city from my home.

I am happy to report that all went well....though I must tackle a problem I experience with vibration whenever I exceed 110kph indicated speed. Not sure exactly what or where the problem is, but I'm looking at buying this smartphone APP which has been shown to be successful at diagnosing drivetrain, engine and wheel/tire vibration issues.

How The NVH Noise Vibration Harshness App Works Diagnose Repair (vibratesoftware.com)

 

[r-mm]

Interesting link thanks for sharing that. Have you heard from anybody firsthand? I noticed it asks you to select the vehicle - wonder if they do fifty year old Italians?

I believe we discussed drive train balancing on another thread I posted the rather large patch my machine shop welded to the pressure plate to bring it into balance. That and rebuilding the driveshaft joints has given me a nicer ride.

 

[1750GT]

..Interesting link thanks for sharing that. Have you heard from anybody firsthand? I noticed it asks you to select the vehicle - wonder if they do fifty year old Italians?

For cars that are not listed....the App allows the manually entry of the necessary data and proceed as normal after that. There is an excellent youtube channel called Weberauto with a very knowledgeable presenter called John Kelly, who was involved with the development of the NVH App. He describes in detail how it works in one of the videos...
Diagnose Vibrations as you Drive - The NVH App - YouTube

..I believe we discussed drive train balancing on another thread I posted the rather large patch my machine shop welded to the pressure plate to bring it into balance. That and rebuilding the driveshaft joints has given me a nicer ride.

I must admit that I simply rebuilt my driveshaft by replacing the u joints without really checking the centering of the joint after installation. Here too John Kelly has a great video (6 parts in all) outlining how to do the whole job correctly...
Universal Joints - Part 1: Introduction - YouTube
Should the App show that my drivetrain is source of the vibration/harshness.....I will recheck my prop shaft joints as per the video first.

 

[brad fischer]

I watched the videos. Great tool and app. You should buy it ! Good to see your GTV on a long drive to Mosport.

 

[1750GT]

At the VARAC event I attended this past Sunday....a question regarding the battery hold down hardware came up in which a few of the owners mentioned that I may not have the correct ones. Specifically the hex nuts on the bar were thought to be incorrect and perhaps they should have been wing nuts instead. What I have, matches the 69 parts manual with the correct hex nuts...perhaps later cars had wing nuts?

 

[GTA Alfa]

10mm hex nuts all the way thru to the S4 Spiders. The parts book doesn't lie.

 

[1750GT]

..10mm hex nuts all the way thru to the S4 Spiders. The parts book doesn't lie.

Thanks confirming that for the other cars. For the 1969 US cars, the parts manual (from my experience) has been accurate and invaluable during my restoration.

 

[PSk]

So many experts ...

Not looking forward to these inevitable conversations
Pete

 

[kengta]

I have never seen wing nuts used on battery hold downs. Just m6 nuts or m6 self locking nuts, which may not be correct either.

Moral. Don't listen to wing nuts.

K

 

[1750GT]

..So many experts ...Not looking forward to these inevitable conversations
Pete

Just go with what's in the factory parts manuals and questions on correct configuration can in most cases be easily resolved.

 

[PSk]

Body color on the underside is not a top priority for me at this point in time.....( I've gone backwards on too many occasions on this project). I 've progressed on both sides of the front suspension...the usual work was completed on these....strip, blast, paint, new bushings, seals, rotors machined, ...etc. etc...Koni Reds....no magic here....simple simple.

View attachment 1489209

Brake calipers calipers were the next mini milestone for me...but not for the disassembly / reassembly aspects. I've been staring at these calipers for years! and was always putting these on the back burner till now.

View attachment 1489217

My plating system's power unit is at the limit of amperage (5A) for parts the size of half of one rear caliper. But the end result was not too bad ...for an amateur. The front calipers on the other hand are much larger and so I would have to either plate half of one of the calipers halves at a time...or look for a bigger power unit....one that can output 10A.

Rossano, I can't tell in your photos here but are the suspension bolts black oxide or zinc plated please?

Pete

 

[1750GT]

Brake caliper bolts I painted and baked them....but probably should have black oxided them. If you paint them....make sure to apply loctite when assembling. Most of the other suspension bolts I zinc plated and oven baked them immediately afterwards.

 

[PSk]

Thanks Rossano, could you share the specs of the Variable Power Supply you use for your Caswell Plating kit please. Will buy an equivalent and get this process working
Pete

 

[1750GT]

Power supply should be as big as you can afford.....with minimum size being one that can output 10amps DC. I bought mine off "Flea-bay" but I'm sure Amazon will offer the similar units. The key driver is that the power supply should deliver a minimum of .14 amp/sq.in. of part surface that is to be plated....so determine first that max size of the part you are interested in plating then work back to obtain the max unit size.

 

[PSk]

Somewhere I have their book as I have been down this path before. I found their instructions confusing having to convert all units to something I understood. But I nearly got there and you and others have so I should be able to as well.

What I lacked was a proper power supply and I'm prepared now to bite the bullet and try again.

Why do I want to plate myself:
1. Fear of loosing parts
2. Not cheap
3. Being able to plate as I go instead of having to plan ahead

Thanks. Will do the maths and see what I can find to purchase ... then I have to order the chemicals again
Pete

 

[1750GT]

Oh yes....I forgot that you did go down the path already.....so what was the power supply you were using earlier? On my first go with plating, I bought the unit on the left for around $100 and it seemed like a good one. However I later realised that at only 5 amp output, I could not plate pieces lager than 35 sq.in. so I then bought the unit on the right a 10amp one which cost probably half as much and it has worked OK for me so far.

 

[PSk]

I was trying to use light bulbs, etc. because I was being a tight @rse ... as usual ended up wasting more money. Now want to do it right.

I have found a 30V 10A DC power supply for $155 NZ so that will be bought. Mucho thanks Rossano
Pete

 

[1750GT]

Last month I finally closed another item on the TODO list ....an unfinished detail on the interior. The original rear seat belt center loop was in rather poor condition with corrosion/rust on the angled brackets and the central metal loop.

I zinc plated the brackets and had the metal loop re-chrome plated....the webbing I reclaimed from a spare lap belt of the same style. I was able to go back to a local upholsterer (former South African who started in the business back in the 60's...so he tells me) and he was willing to do this rather small job of resewing the pieces, hardware and the original printed label back together.

I finished off the rear and the front belts off with Osso's nice repro labels on the clasps.

I actually don't mind these belts though they are restrictive on movement when driving...but hey when I drive, I don't see a need to move around much anyways.
The only other detail on these that I will keep an eye out for is in finding a set of bracket covers like these...