Alfa Romeo Forums banner
2121 - 2137 of 2137 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,121 · (Edited)
I posted the video below on one of RMM's threads to do with the Spica air tower. But I though I ought to repost it here for posterity. So here's where my engine's warm idle is at currently...


I don't think I can get things much better at this point and it's running well overall (if I do say so myself). It's pulling from 2-4 K quite nicely.....with about 450 km on the engine so far. I guess it's time to change the oil and filter, recheck the clearances between cams and tappets . I am feeling more confident and am starting to venture further away from home base now....but not so confident to want to go on a 200km road trip with the GTA East Alfa boys yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,541 Posts
Rossano it’s always hard to tell from the video but from what I see I’d be quite pleased with the idle you have achieved.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,124 ·
..Is it time to start working her properly now with full throttle loads? Pete
Probably is time yeah....I've taken short runs on the highway a bunch of times....up to 110 kph (in 5th) with shifts at 4K...next time I'll stretch it out to 5K between shifts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,125 ·
..Rossano it’s always hard to tell from the video but from what I see I’d be quite pleased with the idle you have achieved.
Just to experiment...I turned in the idle stop screw on the bell crank ever so little...so as to get the idle up from the 650 rpm that I was experiencing previously. I know this is may not be the correct thing to do (it was set previously with a proper stop tool) but I read recently in one older thread that the nuts to use with the tool are supposed to be tapered so that the holes on the tool are centred more precisely on the manifold studs (the tool I picked up years ago did not come with tapered nuts)....so I figured the stop screw may not in fact be set optimally anyways. On this last engine run the hot idle seems pretty good yes....I'll see how it hold up for the next little while. But soon I need to recheck timing, gaps, advance etc. and I really need to pick-up a new timing light with an rpm readout (the one I currently have is a bit of a pain to use without this feature).
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
84 Posts
I would have attempted to powder coat them the first time...but I was concerned that it would not flow well into the crevice formed between the wheel center and the outer rim....hence the use of regular enamel and urethane clear coat.....which took way too much time to prep and finish. If I had to do these again....I would go with powder coat.
Just had my 5 x rims powder coated, by matching half a dozen different silver colour cards to get the closest match to the original colour. Seems like a good match, BUT your concerns it may not flow into the crevice is very valid. This is the result from picking up the wheels yesterday. It's going back to get sandblasted again and maybe just a 2 PAC next time? Shame as the remainder does look really good.


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Locking hubs Car
Wheel Tire Automotive tire Synthetic rubber Tread
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,127 ·
Aha!.....that's what I was afraid could happen....a shame really as otherwise they looked darn nice! I wonder though if that might have been a case of some residual solvent or cleaner that had been unsuccessfully removed prior to powder and that when subjected to the high baking temperatures....caused the bubbling to occur due to outgassing? Maybe the rims should be baked at temperature first to burn off any residual oils or solvents...then powdered? A question for the Powder coater I guess.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
412 Posts
I had my steel 69 rims powder coated and they came out flawless. The wheel has to be clean, looks like there is contamination thus causing the paint lift. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,129 ·
I had my steel 69 rims powder coated and they came out flawless. The wheel has to be clean, looks like there is contamination thus causing the paint lift. Good luck
Good to know...still some hope then for the powder. Would you happen to have a photo of yours of the area in question?.....would love to see what it looks like when done properly.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
84 Posts
Well there you go looks like it can be done, those look perfect to me. I actually just dropped my wheels of again about 30min ago and we had a chat. I mentioned about some possible contamination, and honestly they just said it happens often and they don't know why? Some customers complain, some don't. Though otteud96 wheels shows it can be done. Funny thing is, there were a couple of other sets there as well, both steel and alloy and they all looked as bad as mine? They've been powder coating wheels for decades, so you'd think they'd learn a thing or two? So the verdict is they'll re-do them again from scratch, and if it's still no good then they'll sand blast again and 2 PAC in the same colour. Either way is good for me, I'm not paying another $400 to try elsewhere

Don't understand why you want to powder coat instead of just paint ... your current wheels lasted 50 years just painted.

Pete
To be honest I was going to just paint in 2 PAC, but after what happened with 1750GT, I thought the powder coat would not only be more resilient, but may also last longer taking the hub cap on and off?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
412 Posts
Originally the wheels were anodized and not painted. Powder coating is a good and reasonably cost alternative. Painting is good as well but it doesn't stand up as well over time. Good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,949 Posts
I had a set of steel rims powder coated a few years ago and experienced the same bubbling issue in the crevices like Joppa.
I also agree with Pete, no need to powder coat rims. Good primers and paint are more than adequate and look better IMO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,135 ·
That's the route I went with on my wheels....but I have experienced 2 problems with paint and clearcoats. First is that brake fluid will very quickly attack the paint and clear coat and will soften it within minutes of contact. Obviously this is to be avoided at all costs.....but it happened to me while en route to a recent event. Also milder chemicals can stain the clear coat if not washed off immediately....the tire shop that mounted my CN36's must use some strong and nasty soap to ease tire and valve installation.....it must have been left on for who knows how long before I went to collect them...who would have thunk it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,250 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,137 ·
..Maybe a modern 2 pack paint would survive better? Pete
I'm thinking an epoxy would be more durable and resistant to harsh chemicals. I wonder if there is such a product in the correct (or close enough) colored silver?
 
2121 - 2137 of 2137 Posts
Top