Alfa Romeo Forums banner
2061 - 2080 of 2137 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,061 ·
I was preparing my car for an extended drive that was to take place tomorrow morning with a small local group of Alfa's. Sadly I soon discovered that I could not engage reverse gear and 5th.....:cry:...also heard some grinding noises coming from inside the tranny. Looks like I'll be having to pull the tranny ..... and I'm not looking forward to it.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,481 Posts
That is bad news. More than a few of us were looking forward to seeing your GTV. Good luck with the repair.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,557 Posts
I was preparing my car for an extended drive that was to take place tomorrow morning with a small local group of Alfa's. Sadly I soon discovered that I could not engage reverse gear and 5th.....:cry:...also heard some grinding noises coming from inside the tranny. Looks like I'll be having to pull the tranny ..... and I'm not looking forward to it.
Right there with you Rossano… (block not trans but who’s counting). You’ll get it done.

When I was working on my transmission I went to see Keith at Alfas Unlimited to buy some good used fifth gear synchros. He pointed out that wear is common on the selector fork. I cannot remember the exact details of it now but it was to the tune of rhe fork rubbing something while in gear? I was very happy that he caught it and sold me good used parts there as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,067 ·
........ He pointed out that wear is common on the selector fork. ...
I did not see any significant wear on the shift forks when I rebuilt this tranny. I suspect either a broken shift fork...or loose shift fork retaining bolt.....but till I get the tranny apart I won't know. Trying to get this tranny out in situ has been a PITA already. The tranny decided to lock itself (probably to do with the shift fork issue) and as such I could not rotate the drive shaft which made removing the guibo bolts and the split flange bolts between the front and rear driveshaft almost impossible to do :mad:. Then came the tilting of the engine to try and drop the tranny out....no luck with that either...the back of the engine is still sitting too high and the tranny still can't clear the tunnel nor the 4 bell housing bolts. I will try to remove the engine mounts next and see if that drops the engine a couple of more inches......arghhhh.:mad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,068 ·
Woo hoo....transmission is finally out. The trick was to disconnect the exhaust from the exhaust manifold and undo the bolts/nuts holding the engine mounts to the cross member. This allowed the engine to be shifted forwards a couple of more inches so that the 4 studs could clear the bell housing flange...the tranny could then be angled down wards and out...but boy it is a tight fit everywhere there. I did not have to undo the centre track rod, nor the fan ....nor anything else for that matter. Next up is autopsy of the tranny.

Photograph Motor vehicle Automotive tire Hood Light
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,069 ·
...autopsy report is in......the bolt that holds the shift fork to the reverse shift rod was MIA...

Machine Metal Engineering Gun accessory Office equipment

...I found it at the bottom of the rear case. Whoever tightened that ....didn't! what a rookie mistake...:mad:... While I was at it today....I decided to split the tranny case and check the other fork bolts. Thankfully I found those to be very secure and tight....I should get the tranny back together by tomorrow....I will also use loctite on that bolt this time for good measure.

Automotive tire Locking hubs Vehicle brake Gear Motor vehicle
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,557 Posts
Rossano I recall purchasing new perhaps higher strength bolts for this application. Glad you have it sorted nice work.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
418 Posts
Make sure the bolt hole is clean before u locktite it and that the lock plate and serrated plate are seated while positioning the shift fork. Good luck hope all goes well
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,072 ·
..I recall purchasing new perhaps higher strength bolts ....
In my case the original bolt is in perfect condition so I see no need to replace it. Why did you feel it needed higher a strength bolt?

...make sure the bolt hole is clean before u locktite it and that the lock plate and serrated plate are seated while positioning the shift fork..... Good luck hope all goes well
It seemed to me that I forgot to fold the locking tab on the bolt the first time round and vibration can't cause the bolt to overcome that feature....so yes doing it correctly is the key here.

The next challenge will be re-installing the tranny. I'm not looking forward to trying to shoehorn it back in though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,073 ·
I spent the past 2 evenings refitting the tranny.....and though yesterday was a bit frustrating in that I wasn't able to mate it up to the engine correctly.....tonight I took it nice and easy ....loosend all the bell housing bolts....but this time I tightened them up evenly and a little bit at a time to prevent any binding and sure enough things fell into place nicely. Also managed to refit the driveshaft, exhaust and most of the items underneath.....I'm hoping to fire the engine back up in a couple of days...and complete the console refit by week's end....I'll flip those toggle switches back to the more usual orientation as well ...pointing up in the off position.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,074 ·
We're back on the road......and so far so good. I now I need to get some mileage on her....I'm crossing my fingers and hoping (nay praying) nothing else serious pops up.

FWIW....after having just gone through this little exercise...and comparing the effort, time and difficulty...in the future, if I have to fix a tranny again I will go the route of pulling it and the engine out as one unit. It's really not that much more work anyways...and I found installing the engine/tranny as a unit easier to do in the end. For those mullling over whether to buy or rent an engine hoist......I'd say mine has paid for itself already ....a very invaluable and must have tool.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,280 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2,075 ·
Took this photo with my cell (which is not the best really I know)....but looking at this photo I'm not happy at all with the wiper arms. Here I thought they were OE.....but now I'm thinking now way. They're sitting high up because this was the only way to get them to be parallel to each other...plus the bend in the arms are too high up. On a positive note....the engine is pulling nicely now up to 3500rpm ....the more it drives the smoother it's starting to feel....but I still have a bunch of small things to sort out this summer.


Car Land vehicle Vehicle Automotive parking light Tire
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,481 Posts
Yes the wiper arms do look wrong. You should compare to other S1 1750s and stepnose GT Jrs. As you know 70 and onward had different arms.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
418 Posts
Could be that the friction stopped the wipers at that location. Pull the wipers up and do a cycle, then lower the arms then check for alignment. I also use rain x cleaner as it has a slight luring effect and it helps to bead the water off in misty conditions. Great looking gtv. Good luck
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,481 Posts
The 2 spare pairs of S1 arms look like yours, my spare S2 arms are similar to what is on my GTV. Follow my link to see.
 
2061 - 2080 of 2137 Posts
Top