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Hello,
I'm in need of some opinions on how to address a problem I've just discovered.
I jumped into the Super this morning to run her around a bit and noticed that the clutch pedal went all the way to the floor without resistance. Subsequently, I could not engage any gears.

I took a quick look around and noticed that the fluid reservoir was empty. I filled it then started pumping the clutch to see if I could get pressure back...but still nothing. I looked under the car to see a slow drip from the slave cylinder.

More pumping...still no pressure. I then started looking more closely at the slave and noticed the rubber sleeve had come free from one of the retaining(sealing?) clips on one end of the push rod. More pumping and then I saw a large puddle of fluid on the ground, however, the fluid level in the reservoir was still where it was after I filled it (??).

For fun, I pumped the clutch again, to feel that the pressure had come back. I checked the slave and squeezed the rubber sleeve until a lot more fluid drained out. Again, no change in the fluid level in the reservoir and the pressure is back in the clutch and I can engage the gears.

Could this have been due to a slow leak and then getting air in the system? Or is it more likely a shot slave cylinder that I should replace?

I'm hoping for a quick solution to this as I have to drop the Super off at the port in Zeebrugge to ship to New York. Then it needs to make a drive from NYC to Boston in a few more weeks.

Thanks for your advice,
-Raym
 

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Sounds like the seal in the slave has died. It lives kind of a hard life. I'd replace or rebuild. Many recommend doing the master at the same time, but that's pretty much up to you, I think.
Andrew
 

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Andrew,
Thank you for the feedback...I'm starting to look at my options for buying a new one.

-Raym
 

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Slave cylinder installation

So I now have a new slave cylinder and want to install it.

I went about bleeding the fluid from the old one then disconnected the the hose. I have managed to get the retaining clips off and am now trying to remove the cylinder from the bracket with little success.

Pushing it forward (to the front of the car) won't work because the lip of the cylinder won't go through the bracket. And backward it is abutting the arm that goes into the transmission. Any tips? Am I just being too gentle with it and should I use more force to get the cylinder to clear the arm?

Cheers,
-Raym
 

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On my GTV, I had to disassemble it (both the old and the new). Take that big spring off that is used to hold on the boot. Same when putting the new one on. Careful not to get and grit or gunk in the new one cause you got to put it back together when it's on the car - thru the slot. FWIW, I also put a new clutch master in while I was at it and whatever you do, make sure to put a new slave hose in. If you don't do the clutch master, flush new fluid thru first before you hook up the new slave so you're starting off with fresh fluid in it.
 

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@lowmileage - Thanks for confirming that and great tip on flushing the fluid before connecting to the master....as I am only going after the slave right now!

Best regards,
-Raym
 

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You leave the circlip toward the front of the car attached; push the cylinder partway into place in the hole, then feed the rear circlip, boot, pushrod, and boot clip onto the rear-of-the-car end, and attach them all as you push the cylinder fully into place. Hard to describe, easy to do. To get the front circlip past the block, you may have to twist it some; some parts of the clip stick up higher than others.

Orient with the bleeder screw upwards, then bleed. I did this on my 89 Spider Wednesday in under an hour, including bleeding.

Andrew
 

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I did this on my 89 Spider Wednesday in under an hour, including bleeding.
1 hour??? I guess I am truly a novice at this stuff. But thanks for the advice Andrew on the re-installation, I know it will come in handy when I get there.

Unfortunately, I've been stuck in the removal phase for more than 3 hours and can't figure it out. I think I am missing something very easy or obvious.

Here's my dilemna: I've removed the push-rod, boot, and retaining clips (circlip), as well as the flexi-hose and bleed valve. In the first picture is the original position of the cylinder. The second shows when I slide it back to try and remove. However, the arm into the transmission is blocking my attempts and there is still too much of the cylinder in the bracket for me to think that I'm close. When the hydraulics were working, obviously there was enough force to move the arm back. But what do I do now that there is no hydraulic source? My attempts to move it manually have failed (if others can do this, please don't laugh at me ;))

Am I missing something obvious...should the transmission be in a certain gear or neutral?

Cheers,
-Raym
 

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It should slide out the other way (toward engine)but you experience it hanging up at the end, so why not get some 40=80 sand paper and run it around that end that hangs up and then try again? you can make a ring of the sandpaper around the end of the slave and rotate the slave to remove whatever is catching
 

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@rogerspeed - Looks like I've got plans for first thing tomorrow morning....but it seemed to me like the part that was stopping it from passing through the bracket when pushing toward the engine was larger in diameter than the rest of the cylinder so I didn't even try forcing it in that direction. But after your advice and looking more closely at the pics, it does seem to be the same size. Thanks for setting me off in the right direction...

Cheers,
-Raym
 

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Thanks again Rogerspeed....5 minutes of sanding and it slid right out.

And with the other suggestions, the installation of the new one was a breeze. I now actually believe that Andrew could be correct....that it could take a mere hour to do the whole job (of course for me that still requires a lot more practice).

Thanks again all for your help.

-Raym
 

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Yup, implied, but did not actually state, that it come out towards the front. Sometimes the cylinder itself and/or the circlips get completely rusted/stuck in place and then it's no fun at all trying to remove.

Andrew
 

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use some copper grease when installing. This to prevent it from getting stuck the next time.
A slave cilinder costs about 40 euro's here in NL. I usually replace when I buy me another Alfa. The last one, one my fresh Berlina, I did in about 20 minutes. You don't even have to really bleed it.
Open up the bleed screw, let it drip for a while, with the cap atop the master cilinder off, tighten the bleed screw, and pump slowly for 5 minutes till you have pressure, then fill up the reservoir.
Done!
 
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