You may want to look into the adjustment of the small e-brake shoes that are at the rear of the car, then re-adjust the cable after these are set.
Cheers!
Dave G.
Cheers!
Dave G.
Adjust Emergency brake handle ?
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Dave G is right - adjust the shoes of the handbrake. There is a small hole in the hub of the rear rotors - use a screwdriver to turn the star wheel inside to adjust the shoes.
If the handle still won't stay 'on' once the shoes are adjusted you probably need to check & sharpen the ratchet's teeth. Each time you yank up the handle and it makes that click-click-click noise the pawl is scraping along the ratchet (and wearing it away...)
Use a small triangular shaped file to make the teeth on the ratchet sharp.
Instead of yanking up on the handle and making the click-click-click sound, press in the release button as you pull up on the handbrake then release the button once the brake is applied.
If the handle still won't stay 'on' once the shoes are adjusted you probably need to check & sharpen the ratchet's teeth. Each time you yank up the handle and it makes that click-click-click noise the pawl is scraping along the ratchet (and wearing it away...)
Use a small triangular shaped file to make the teeth on the ratchet sharp.
Instead of yanking up on the handle and making the click-click-click sound, press in the release button as you pull up on the handbrake then release the button once the brake is applied.
Attachments
Put the car on stands and remove rear wheels.
1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move
2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub
3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.
4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two
5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.
6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.
The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.
Did I forget anything?
1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move
2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub
3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.
4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two
5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.
6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.
The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.
Did I forget anything?
Attachments
Put the car on stands and remove rear wheels.
1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move
2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub
3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.
4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two
5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.
6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.
The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.
Did I forget anything?
Thank you, very helpful! John
Put the car on stands and remove rear wheels.
1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move
2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub
3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.
4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two
5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.
6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.
The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.
Did I forget anything?
Can you tell me more about the Clevis? I have done all of the adjustments and still the brake only engages at the fifth ratchet ie the handle fully pulled up. checked the diagram for " Clevis but no luck>
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
