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The hand brake on my 78 will pop back up to about the half way position. The e-Brake works . Both sides catch and release. The brakes engage before the handle reaches the upper limit. It will not lay flat. I've been under the car and adjusted the cable tensioner, but can't find the sweet spot. I don't feel any tension on the cable. Or does it need tension from the cable to pull it down?
 

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You may want to look into the adjustment of the small e-brake shoes that are at the rear of the car, then re-adjust the cable after these are set.

Cheers!
Dave G.
 

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Dave G is right - adjust the shoes of the handbrake. There is a small hole in the hub of the rear rotors - use a screwdriver to turn the star wheel inside to adjust the shoes.

If the handle still won't stay 'on' once the shoes are adjusted you probably need to check & sharpen the ratchet's teeth. Each time you yank up the handle and it makes that click-click-click noise the pawl is scraping along the ratchet (and wearing it away...)

Use a small triangular shaped file to make the teeth on the ratchet sharp.

Instead of yanking up on the handle and making the click-click-click sound, press in the release button as you pull up on the handbrake then release the button once the brake is applied.
 

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Bob L,
I had the same problem when I replaced the parking brake cable. Did you do your adjustments with the handle completely horizontal? If not, try putting it in the position you will like it to be, then holding it down with something heavy. I had to use my large air gun in order for it to stay down. Once its at rest, then you can adjust it either at the brake shoe or the cable.
 

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1) adjust shoes at wheel hubs 'til the shoes just skim the drum, then back off 1-2 teeth on the starwheel

2) adjust cable tension at large round device up under the tunnel 'til the slack is taken up and brake lever/handle is fully engaged at the 5th click of the locking pawl.
 

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Put the car on stands and remove rear wheels.

1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move

2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub

3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.

4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two

5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.

6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.

The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.

Did I forget anything? :)
 

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I usually tighten the star wheel tight to seat both shoes on the inside drum to get them even then back off until the hub turns freely then tighten again until a drag if felt then back off a click or two.
 

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Put the car on stands and remove rear wheels.

1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move

2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub

3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.

4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two

5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.

6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.

The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.

Did I forget anything? :)


Thank you, very helpful! John
 

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Sorry for the off-topic message, but your name seems very familiar, John. Might you be connected to the Alfa or Iso-Bizzarrini world in the UK?

Back on topic: all advice given is good, especially from TorW. My handbrake cable is under full tension on the third click. Another tip is to try to remember to pull up the lever while depressing the release button, this will help save the ratchet teeth.

Alex.
 

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I would add that BEFORE adjusting the starwheel, slacken the cable first. The reason is that the handbrake shoes need to be adjusted without any outside influence from the cable (which may have been adjusted to remove slack when only the shoes needed adjusting).
 

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Can you use an ATE center cable for a Dunlop System?

On a related note: My center parking brake cable sheath is shot and binding on my Dunlop system. I can only find replacements that state for ATE only. Is there a source other than IAP, Centerline or Vick for a Dunlop cable? Or is there a workaround or modification I can make to the ATE cable so that it will work well on my Dunlop system? Thanks.
 

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Put the car on stands and remove rear wheels.

1. Put the handbrake handle in its horizontal position and make sure it can't move

2. Turn the rear hub until the star wheel appears in one of the holes in the hub

3. Use a flathead screwdriver and click-turn the star wheel. Left to tighten, right to loosen up. See arrow in attached picture.

4. Continue until the brake shoes touches the drum and back the star wheel off one click or two

5. Adjust the cable (i.e. take up the slack) with the adjuster in the propshaft tunnel. The cable should be tight, but not so tight that the handle starts to move. You may have to remove the cotter pin and turn the clevis if the cable's too slack.
6. Check that the handle just barely engages the brake shoes against the drum (or the handbrake telltale engages) when in notch #2. Repeat step 4-5 until it does.

The reason for step 6 is that you want to engage the brake as early as possible so that the handle travel don't become too long later, when the pads wear out or the cable stretches.

Did I forget anything? :)

Can you tell me more about the Clevis? I have done all of the adjustments and still the brake only engages at the fifth ratchet ie the handle fully pulled up. checked the diagram for " Clevis but no luck>
 

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By 'clevis' I think he's refering to item #2 in the snip from the shop manual (attachment #2). That will release item #4 'fork' so it can be screwed in or out to adjust the tension on the cable.
 

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