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Discussion Starter #1
Just put a new ignition switch into my ‘76 Spider, all is well on the starting front, thanks for the help.

Since I’ve purchased the car last year, none of the accessories seem to be controlled by the switch. I can run the heater fan, turn signals and wipers completely independent of the key switch. They are always “hot” so long as the battery is connected. I figured the new switch would solve this but no dice

Any ideas where to begin on this one? i did notice the ignition switch had two “30” or power in hookups, does this make a difference?
 

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That’s how my 60s cars behaved... I‘m not sure you have anything to solve.
I can’t help with if/when this changed, I’m afraid.
your wiring diagram would be informative.
 

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As Ranz said, that's the way your car was wired by the factory. Your ignition switch isn't sized to handle the current those accessories draw, so re-wiring the car to power their circuits from the ignition switch wouldn't be a good idea.
 

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The wiring diagram I have for a 77 only has one wire to 30, a red one. 15 should be a brown wire out to fuse 6 which is warning light, gauges, back up light. Which I think is the only switched circuit. Fan and turn signals are fuse 3 and wipers are fuse 2, both of which are hot all the time.
 

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Haha, well don’t I look the fool

Never occurred to me that that was how they were from the factory as late as the 70s

oh well, thanks for the enlightenment!
 

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Andrew,

When I install a new radio into an old Alfa, the new radio nearly always has two power inputs. One for full time, high current power. The other is a "switched power" input, which will essentially trip a relay inside the radio allowing it to access the full time, high current power. The radio itself will have a switched-power output to raise your antenna. This allows your modern radio to keep its memory, clock, presets, etc all alive. I also use switched power to turn on my Bluetooth adapter behind the dash. Thus, I can have this 70's era, stonking, Teutonic Bankrupt MP46 that can receive signals from the Cassini probe, and still have Bluetooth so I can play Salsa and Tango for my Spanish-speaking new wife.

Alfa was kind enough to sprinkle your dash with dimly lit idiot lights (generally invisible during the day) to remind you that your blower fan, wipers, turn signals, low beams or high beams, or seat vibrators are left on when you switch off. Generally, I'm focused on new wife at that point, looking forward to the evening, so just leave that crap running until the battery goes flat. That's why I have two other Alfas.
 

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Just put a new ignition switch into my ‘76 Spider, all is well on the starting front, thanks for the help.

Since I’ve purchased the car last year, none of the accessories seem to be controlled by the switch. I can run the heater fan, turn signals and wipers completely independent of the key switch. They are always “hot” so long as the battery is connected. I figured the new switch would solve this but no dice

Any ideas where to begin on this one? i did notice the ignition switch had two “30” or power in hookups, does this make a difference?
We just went through this on a similar thread recently about a missing fuse on #1... AR "bridged" the first 3 or 4 fuses to HOT all the time including the ignition switch. So when you flip a switch on these fuses you have electrons on tap without the ignition on. If you look at your wiring schematic and the fuse box cover the top of the first few fuses as noted will have a solid line bridging these fuses and the ultimate source the battery (sometimes diverted to the starter or alternator to get to the fuse bus) ..You could move some of these accessories to other fuses if it bugs you but I wouldn't go there.
 

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I've fitted a keyed battery switch , in line on the earth lead, on mine, stops any drain or risk of shorting, also works as an extra security device, the thought of leaving mine "live" would give me sleepless nights
 
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