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Moderator,

Could you please move to Spider section.

Maybe, we can get more help there.

Vin
 

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Ok, lets try this.

I just measured the distance between the oil cap and the hood.

Take a loosely packed ball of tin foil. Make a ball with it, loose, not tight.

Put a piece of tape on the oil cap and tape the ball to it.

Close the hood.

The hood is angled up so the ball should be pressed into a wedge.

In the middle, I measure 24mm.

Lets see where yours ends up. I am going to guess the engine is low.

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Hi vin,
I just opened the Forum to see your suggestion to measure distance to the closed hood (Bonnet) . . so will take a minute and check . . . in the meantime here's some better photos of the engine bay.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
"Take a loosely packed ball of tin foil. Make a ball with it, loose, not tight.

Put a piece of tape on the oil cap and tape the ball to it.

Close the hood.

The hood is angled up so the ball should be pressed into a wedge.

In the middle, I measure 24mm."


OK . . having done that, I measure 1.050" (26.67mm)
 

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I'm not all that familiar with the S4 model, but here are a couple of things that might be worth investigating.

1. Is it possible that a couple of the bolts that hold the compressor to the sump are loose (or unnecessary washers have been placed under the compressor/on the mounting pads)?

2. Is it possible that the idler pulley is not bolted tightly?

3. Can the positioning of the compressor and idler pulley be adjusted, even slightly, at their secure points? In other words, have you tried loosening the bolts that hold both of these items in place (with the belt off), and then moving them as far "out" as possible, and then re-tightening their bolts?

4. Is it possible that the idler pulley bracket is bent and thereby not providing the designed amount of tension on the serpentine belt?

5. Were different methods used to secure the AC compressor in the different years/models, and some PO installed an earlier version mounting setup on your car, i.e., replaced the motor (which changed the compressor mounting setup)?

6. I know you checked the diameter of the idler pulley, but did you check the diameter of the compressor clutch pulley? Many aftermarket or rebuild compressors are available that will "work" on these cars but do they all have the same sized clutch pulleys? What if your PO replaced the compressor or clutch pulley and the diameter of the replacement clutch pulley was incorrect?

I dunno, perhaps I'm grasping at straws here, but I'm following this thread with interest, and hope you figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm glad I'm not the only one who's perplexed. I've checked the idler pulley checking for play, or noise (worn bearing). The belt "tracks" centered over the idler while operating at a range of RPM . . . (not likely to do so if mount plate or bearing axle was bent or otherwise mis-alligned). The crank gang pulley appears to be original to the engine (as best I can see without engine removed). Same with the pulley on the power steering and compressor. However . . . A/C Compressor is difficult to assess because of it's location. Maybe ? ?

Anyway, the belt is not slipping for now, so I took it out, washed it, towel dried it, then took a very pleasant drive in the country on a warm and balmy summer evening.

Life is good, (For the moment), so will continue to drive it while I contemplate the problem.

I will certainly keep you posted on my progress. I think I might return to the 1st belt from NAPA (the one that was marginally too short). I want to see if I can gain a bit by completely removing the adjustment bolt, then re-install the bolt after installing the shorter belt.
 

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I think that Norseman is on the right track about the compressor mount. The s4's have 4 rubber bushings on the compressor mounts that become mush over time. You can see them by jacking up the passenger front side of the car. The mounting bracket to block bolts were also loose on mine. Replacing the bushings and tightening the bolts will test your patience but it's doable by us home mechanics without disconnecting the refrigerant lines.
 

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I'm not all that familiar with the S4 model, but here are a couple of things that might be worth investigating.

1. Is it possible that a couple of the bolts that hold the compressor to the sump are loose (or unnecessary washers have been placed under the compressor/on the mounting pads)?

2. Is it possible that the idler pulley is not bolted tightly?

3. Can the positioning of the compressor and idler pulley be adjusted, even slightly, at their secure points? In other words, have you tried loosening the bolts that hold both of these items in place (with the belt off), and then moving them as far "out" as possible, and then re-tightening their bolts?

4. Is it possible that the idler pulley bracket is bent and thereby not providing the designed amount of tension on the serpentine belt?

5. Were different methods used to secure the AC compressor in the different years/models, and some PO installed an earlier version mounting setup on your car, i.e., replaced the motor (which changed the compressor mounting setup)?

6. I know you checked the diameter of the idler pulley, but did you check the diameter of the compressor clutch pulley? Many aftermarket or rebuild compressors are available that will "work" on these cars but do they all have the same sized clutch pulleys? What if your PO replaced the compressor or clutch pulley and the diameter of the replacement clutch pulley was incorrect?

I dunno, perhaps I'm grasping at straws here, but I'm following this thread with interest, and hope you figure it out.
Lots of good ideas.

1. Has to be checked by OP but I doubt it.
2. Has to be checked by OP but I doubt it.
3. No adjustments.
4. Has to be checked by OP but I doubt it.
5. Same set up for S4's
6. Interesting. It wasnt the easiest measurement but I get 4.1" or 104mm.

Vin
 

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I think that Norseman is on the right track about the compressor mount. The s4's have 4 rubber bushings on the compressor mounts that become mush over time. You can see them by jacking up the passenger front side of the car. The mounting bracket to block bolts were also loose on mine. Replacing the bushings and tightening the bolts will test your patience but it's doable by us home mechanics without disconnecting the refrigerant lines.
My bushings were also pretty old so I replaced them using rubber hose.

Start at post 286. Lots of pictures of the bushings and bracket.

http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/294353-vins-s4-engine-rebuild-8.html

I cant believe that worn out bushings would cause this issue, but hey, who knows.

Vin
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Thanks guys, I think maybe, we're narrowing it down. . . I'm needing to correct another issue with a leaking seal on the Speedometer sending unit. I've been waiting to get it up on a friend's lift, so while I've got it up in the air, I can look at the compressor mounts . . . I'll bet I can fabricate new bushings if the ones under the mounting plate are mushy.

This car shows 50,000 miles and by appearance and general condition, even with the incomplete maintenance records that I have, I believe it to be original mileage. As I'm working thru these relatively minor issues, I wonder if it would be prudent to go in a bit deeper, and change the timing belt? The car runs great, and I've no reason to suspect an imminent failure, but I'd rather perform a preemptive maintenance, then a later necessary one . . . maybe with associated valve damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Never mind the question regards the "Timing Belt" . . . I've messed around too long with some other engines, not as robust in the engineering as these appearantly
 

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Just found this thread and my issue is related the the serpentine belt. As you can see from the photos the belt was rubbing against what looks to be the anti-sway bar. How can this be remedied before replacing the belt? Also the NAPA part # 25-050570 is the correct belt?
 

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Just found this thread and my issue is related the the serpentine belt. As you can see from the photos the belt was rubbing against what looks to be the anti-sway bar. How can this be remedied before replacing the belt? Also the NAPA part # 25-050570 is the correct belt?
Hi srguy,

I'm not seeing any pictures, but when the motor mounts get old and worn, they can compress and allow the crankshaft pulley (that drives the AC belt) to move down and make contact with the black suspension rod that runs across underneath it, just aft of the radiator. I'm guessing that if your serpentine belt is touching the round rod that spans from side to side underneath it, your motor mounts need to be replaced.

Cheers,
 

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Hi srguy,

I'm not seeing any pictures, but when the motor mounts get old and worn, they can compress and allow the crankshaft pulley (that drives the AC belt) to move down and make contact with the black suspension rod that runs across underneath it, just aft of the radiator. I'm guessing that if your serpentine belt is touching the round rod that spans from side to side underneath it, your motor mounts need to be replaced.

Cheers,
Couldn't get the photos to upload but that's what I suspected. The mounts look fine but the rubber isolation bushings appear to have compressed.
 
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