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Discussion Starter #1
There appears to be some interest in an AC delete bracket. Does anyone have a junk compressor to donate for measurement use?

I would like to try to put something together. It would be nice to be able to keep the car running while working with a spare.
 

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Veesix in OZ says that basically, you could just remove the a/c pump and move the alt down to that location ala Milano/GTV6 using the Milano/GTV6 brackets. Only question is whether or not the pulleys would line up, but since this a "get home solution", they could be off by a rib or so I suppose, as long the pulley ribs line up otherwise.

Says he has some v-6 engines (with the v-belt pulleys) set up this way for no a/c operation.

Anyone have an engine out who could try this setup to see what the real situation is?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/164-168-1991-1995/353481-la-seattle-here-i-come-3.html

I read about moving the alternator a while back. It's very helpful to see Pininos pics at the link above. That doesn't look too much like a "just to get it home" mod. That looks like it could work that way. Maybe just change the strap iron out with something more robust? I'm assuming that's in there for a little added stability?

I imagine an alt pulley could be changed to match the original belt if really desired, or is there a little bit of an alignment concern?
 

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The alternator belt is 5 rib, serpentine belt 7, so the pulley on the alternator would have to be changed to use a 7 rib belt, plus with Pinino's set up the belt is shorter.
 

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I don't think Pinino changed the pulley. This is "get home", so it doesn't have to be perfect for fit exactly. I don't think it would really hurt to run a 7 rib belt on the 5 rib alt pulley, or even the other way around. It's not driving the a/c pump any more, so the load should be quite a bit less. I'd just use a 5 rib I guess.
 

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Naturally I was thinking "get-home" fix for brewtech's woes, but Spitfire is correct, it could be permanent as well. It's a firm 3 point mount, one M8 and two M6 bolts. With this mod you must use a 5-rib serpentine belt (that's what I run with my Harrison SP15 compressor) because it matches the oem alternator pulley. I would think it's important to retain the (small) oem alternator pulley to keep the correct drive ratio. As laid out in the brewtech thread, the necessary serpentine belt length for this mod is 1015 mm (stock is 1065 mm). If anyone finds this too short (I found it to be perfect) there is also a 1030 mm that's readily available.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This sounds great for what I want to do with this car. Full blown repair of the ac just isn't going to bring much more satisfaction considering how I use it. There are still other battles anyway!

I'll report back when I get it running with this setup, most likely on the 5 rib belt. I agree on the pulley if changed. Keep the same diameter. I had under drive pulleys on the 5.0, and I changed the alt back to the original. Voltage dipped too low at idle.
 

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While I know this thread is about deleting the compressor altogether, the simple/fastest solution is to retain the compressor, working or not, and just put a new bearing on it. The bearing is a commonly available double row 35x55x20 mm unit ($30) available probably at just about any bearing shop.

The compressor does not have to be disconnected from the hoses to do this. Heck, the compressor clutch armature plate doesn't even have to be reattached to the compressor shaft. The only thing you need is the pulley, bearing and compressor body.

The bugaboo in all this, is the top compressor mounting bolt. It's commonly installed from the factory with the head towards the outer side of the car so it's impossible to get out without cutting the bolt and replacing it, denting the sheet metal, or loosening the engine mounts and raising the engine. The long bolt is NOT commonly available, although a common threaded rod standard english size (vs. metric) could be substituted as a temporary measure.

My advice is for owners to look at that bolt and see which way it's pointed. If the head is to the side of the car, then it's pretty much a lead pipe cinch that it's never been removed, and hence, the compressor pulley bearing is probably original. Might consider changing that bearing before taking any long trips. Unless you have some specially constructed tools, I don't see anyway of changing the compressor bearing without removing the compressor mounting bolts and rotating the compressor upright where the clutch armature plate can be removed and a bearing puller can be used.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
John, do you have the specs on the m10 bolt? Once it's out, if I follow correctly, it can be inserted the opposite way for either ac compressor install or alternator relocation.

Pinino, can you confirm the specs on that m6 bolt you reference. That appears tricky to get. Looks like m6x1.00 is much more prevalent than m6x1.25. Just want to check on that.
 

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John, do you have the specs on the m10 bolt? Once it's out, if I follow correctly, it can be inserted the opposite way for either ac compressor install or alternator relocation.
Yes, re-install it the opposite direction (nut towards the outside of the car).

Bolt specs:
10mm x 1.5 x 170mm (or 175mm)
Source:
metricmcc.com
 

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My only reservation to keeping a lame AC compressor in place albeit with renewed bearings, is that it still has to come out (for the bearing install) [#1], then go back in [#2], and if you want to really rebuild it later down the road, it will have to come out again [#3] and go back in [#4]. That's a lot of work. Mounting the alternator temporarily in the place of the compressor, the compressor comes out once, then, if you decide to overhaul it or replace it, it will go back in. If my assessment of the movement of the alternator move is 100% correct, there is really no futzing, damaging or modification of any of the stock parts. Of course it's your call.
 

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Food for thought.

Did Roadtrip say that one could just rotate the partially loosened a/c pump up to replace that bearing, or does it really have to be removed for bearing replacement? If it needs to be removed, I agree with just not putting it back in until some time later. Just move the alt down.

I wonder what the difference is between the Nachi bearing for ~$13 and the Nachi of the same size for ~$30? See both on eBay.
 

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I wonder what the difference is between the Nachi bearing for ~$13 and the Nachi of the same size for ~$30? See both on eBay.

This bearing is for the 12v 709. Is it also used in the 24v 715 compressor?
 

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I wonder what the difference is between the Nachi bearing for ~$13 and the Nachi of the same size for ~$30? See both on eBay.

This bearing is for the 12v 709. Is it also used in the 24v 715 compressor?
$17 I guess? Yes same bearing size on both.
 

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Yeah Steve, I kinda figured that out, but the pictures seem to show them with different colored seals. Thought there might be different temperature specs or something like that.
 
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