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1986 Spider Veloce
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264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Took off the AAV on my '86 Spider Veloce.

Per the BOSCH L-JETRONIC (SPIDER) guide I took it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner and did the freezer/oven test.

What I can't tell from the other threads is what a properly closed and properly open AAV looks like. There's lots of discussion, but I can't find any photos. Pictures work best for my brain.

I'm referencing this:
If it was working perfectly it'd be wide open when cold and fully closed when warm. I wonder if they even worked perfectly when they were new...
Eric does mention that would be it "working perfectly" and, by the second sentence, I'm guessing that 100% open or closed is rare.

For folks who have a working one - can you tell me if these photos below look anything like what you have? Is this even partially functional?

Photo below: Right out of the freezer for 20+ minutes.
Cold AAV


Photo below: Just after being in 150º oven for 10+ minutes. (had to hold with paper towels, too hot for skin)
Warm AAV


I'm also hoping that this can be used as a reference for others looking to compare their AAV with someone else's. Photos are more useful for me and it's hard to search for posts with photos in them on the forum - so I tagged this subject line with Photos for easier searching for others.
 

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Premium Member
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2,463 Posts
Took off the AAV on my '86 Spider Veloce.

Per the BOSCH L-JETRONIC (SPIDER) guide I took it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner and did the freezer/oven test.

What I can't tell from the other threads is what a properly closed and properly open AAV looks like. There's lots of discussion, but I can't find any photos. Pictures work best for my brain.

I'm referencing this:


Eric does mention that would be it "working perfectly" and, by the second sentence, I'm guessing that 100% open or closed is rare.

For folks who have a working one - can you tell me if these photos below look anything like what you have? Is this even partially functional?

Photo below: Right out of the freezer for 20+ minutes.
View attachment 1692867

Photo below: Just after being in 150º oven for 10+ minutes. (had to hold with paper towels, too hot for skin)
View attachment 1692868

I'm also hoping that this can be used as a reference for others looking to compare their AAV with someone else's. Photos are more useful for me and it's hard to search for posts with photos in them on the forum - so I tagged this subject line with Photos for easier searching for others.
Took off the AAV on my '86 Spider Veloce.

Per the BOSCH L-JETRONIC (SPIDER) guide I took it off, cleaned it with carb cleaner and did the freezer/oven test.

What I can't tell from the other threads is what a properly closed and properly open AAV looks like. There's lots of discussion, but I can't find any photos. Pictures work best for my brain.

I'm referencing this:


Eric does mention that would be it "working perfectly" and, by the second sentence, I'm guessing that 100% open or closed is rare.

For folks who have a working one - can you tell me if these photos below look anything like what you have? Is this even partially functional?

Photo below: Right out of the freezer for 20+ minutes.
View attachment 1692867

Photo below: Just after being in 150º oven for 10+ minutes. (had to hold with paper towels, too hot for skin)
View attachment 1692868

I'm also hoping that this can be used as a reference for others looking to compare their AAV with someone else's. Photos are more useful for me and it's hard to search for posts with photos in them on the forum - so I tagged this subject line with Photos for easier searching for others.
well, it does not look like it is opening very much but in my experience, no two are alike. I have seen good running cars with AAVs that do not open and close exactly the same.
 
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But Mad North-Northwest
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12,599 Posts
They usually move a bit more than that, IIRC, but at least it's moving. You may be able to get a bit more range by using the adjusting nut to shift the orifice a bit left in your photos, see here for what the internals look like:


The important thing is to make sure that, when fully hot, you set the idle to spec (dunno spec on the S3: 950 +/- 50, maybe? It'll be on the sticker under the hood. Use an external tach, don't trust the dash).

Then when the engine is cold you get what you get out of the AAV. Worst case it might idle a bit low for the first few minutes until the engine warms up.
 

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Premium Member
1986 Spider Veloce
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264 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for you guys for the confirmations and insight - that's kinda how I felt... looks like there's no consistant way these things work and they should move more then mine did.

You may be able to get a bit more range by using the adjusting nut to shift the orifice a bit left in your photos
So your point here is to make it so when it's hot it's closed fully, and live with a cold start that's a bit harder.
(I still haven't figured out my cold start issue in full. but 90% sure my CSI isn't firing and now I know my AAV isn't opening up fully - that all being said, with a decent amount of cranking I can get it started reliably even with both these things working against me 😬 )
 

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But Mad North-Northwest
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12,599 Posts
Kinda. It doesn't really matter if the AAV is partly open when hot, provided you can get the idle in spec with the idle bypass. At idle the total air is what you get through the AAV + the idle bypass. So if the AAV is a bit too open when hot you can just close down the idle bypass to compensate.

Now, if the AAV is too open when hot this won't work...

What I was thinking (looking at the shape of the orifice) is that if you shift that orifice a bit left in the photos it will make the AAV more open when the moving flap is in the "cold" position than it does when the flap is in the "hot" position. This could potentially give you more range in the AAV and let it boost the idle a bit more when cold. But if it's working okay now it may not be worth messing with it. Like I said, the most important thing is to get the idle in spec when fully hot.

The CSI not working will definitely make it harder to start when cold, I'd suggest troubleshooting that.
 
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