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Look, this is a complete fabrication......have the engine you want and enjoy it!
a wide body GTA replica.... ?
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Any period Nord engine from the late 60's early 70's is correct for the time in general. The 2 most correct engines are the 1300 and 1600 for that body, wide or not. A 1750 or 2 liter less correct but I agree with Stuart in that if you are building a street car do whatever floats your boat. Put AC in it with a big stereo and have fun!
No.
170hp is though. Also remember these cars are LIGHT and thus don't be embarrassed by low hp figures.
Pete
That all depends on where abroad one lives. For instance out here in Aus, or NZ or South Africa, in fact RHD is far more valuable and useable than LHD
If it were me, which of course it isn't I wouldn't go for the wide bodied look. To my eyes and IMHO they always look awkward, whereas the normal GTA (rep) look, is balanced as per the original design of the car. The added on flares look too kit car like.
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it can be done, but will be silly money. A TS will be cheaper.
But yes it will bet usable on the street.
I have seen around 160hp on carbs (40mm) at the wheels. my wife can go shopping with it (and she did..).
Engine was on stock pistons, that broke last race last year, now rebuilt with JE pistons almost finished.
But around 185 hp is no problem. calculate around 12.000 euro (?)
(that`s why I state that a ready car with a good engine aroun 20.000 is money well spend.
12.000 engine, than gearbox, axle, suspension, body, all the small bits to get it working, wheels , brakes.....
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depends on the street gas.. we still have 100 octane street gas here in europe, in germany nearly every gasstation at the autobahn has it.(not everywhere here in holland , but it is there.).
But I have seen more than just mine that had real 160 + at the wheels, what will be around 200 at the flywheel (with a good prepped car so not to much loss in the drivetrain, around 20% can be done)
It all is in the prep of the head, the flow etc. Just read the wonderful book of Jim K.
And still be drivable for shopping, yes really!
But still, go for around 185hp , around 140-150 depending on condition of drivetrain and you have a nice car for what you want.
But I have seen more than just mine that had real 160 + at the wheels, what will be around 200 at the flywheel (with a good prepped car so not to much loss in the drivetrain, around 20% can be done)
It all is in the prep of the head, the flow etc. Just read the wonderful book of Jim K.
And still be drivable for shopping, yes really!
But still, go for around 185hp , around 140-150 depending on condition of drivetrain and you have a nice car for what you want.
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Hallo Steve,
200 DIN-HP ! Why a problem. Its a question of the price you will spent on the engine.
In germany are more than 4 preparers able to reach 200 HP with custom made parts, for example every piston is different caused by the valve offset of the 2000 engine.
You never reach this performance with stock parts from ??? JE? Venolia ? Wiseco or whatever you use in the states . The dome-designe of the piston in relation to the camshaft and inletporting is the secret and nobody will tell you his experience of 10 years devellopment .
We develop in moment a 2000 with 86x86 ,crank F3, Sachs-MFX clutch, F3 rods , port-inlets,portliners in exhaust, 48,5mm inletvalves , catcams, Kugelfischerinjektion , for our GTAm to substitude the original GTAm engine . Problem always the same: crankshaft is to strong for alu- engineblock. Block works like a pamcake , horrible for headgasket and linebore of mainbearings.
regards
Uli
200 DIN-HP ! Why a problem. Its a question of the price you will spent on the engine.
In germany are more than 4 preparers able to reach 200 HP with custom made parts, for example every piston is different caused by the valve offset of the 2000 engine.
You never reach this performance with stock parts from ??? JE? Venolia ? Wiseco or whatever you use in the states . The dome-designe of the piston in relation to the camshaft and inletporting is the secret and nobody will tell you his experience of 10 years devellopment .
We develop in moment a 2000 with 86x86 ,crank F3, Sachs-MFX clutch, F3 rods , port-inlets,portliners in exhaust, 48,5mm inletvalves , catcams, Kugelfischerinjektion , for our GTAm to substitude the original GTAm engine . Problem always the same: crankshaft is to strong for alu- engineblock. Block works like a pamcake , horrible for headgasket and linebore of mainbearings.
regards
Uli
Just buy a car already done as I've said already. You can then add your finishing/refinement touches.
On a track (ie. where performance counts) a 180hp 105 series will be fast and put many modern cars to shame, as I said due to the light weight. Plus the car will be very, very reliable.
Pete
On a track (ie. where performance counts) a 180hp 105 series will be fast and put many modern cars to shame, as I said due to the light weight. Plus the car will be very, very reliable.
Pete
Agree.
Personally, and I know this is a very subjective area, I think they look clumsy and ruin the appearance of the car, but that's not surprising given they were clearly a pragmatic response to fitting wider rubber on the racing cars.
Moreso than most cars, it's not a body shape that takes well to changes, and almost any modification a backwards step aesthetically. I don't even like the big tailights the factory put on the 2000.
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**** right! Narrow body on Dunlop R tyres....totally proportionate.
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Absolutely, but without the extensions on the rear arches please.
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Well said....sorry I continued it!
hmm, ok where should i have posted this then?? it seems to be a popular thread though!
I like the look of the regular body with the rear arch extensions, this is a nice compromise...
Ok so the engine will be TS
The bodywork im thinking if the donor car hasnt got great panels i want to replace as many as possible in fibreglass (i am a huge fan of fibreglass cars)... all panels are available, e.g from Alfapanels
Im sure some of you will think this is a terrible idea, but the weight saving and repairability (and rust-proofness) will be great.....
I like the look of the regular body with the rear arch extensions, this is a nice compromise...
Ok so the engine will be TS
The bodywork im thinking if the donor car hasnt got great panels i want to replace as many as possible in fibreglass (i am a huge fan of fibreglass cars)... all panels are available, e.g from Alfapanels
Im sure some of you will think this is a terrible idea, but the weight saving and repairability (and rust-proofness) will be great.....
well let me be a little clearer..... its not a gta, gtaj ,or gtam chassis, it does not have a gta engine .... it has a twin spark.....
so really i don't know where ,but definetely not much to do with a gta ....
maybe in the gtv section ? i don't know .. just seems that it does not relate to anything to do with a gta.
but whatever ... no problem with me i'll just simply omit cheking daily this topic from now on in the GTA section.
i'm sure your project will turn out very nice though .
cheers.
so really i don't know where ,but definetely not much to do with a gta ....
maybe in the gtv section ? i don't know .. just seems that it does not relate to anything to do with a gta.
but whatever ... no problem with me i'll just simply omit cheking daily this topic from now on in the GTA section.
i'm sure your project will turn out very nice though .
cheers.
i see, well its a forum for discussion, and u cant always categorise a topic like that
discussion is good, and its not like were discussing something totally unrelated to GTAs... its pointless to bring this up really
u say its not anything to do with a GTA----except for the fact the whole point of the project is to make a GTA replica...!!
discussion is good, and its not like were discussing something totally unrelated to GTAs... its pointless to bring this up really
u say its not anything to do with a GTA----except for the fact the whole point of the project is to make a GTA replica...!!
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