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just had my car alined.. left camber.......-1.2 .... right camber....-0.6.......the question... buying a threaded upper arm at this point is kind of pricy... my thoughts... loosen the 4 lower contorl arm bolts form the frame of the car, and use shimes like they do on american cars..would this not work?:confused:.. thanks:)
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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Adding shims would push the lower control arm assembly further away from the chassis thereby decreasing camber (making it more negative).
 

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Hi Jim,

Ah, err... wouldn't moving the lower controll arm assembly (A-Arm) outward result in increasing negative camber?

Adding shims would push the lower control arm assembly further away from the chassis thereby decreasing camber (making it more negative).
 

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Trained (ex)Professional, , 1953-2018 RIP,
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Yes, adding shims would increase negative camber, same thing as decreasing camber (pehaps I should have written decreasing postive camber?) but I followed with 'making it more negative'.
Three different ways to describe the same net result.
 

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Was the camber checked with you (or your weight equivalent) in the car? The Alfa shop manual call for about 170 lbs in each seat. This should lower the car somewhat and changes the camber. Most setup specialists say to set it up as you drive it. If high speed driving is done with just you in the car then have the shop set it up with you (or your weight equivalent) in the driver's seat and the front and rear sway bars unhooked. Some manuals say to unhook the shocks also but that did not make a difference when I did the alignment on my spider. You WILL be suprised how much this changes the settings.

Randy Harris
'62 & '67 Spiders
'78 Sport Sedan
 

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Is the -1.2 out of spec? I don't have them handy.

I heard from Roger Kraus Racing a trick to alter camber small amounts is to loosen the lower ball joint/outer lower A-arm attachment bolts and shove/lever the lower part of the spindle in or out a bit, then retighten. This assumes there is a small amount of slop in the ball joint and lower outer A-arm holes. A bit scary though without guidance, because it's under pressure and you might go the wrong way.

Note, this does not mean removing the castellated nut on the taper joint of the lower ball joint.

Andrew
 

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Andrew makes a good point. For a street car -1.2 is a bit much. Better to bring the -1.2 into line with the -.6. As I recall, Alfa specs call for 0.0 +/-. Performance gurus like Rex Chalmers had my 105 spider set to -.75 with 1/16" toe in and it ran great like that on the street.

Good luck.

Randy Harris
 

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From the book

Toe In: .12" +/-.04" when RF is @ 14 minute (.22 degrees) angle

Camber: 20 minutes (.33 degrees) +/-30 minutes (.5 degrees) and a max difference between RF and LF of 40 minutes

Caster: 1 degree 30 minutes (1.5 degrees) +/-20 (.33 degrees) minutes and a max difference between RF and LF of 20 minutes
 
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