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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I’ve been meaning to post this thread for the longest time…so here goes. Last year (while surfing the net) I came across the ALFABB and the fond memories that were resurrected of my previous GTVs, made me decide to get back into one again.. (after about an 18 year abscence). Initially I thought to limit my search to local cars only. A few GTVs were available and after checking them out and driving them I realized that I wasn’t going to be happy spending maybe $ 6-8 K on a rusty GTV with worn out interior, botched up wiring, unknown mechanical condition and…and…and…If I was going to spend over $10K on an +30year old car….I might as well look for a project car from southern (salt free) states which (hopefully) would be relatively rust free (in the key critical areas at least) and which I was going to restore in as pristine a condition as my abilities (and budget) would allow. In my younger days I had restored a ‘71 FIAT 124 Sports Coupe and then a ‘72 1300 GT Junior with very limited budget …this time around I feel will be much more enjoyable.

My search ended last February after negotiating for a 1969 US Series 1750 GTV in Alfa color AR342 (French Blue)…the PO had convinced me to buy this in lieu of his other ‘69 ocra yellow GTV..and since I was only looking at photos I figured he probably knew better. I had the car shipped from the southwest to Buffalo and then drove down and trailored it back home across the border, about an hour’s drive away. I will be posting photos of the work as it progresses. For starters….these are the first pictures……

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Classic car Coupé
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Classic car Hood


Automotive piston Auto part Metal
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Classic car Coupé
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
...Damian that hay grew all around the car...even between the innner and outer fender skirt cavities...but I'll get to that later. I started with a teardown (or should I say a tearout) of the interior...and when I got to the carpets, I was left with not much more than dust as it disintegrated in my hands! (sorry I didn't get a picture of that). The rear trunk mats are the rubber type, but was as brittle as plastic...need to find a good set of those somewhere. When removed...found the trunk in this condition...

Water Gas
Vehicle Fender


..which was a pleasant surprise....most of the ones I've seen around our parts have significant rust in this area. The tank came out and will get cleaned in the latter stages of the project.

Vehicle Car Hood Trunk
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
...thankfully, most of that brown material in the trunk is not rust but the adhesive used to hold the rubber mats (the normal colour for that should be yellow) but this car must have been sitting in some pretty hot sun for a long time..in order to turn all the rubber and soft plastic into......well brittle plastic.....

.....drivers side of the car from rear to front. The exposure to the elements pretty much removed most of the enamel on the top side of the car, I sprayed some cheap red primer over it for the time being...

Tire Automotive tire Wheel Auto part Automotive wheel system
Land vehicle Vehicle Car Blue Automotive tire



....original rockers...no filler to be seen ( or heard at all!).....so far so good! ......
Vehicle Car Hood Fender Automotive exterior
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
..this side looks not too bad.....but I'll have to pull the quarter panel off (which I'll get to later)......

Blue Automotive exterior Bumper Hood Vehicle



...and now the ugly!....(OK the interior was pretty ugly as well)....but this was not expected at all. Seems like the car suffered a front end hit at some point in it's life. The front nose panel was replaced as was the right quarter but not the inner panels (the photo actually looks better than in real life). The rad closure panel was left off, and no paint was added to the inside of the new pieces. The battery tray has seen better days as well. This area I've already fixed with new pieces....(I'll post the repair later on)......

Rust Automotive exterior Vehicle door Bumper Auto part



...the floors I was crossing my fingers and hoping that since the rockers and sills were in such great condition, that it too would be. But I'm guessing the windows were kept down for a while allowing rain to pour in and onto the carpets....you've all seen this before I'm sure......obviously I'll need to put in new rear floor sections.

Rust Metal
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Excellent choice! The car looks very solid and will make a great restoration project. Best of all it is that real pretty blue that we don't see to many of. :)
Thanks Christopher. At first I was actually contemplating changing it to something more common...but over the course of working on the car....this colour has grown on me...it has great depth and richness and should look great when finished.

..a few more early pics...

Engine Auto part Vehicle Car


..one of the problem areas was created by the collection of debris under the valence and at the back edge of the hood thereby trapping moisture.

Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper Vehicle Engine


...resulting in a very badly rusted valence...which will be replaced with one that I picked up from Joecautela...

Wood


..and a very rusted area on the hood as well....the hood is being replaced with a clean rust free one that I picked up from GTA ALFA...

Blue Hood Paint Automotive exterior Electric blue
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
..like the hood, the trunk lid forward edge fell victim to the effects of trapped debris. Up in the North here we usually see the aft edge of trunks rusted out, this trunk's aft edge is clean and rust free...
Blue Hood Vehicle Car


..but the entire forward edge is rusted right through on the inside structure......

Rust Automotive exterior Bumper Gas


...I wonder if this engine lived a hard life....the heavy oil on the outside does seem to indicate that. I hope I won't find any bad surprises in there.

Auto part Engine Automotive engine part Vehicle Transmission part
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Christopher, I did own a 1750 GTV with carbs 18 years back.. and it is as you say a real delight to drive....expecially on the track.

Papajam, it'll be because of guys like you who've been willing to save some of these out of production parts for all these years that'll make the restoration a lot easier than it would otherwise have been....so thanks to you again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The last couple of cars I restored I had to do all the repair welding with an oxy/acetylyne torch. The setup allowed for perfectly acceptable welds except that on the heavy gauge metal, a lot of heat was required and more time is required to apply as well. After reading some of restoration threads on this BB, I was convinced that a MIG welder with an Argon/Co2 gas would be the best all around set-up to use. I picked up this used Lincoln SP135( it was repainted and tuned up) from a welding Rental outfit that at times sells some of their surplus machines. I also bought a self darkening Helmet as recommended by a few on this BB.

Machine


Not having used one of these before I practiced on numerous small pieces of clean sheet metal first so as to get a feel for the wire speed and voltage settings. The first repair I thought to tackle was that of the valence panel tabs which were badly rusted ....



as were some of the areas were the mounting screws are attached. I cut out the small areas with a dremmel tool using the small oxide cut-off wheels (it cut through this very thin material very easily...to my surprise)..

Bumper Automotive exterior Metal


...I used short bursts of tack welds (letting each cool down in between) and welded on both sides of the repair pieces. If I had to do this with the oxy/acetylene I dare say that it would have been much harder for me to do...with the MIG, there was very little heat build-up on the part...

Automotive exterior Bumper
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Will, my MIG has Argon/Co2 and hence does not produce any slag at all...and so the welds end up very clean. Are you using a flux-core MIG machine? I wouldn't want to be cleaning the flux off of metal this thin....would be a real chore. As for the power situation, I was wanting to keep this car all original with the Spica FI, my previous GTVs were carburetted so I don't know how it'll compare till I drive it....but I'm not really looking to rebuild this into an all out street machine anyway. As for photos, I'll probably be asking for some for sure so thanks for the offer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Update time...the inner front panel needed straightening and the only way to do this properly was to remove everything that would be in the way. I ground away the bondo and cut with a 4.5 inch cut-off wheel along the previous repair weld line.
Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper Car Fender
Vehicle Car Automotive exterior Bumper Fender


..front panel removed..and inner diapragham pieces being dissambled...
Automotive exterior Vehicle

..front will get acid dipped.....
Automotive exterior Auto part Bumper Rust

...example of how not to weld the front panel on. This one was lap welded and the excess left on so as to be a good moisture trap...resulting in some bad rusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I brought the front panel out to get acid cleaned at TECHNOSTRIP While I was there I saw a LANCIA FULVIA chassis that had been dipped and it looked great....so nice to work with clean rust free metal. They quoted me a cost of $2,000 to do a whole car, doors and all. In my case I don't believe it needs this radical a cleaning. The front panel is a thin piece and I didn't want to wirewheel it clean so I thought I'd try it to see if the results merit the expense...didn't realize they had a minimum cost of $100...but the end result looked great..

Automotive exterior Bumper Auto part Vehicle


Bumper Automotive exterior Auto part Vehicle Car


...almost looks new...
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Thanks for the encouraging words guys.

$100? That was a bargain for how clean the part came out. If you have gone this far, you might want to look into the rocker panels to see if there is rust inside. That $2000 for the whole car might start to look pretty inexpensive. ;)

I am also enjoying the thread watching one of my cars twins being put back on the road. Watching all of these cars being restored has me wanting to make a rotisserie now and doing my GTV up right and not half baked when it comes to the body prep.

Are you going with a glue in or rubber gasket windsheild?
Velocedoc...the 69's came with the rubber gasket windshields...I think the 2000 GTV's had the glue in style. As for acid dipping the whole car....yeah it looks tempting to have a completely stripped/clean car to work with but in my case the heavy rust is contained to floors only and other areas have surface rust so I didn't want to get into the potential "acid seepage issues" related to dipping...also saving that extra $2K on dipping will allow that me to put that money into the paint job.

Rossano --

Great looking job, thanks for sharing the story.

But I have a question, especially for all the '69 GTV aficiandos here: is this not a '71? That engine block number may indicate a '69, but the large tail-lights and maybe the flushnose (weren't '69s step-nose?) indicate a '71, at least to me. I look to be corrected, perhaps.

Otherwise, Rossano, lead on!!
Alfonse2...I'm not the expert on the variants for the GTV's but as far as I know, the 69 US GTV came with the smaller red over red tailights and the flushnose. In 70-71 they switched over to the larger tailight lens and hanging petals (twin Bonaldi boosters were discontinued), they also introduced the Fuel cut-off switch on the SPICA pump and other changes I'm sure were introduced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 · (Edited)
I'm lovin this thread. Can't wait to see whats next.
Simon, I do have more pics of work done so far to share ..but I'm out of town for the next couple of weeks so I won't be able to post anything till then.
 
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