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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
with no record of coil packs being changed based on all the ppwk i got from previous owner (110K miles). Injector electrical plugs were brittle and falling apart. I ordered new ones from Vics and spliced wires and soldered the new ones on. Now it is alot worse, skipping and ticking noise from coil packs in addition to some arcing i noticed. any ideas...? is it a coincidance or did i do something wrong here? is there anything else that can cause that before i go and spend $700 on new coils?
 

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not really normal as you describe

I think a lot of people change out coil packs unnecessarily.

First, remove the front bank of coils and plugs and check the plug gaps. Should be 0.025" with the OEM NGK plugs

Second, put all back together with the front cover OFF and start the car in a dark garage. If the fronts are sparking you will see it. If no sparking from the fronts, you are good. If they are sparking, then use silcone sealant, or some other insulator (mylar sheet is what Del uses) around the coil packs between the coils and the head.

Once you have the fronts all fine, if the car still SNAPS (arcing sound) then remove the plenum, set rear gaps, and use your front coils in the rear. Button everything back up and put the rears in the front and repeat.

I always try to get the offending coil onto the front with known good ones in the rear.

If you are motivated to spend , get 3 new packs for the rears, and play swapola for the fronts--- Alfa Parts | Alfissimo International | has coil packs at a good price!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Follow up

Thanks Goats, that was what i was thinking buying three for now. The arcing is apparant in the front, the ticking noise is worse on the rear bank. Now, this just started after i replaced wires so i doubt it is related to spark plugs. How do you seal coils, i am not sure i understand? btw are you the gentelman that fixes the HVAC displays on those cars or am i mistaken you for someone else?
 

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yes thats me

I fix the LCD displays

Trust me-- take the front plugs out and check the gaps. put antiseize on the plug threads and use a torque wrench, 21 ft/lbs to replace the plugs.

if the coils are arcing, that means that the insulation is probably breached somewhere on the coil plastic. You can use epoxy or silicone sealant to seal any cracks in the plastic. Or, you can cut a sheet of mylar in a circle about 5 inches in diameter, and put a hole in the center just large enough for the plug connector to get thru, and remount the coils-- or you can do both seal and make the external insulator for a 'belt and suspenders' fix.
 

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1991 164L
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Fuel injectors have +/- pins

Look closely at an Alfa 164 Bosch fuel injector and you will see that the + postive pin is left pin. There is a + sign molded into left side of terminal point of injector body.

This is red wire on 164. Did you get color coded wires in new connectors?

Red wire has to go to + pin on both 12v/24v injectors

On 24v V6 injectors the negative (-) pin is grounding (pulsing) and trigger wires from ECU are gray-red for three injectors and yellow-red for other three injectors. This is not marked on injector just + pin side is marked

On 12v V6 injectors negative ground (pulsing) trigger wires from ECU are yellow for all 6 injectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you goats for the tips. I might try that this wknd. Steve, the connectors i got were not color coded so how can i figure out whats what here?
 

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1991 164L
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Thank you goats for the tips. I might try that this wknd. Steve, the connectors i got were not color coded so how can i figure out whats what here?
Red wire has to be soldered to new left side terminal wire in new connector to match/hook to + terminal on left side of injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thank you steve for the clarification. I will give that a try this wknd and hope for the best. I will report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I tired but still....

so i took Steve's advice and checked the polarity on the injector plugs and found that i swetched wires on three of them. I got excited thinking that was the culprit and after fixing the wiring......well, still the same problem. It is funny thu cause it does it only after running for a few minutes...meaning when it si warm or hot. So now im going to have to get 3 coils which was my original plan as well as Goats recommendation and change the rear coils since they seem to be acting up more than the front one's....fun fun.
 

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1991 164L
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So are those three injectors still working when engine gets warmed up? Maybe you should test those three connectors with NOID tester to be sure they pulse (trigger). Oh forget this step unless all three injectors where on same color coded trigger wires.

You could also test injectors themselves one at a time by removing connectors to those three one at a time with engine idling and see if enigine lugs down any at all if not then injector may not be working.

Also did you remove, inspect,clean and pack with dielectric grease the connectors to two coil amplifiers on air cleaner box mounting bracket?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Coil Amps?

Hey Steve, thankx for the tips, but do you really think its might be injectors and not coils? why does it get worse when engine gets warmed up? now where are those amplifiers on the airbox bracket and what do they look like? i did remove the filter before so may be i messed something up.
 

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2015 Chevy (Holden) SS, 1989 Milano (Shankle Sport), 1991 164S
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They are underneath the filter box. Two multiconnectors. These connectors are in a very vulnerable location subject to water and dirt coming past the left (driver's) side of the radiator, etc. They can be a common problem for the 94/95 cars. My LS had this same sort of problem until I cleaned and lubed with dielectric grease every connection in the engine compartment, esp those two large connectors. I'm convinced they were the main problem.
 
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