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No matter what, you need to pull the fender liner to set TDC on crank. I like your mod, I did similar when pulleys were slipping on cams..
 

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Discussion Starter #222
As I see it, the timing blocks are essential. Today I changed the clutch and timing belt on my 916 Spider. At one time, if the car ran great before the timing belt and the timing blocks were a very close fit, I would call it good. Yet, I experienced a rough idle, cured with having the exact fit in each timing block. Today, the left exhaust cam was not an exact fit in the cam block. So, I broke the taper on that cam and made for the exact alignment.

Thanks for frequent sharing of progress on your project!
Sharing the details prevents me from working in a vacuum. If I share it with friends while working, it degrades to discussing the merits of beer wine and cheese. :) with not much progress. Today is such a day :)

I think its fair to say that belt tension changes pulley alignment....cam timing.....Because my pulleys are pre marked, allowance for pulley movement is made at the start when installing the belt. one or two teeth on front bank 2 or three teeth on rear bank. as belt tension increases, after some trial and error pulley marks come into alignment. Not sure what the normal range of motion is, cold engine V hot engine, but I would deduce that marks out of alignment indicate, at minimum, a change in belt tension.

916 uses the 166 setup with pump on crank and different adjuster to 164, is that correct.
 

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Discussion Starter #223 (Edited)
No matter what, you need to pull the fender liner to set TDC on crank. I like your mod, I did similar when pulleys were slipping on cams..
that's got be a hard one to chase down. Do you tighten to specified torque or give them an extra tweak?
overall I would say the if, through the observation windows :), I can see that marks have moved, fair to say, that wheel well is coming out.
I started a new thread about eccentric pully slipping, hoping someone can come up with a way of locking it into place. 59 ftlb of torque does not reassure me,


perhaps a cut out in the wheel well cover to allow access...not there yet, will see what happens.
 

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916 uses the 166 setup with pump on crank and different adjuster to 164, is that correct.
Yes, correct.

A major drawback that I ran into is that the 916 uses the common engine setup with the 166, with tradeoffs. While the 166 alternator (mounted where the 164 PS is located) can be removed/replaced easily. The 916 requires dropping the sub-frame with a huge effort. The only consolation for me is that the clutch was due for renewal and showed signs of going soon.
 

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That's a good looking car, nice in Blue or is it black? either way beautiful car. Transplanted a 24v in there? must fly:)
Yes, Pozzi blu. Yes 24V, there are a few old youtube vids out before paint and interior work. The calculated 0-60 is 4.3 seconds, which is probably about right. It flys.
 

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Discussion Starter #229
ok I remember that from Ferrari chat!!! most Lancias and Alfas have chassis that can "out perform " the base engines. How did the extra weight of the 24v effect the Montecarlo. one blip and round she goes? watched the videos. Great car.
 

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The extra weight should be only about 100 lbs. However, the 24V engine is sorta top heavy, so the CG might have changed a bit. This would be balanced by moving the fuel tank up front. The tires are grippy and the engine is not too powerful. The back end can break loose on a corner if desired.

I hear about those with the twin spark 164 speak about how it handles better that the V6 versions. Because the weight difference is not much, I have to contend it is more about the top heavy V6 hanging out in front of the front wheels. Because these FWD engines hang so far forward, they are perfect for transplant into a mid-engine project. I actually had a desire to transplant the Alfa V6 into this car before the 164 was available and had to contemplate how to mate the transmission rather than use the 164 transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #231
great project...congrats on realizing it.
Always liked the idea of 24V in the Stratos, having had experience with the Dino engine, would love to sample and compare the Alfa variants. Even if copies.
 

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Discussion Starter #232
Still waiting for cam blocks. No luck with rear wheel removal. However, oil cooler lines connected and installed, time to test the oil pump
Filled her with pil, Removed timing belt, attached a socked to drill and started spinning the pump, not fast. Before long I good hear a little gurgle here a little gurgle there. Looked at the cams and could see oil arriving at a steady clip. . At this time I also could see a rather large puddle of virgin oil on garage floor. I had not installed the oil pressure sender. I can confirm pump is pumping and oil flow is definitely there! Once timing blocks arrive, I can close her up. The cams are aligned on marks. Just want to wear belts and braces.
 

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Discussion Starter #233
blocks arrived today... marked as follows
C1-A-DX-1-CIL which I take to mean: Intake Cam Right Side Cylinder 1
C2-S-DX-1-CIL. Exhaust Cam, Right Side, Cylinder 1
C3-SX-6-CIL Intake Cam Left Side Cylinder 6
C4-S-SX-4-CIL Exhaust Cam, Left Side, Cylinder 4

So cylinder 1 gets two and cylinders 4 and 6 get one each. Does that sound about right?
 

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Discussion Starter #235
I found this reference at the Alfa workshop site the reference #'s for the tool brands are different but the bearing cap and locking tool positions are the same.
https://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_v6_cam_belt.shtml
And more info here.
https://www.mackay.co.uk/media/manuals/sealey/VS4890.pdf
I realize this information is 166 specific but still usable I would think.

Cheers
Thank you yes information helps.

With number 1 piston at TDC both Eldon and Laser tools use this numbering system
A1 Inlet cylinder 1
A2 Exhaust cylinder 1
A3 Exhaust cylinder 4
A4 Inlet cylinder 6

1 and 2 agree,
3 and 4 are reversed.

should get to it on Monday.
nevertheless, with 1 on TDC and the cam markings I should be able to sort which is which.
 
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