I've got an appointment Monday for a rebalancing . In the meantime, I've removed the front 7mm wheel spacers. Not possible on rear, but enough clearance up front. Haven't driven it yet without spacers. That'll be today.
Poly bushing for gearshift link on its way. My hand made unit is working ok, but I don't trust it for long service.
EB Spares responded. No stock on link, no bushing. Oh well.
It started early by driving up to Sparks, NV. As we are fond of noting around here, Reno isn't exactly Hell, but you can see Sparks from there. Bought a lap steel guitar for the band I'm gradually inserting myself into. Slowly.
Then, went by Herbert Machine to see how my pile of 102 engine stuff was coming along. The cart the pile is sitting on had been moved about 5m meters further into the shop, so we'll call that progress. Probably had more to do with clearing the drive-in door it had been blocking, but positive thinking never hurts. I dropped off a set of truly NOS exhaust valves for the engine (YELLOW Alfa Ricambi box!), and new stainless intakes, plus some buckets to use for checking sizes. No word on when they'll get to it. Visiting Herbert is always a treat. No exaggeration - about 80% of the engines they work on are ones I've never seen, and in many cases, heard of. V8 Ferraris would be in the "normal" category for what they do. When I was there previously they had a huge V8 strapped into their Dyno with the largest Rootes supercharger I've ever seen. I glanced around to see if the walls were line with Kevlar. Wouldn't want to be standing, unarmored, nearby with that engine running at full wonk.
After returning, I took a deep breath and tackled the shift link bushing. Quickly decided to take out the whole link. Entirely doable, but someone with hands half my size should be on the payroll. Finally got a pair of vice grips on the shank of the wobble-ball stud on the inner end, and made quick work of the friction nut using my air driver. This had me fitting my hands through tiny openings, unable to twist them due to my wrist being too large for the opening, and working cross-handed with the flashlight in my teeth.
After several aborted tries, decided to grind/sand a bit of a bevel on the leading end of the bushing. It had a tiny bevel, but without the right sort of tooling to keep everything square, it wouldn't work. The little bit of beveling worked, and POP! goes the weasel.
Put all that back in, made easier by undoing the steering link to the left wheel. Easier than I expected to pop the bushing over the ball, but it was doable.
Now - a glass of Rose, a dog to pet, dinner made for me, hands deserving of a massage, and a good day put to bed.
After an engine swap, I start with short drives, and let the confidence grow. Mostly happy so far.
With no AC, it wants to idle around 1,200, so in a day or two I’m going to reset the idle settings in the ECU. That worked on the previous engine, although it required a few iterations.
Getting wheels re-rebalanced has improved my pleasure significantly. Now it doesn’t bounce down the road between 75-85. However, the low-profile 17” tires, plus what I think are lower/stiffer springs, diminishes the relaxation quotient to an extent. I commented the other day that if I drive over a discarded condom, I can tell whether it’s smooth or ribbed. This Saturday I’ll be going by Walmart to have new tires put onto a set of 16” teledials and see if the taller sidewalls help. I discovered WM selling the 16” Pirelli P7 Centurato All-Season Plus tires for $83/each, so why not?
I’ve got another order developing with Giuseppe, so detailing continues. I’m not happy with the radio or front speakers, so am getting closer to figuring that out.
This car gives the impression of having been in the care of a teenage boy with his father’s credit card. Expensive, but ill-considered modifications. So far, all reversible.
I thought I had zero oil leaks, but I spotted a tiny gathering on the ground at the forward edge of the engine. It could easily have been from a slight spill during filling, or left over from previous engine removal. I’ve got about 100 miles on the car since the engine was swapped, and no apparent reduction on the dipstick. Yes, I will be monitoring that closely.
I’ve shifted my shop schedule to:
Replace front seal in 115 Spider convertible top.
Fit a high-quality aftermarket hard top to the same 115 because why not. I bought it for $200, and it looks quite good! I don’t intend to take the 916 with me to South America, but the 115 might go.
Rebuild dead TS engine. I’m hoping the crank will stand a regrind and I can just put it all back together. Rod being redone as well, of course.
Assemble a spare 102/2000 engine, if the crank I just bought will pass a regrind.
Rebuild my spare Montreal engine so I can sell it.
Rebuild my spare 115 engine in case I want to ship it with the car to Colombia.
Rebuild another 102-2000 as a spare for my actively driven 59.
My 156v6 is fairly stiffly sprung. In fact my father commented on the rear suspension bump stops after our trip south, as he felt the rear wheel was trying to leave imprints on his backside over a couple of serious bumps. I do find it a little stiff some times ... I have the 17" wheels as that is part of the Monza spec (I believe).
Do any of you sainted souls know the precise diameters that the 2.0 crank can be ground down to? The overhaul manual lists the "color" sizes, which is an old Alfa way to avoid throwing away cranks that didn't quite finish on a single spec back at the factory. I note the Alfa Workshop lists undersized bearings, but it's a bit risky to just guess at the machine shop before ordering the bearings.
Of course, there are industry standards like ".25 mm", ".5mm", etc, but then in aviation (where crankshafts can cost as much as a new car) we sometimes use a .003" undersized grind.
I'm going to keep looking around, but maybe it's on the tip of your tongue?
Don I remember the bearings being hard to obtain so maybe you should be thinking of securing the bearings first and then matching the crank to them rather than the other way around.
I'm no specialista on that so ignore if its a stupid comment.
For what its worth I would just get hold of that good standard crank you said Giuseppe had.
Went to Walmart with newly painted wheels, ie two weeks ago.
Agreed to “road hazard” insurance.
Confirmed Pirelli P7 All Season Plus date codes were recent.
Neglected to buy more wine
Returned to auto center.
Found a huddle discussing two wheels with multiple large gouges around the perimeter, but one that got the tire mounted with no scratches.
Stayed cool, but intolerant of efforts to blame wheels.
Demanded, and got, signed letter to compensate me for the cost to refinish two wheels. $175.
Took one mounted wheel/tire and three unmounted pairs home.
Regretted lack of sufficient soporific.
Don sounds like that the tire monkeys used Iron tools on your rims ( A good Tire Shop that uses the plastic mounting head ) some shops call it a DUCK on the rim clamp tire changer.
and to your question yes I can have the sexy Italian over here I do have three more 105 Alfas The 916 is my 9th sold four last year down sizing every thing Ron
Actually, they showed me the “new” plastic duck. I’m not familiar with that system, but it certainly scraped away a significant amount of paint, and almost looks like it scratched the underlying aluminum. The first tire/wheel they did worked OK.
I prefer to powder coat wheels. Much harder. The restorer I used claimed to employ a high-quality catalyzed paint, so maybe I’ll take the damage claim money and start over with powder coat. Grrr.
I have never scratched a wheel with a plastic duck but I also use a high quality mounting compound most don't even use water so they will tear beads and damage rims then try to blame the rims I put new Michelin primacy on my 916 after I got it home NO MARKS on the rims