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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I'm starting to rebuild my engine (115k miles) and am shooting to follow in the footsteps of MSiert's black spider so I figured I would log my progress here in order to keep a decent record for myself, share what I'm doing with you all, and hopefully get some expert advice along the way.
Here's what I'm doing:
  • Top End professionally rebuilt by Dan Marvin at Norman Race Group
  • Bottom End (Most of this stuff is in the Spruell Bottom End Kit)
    • JE 1mm Oversize "Apple Bite" Pistons (
    • Gapless Second Ring
    • Carillo I Beam Rods
    • Reinze Gasket Set
    • New Cast Liners (Competition Grade)
    • Block Oil Restrictor Set
    • Viton O-Ring Set
    • STD Size Bearings
    • Iwis Upper and Lower Chains
    • New Water Pump
    • Windage Tray
    • Crank Polished and Oil Galleys Cleaned and Tapped for Socket Head Screw Plugs (Local Machine Shop)
    • Oil Block Drilled for Direct Oiling of #2 and #4 Bearings with Bearing Modification (Local Machine Shop)
    • Everything Balanced (Local Machine Shop)
    • Oil pump purpose built by Gordon Raymond
    • New Oil Pan (Mine has cracks)
  • Intake
    • Custom Intake Manifold made by me
    • 45mm ITB's from Omex (Plus all the other goodies from their throttle body + ECU kit)
  • Exhaust
    • Spruell Headers (Ceramic Coated)
    • Rest of system TBD
  • Drive Train
    • Uprated Driveshaft Donut (Kevlar reinforced)
    • 7.5lb Aluminum Flywheel
    • Sachs Pressure Plate
    • Organic Raybestos Clutch
  • Minor Transmission Overhaul, replace all seals, 2nd gear synchro, and other components as needed
  • Engine Control and Fueling done by Omex 600 ECU plus all the hardware in their kit
  • Misc
    • Small Mishimoto Oil Cooler w/ Thermostatic Control (Will mount where AC condenser was)
    • New Starter
    • Coil Pack for Wasted Spark Control and Distributorless System from Omex
Ideally, I'll be detailing each step as I do it.This won't be a How-To thread as a lot of those already exist, but instead information on all the steps and why. This should end being a very fun engine once I'm done and I'm looking forward to getting this done. This is a first for me so I'm excited to learn everything along the way!
 

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You can't do better than a head from Dan.
Have you built an Alfa engine before? Various things to make sure of including liner registers, liner protrusion, bearing clearances, valve/piston clearance and head/piston clearance. Etc.
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After following Vin's very thorough engine thread I have gone ahead and removed the engine. It was actually pretty straight forward and much easier than I thought 😁
1659508
I just about got turned into a human rag!

Then I started disassembling the engine and separated the head so that I could get it stripped. Somehow there is an inch of grime on just about everything. Just looking at it gets you dirty :mad:.
Once the head was off I stripped it of everything other than the valves to save Dan sometime. I also spent a few hours cleaning it up so that he could at least pull it out of the box without hating me...

Once I get my intake back from my machinist I'll be boxing everything up and sending it to Berkeley.
1659509


Up next is spending a whole lot of time de-greasing my engine block and the oil pans so I can actually work on them!
 

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Murray's motor makes peak power between 7000 and 7500 rpm. You may want to consider direct oiling of #2 and #4 main bearings and race spec connecting rods if you plan to copy his setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
You can't do better than a head from Dan.
Have you built an Alfa engine before? Various things to make sure of including liner registers, liner protrusion, bearing clearances, valve/piston clearance and head/piston clearance. Etc.
Andrew
This is my first engine build ever... luckily I have a few people that have done this before near by that are willing to help out and keep me out of too much trouble.

Murray's motor makes peak power between 7000 and 7500 rpm. You may want to consider direct oiling of #2 and #4 main bearings and race spec connecting rods if you plan to copy his setup.
Forgot to mention that I am getting Carillo rods. By direct oiling of the bearings do you mean drilling holes into the oil pan to do this or is there something else I'm missing?

So I have to ask, are you in Calif and is this a street motor?
Andrew
I'm now in Colorado in a non-smog county so I'm not too worried about smog anytime soon. The California plates are getting replace once I'm done!
 

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Forgot to mention that I am getting Carillo rods. By direct oiling of the bearings do you mean drilling wholes into the oil pan to do this or is there something else I'm missing?
The holes are in the block. A search should lead you to pictures. The problem is lack of lubrication to the rod bearings that are fed through the main bearings and the crankshaft galleys. It is not an issue on motors that briefly see 7000 rpm on up shifts but it is a real problem for motors that go beyond 7000 or are held at high rpm.
 
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This is pretty exacting machine work but someone like Norman Racing etc, any experienced Alfa race shop, can handle it.
Andrew
 

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Did you say what compression you were shooting for? Mine was done to 10.4 compression and I found pump gas was not enough.

I found that my # 4 cylinder was having incomplete combustion, the rest were good just the #4 had the problem? I found that going to 100 octane solved the problem.

Im guessing to why only the # 4 was a problem and the only suggestion was that typically the # 4 runs hotter then the rest???

Its not to much of a hassle blending fuels but it’s certainly not as handy as pulling up to any gas station to fuel up.

Maybe 10.1 wouldn’t have that problem?
 

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Maybe gas is better in South Carolina than in Nebraska:)

My CR is 10.7 and that was measured by me by cc'ing each cylinder with a burette containing ATF. I blew a head gasket on the dyno when it went grossly lean at WOT. That gasket was replaced by a no name one of unknown pedigree and it lasted 7k miles. Examination showed just poor gasket quality and no sign of detonation. I use 93 octane pump gas all year round with max advance of 34 BTDC.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you say what compression you were shooting for? Mine was done to 10.4 compression and I found pump gas was not enough.

I found that my # 4 cylinder was having incomplete combustion, the rest were good just the #4 had the problem? I found that going to 100 octane solved the problem.

Im guessing to why only the # 4 was a problem and the only suggestion was that typically the # 4 runs hotter then the rest???

Its not to much of a hassle blending fuels but it’s certainly not as handy as pulling up to any gas station to fuel up.

Maybe 10.1 wouldn’t have that problem?
I'm shooting for 10.5:1 CR. I think if I play my cards right on the tune I can get away on pump gas but if not mixing it won't be too big of a problem. Being at altitude eliminates any concern but I will eventually bring the car to sea level so I'm not keen on going any higher than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok so here's my first question. I'm getting rid of my A/C system while doing this and noticed that there is an idler pulley on the compressor bracket. Do I need to keep this pulley if I'm switching to a non a/c serpentine belt or can I just get rid of the bracket entirely? When I took the bracket off I found it was snapped in half so I'm hoping its the later of the two.

Thanks!
 

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Just a caveat, you stated you are using a high performance oil pump, there have been numerous threads here about oil pumps offered today, don't know if the build issues have been resolved, but you should verify your replacement won't bit you in the arse.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
More updates! Got the pistons out along with the oil pump and water pump off. Up next the crank shaft and the liners
1659639
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1659640
 

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Subscribed!

Was one of the most satisfying things I have done.

Good luck!

Vin
 

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Maybe gas is better in South Carolina than in Nebraska:)

My CR is 10.7 and that was measured by me by cc'ing each cylinder with a burette containing ATF. I blew a head gasket on the dyno when it went grossly lean at WOT. That gasket was replaced by a no name one of unknown pedigree and it lasted 7k miles. Examination showed just poor gasket quality and no sign of detonation. I use 93 octane pump gas all year round with max advance of 34 BTDC
 

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From some of the posts I've seen, a high-capacity oil pump can cause more problems than it solves. You might consider reading a few of Gordon Raymond's posts on the Engine Repair / Diagnostics forum.

David OD
Laguna CA
 

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My last 2 motors have been high performance by most people's standards and I have used a stock pump that I simply rebuilt with zero end play, as described in Jim K's book and by Alfar7 in a post to the ABB. It has worked fine in motors that are revved to 7000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok, so oil pump talk...
I was planning on buying a new one from Spruell with the rebuild kit. and then doing as Ed says to take the play out. This seems to be a new pump to the 92-94 (or 90-94? I've seen conflicting years for this) spec. Oil Pump High Capacity 105-115 Engines - Spruell Motorsport, Inc - Alfa Romeo Performance and Your Store for Sports Car Performance and Racing Parts. Does anyone have experience with this part? I want to put a new pump on the car but maybe a rebuild should be considered if someone has actual experience with the pump. Thanks!
 
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