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Discussion Starter #1
the last 4 mornings in which I have started her, she seems to sound more like a rough VW Beetle. It's never happened before in colder conditions in the past.the last time she wasn't parked flat on the street (kind of tilted) and it was worse. Took 3 cranks of the engine. When garaged, I've had no issues. When the issue occurs it's as if she doesn't want to get going in first gear until all the way full warm up. My tank has never been lower than half full. Mornings barely dipping to low mid 40's. Any one have any insights on this.

Thanks
Tony
 

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With what you describe my first thought is the AAV valve (Auxiliary air valve).
 

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The AAV is a way to increase the cold idle speed during warm up. If you open the throttle then the Throttle Position Switch (TPS) is not in the 'idle' position and the computer will try to adjust fuel injection. If the TPS tells the computer the throttle is at idle the computer will follow its pre-programmed idle map which is slightly richer (good for cold running).

So, in addition to checking the AAV, check the TPS. And, if everything is working right & properly adjusted, you need not touch the throttle for quick and easy starts.

If the AAV is not functioning properly (they all seem to poop out eventually) consider a manual AAV. Info is in the FAQ thread. Just remember the manual AAV is self-closing (you have to close it your self...).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for input ghnl. The investigation begins today. I just am finding it odd that a mere 15 degree difference in storage temperature is causing such havoc.
 

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Took 3 cranks of the engine. When garaged, I've had no issues.

I just am finding it odd that a mere 15 degree difference in storage temperature is causing such havoc.
Another thought is condensation. Moisture on old wires can cause difficulty starting. It doesn't have to be dripping wet - a few degrees lower temps could be causing a little bit of condensation on the spark plug wires &/or inside the distributor cap. And when garaged the temps might be a little more moderate and there might be less moisture.
 

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Cold start injector?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for input from all. Started fine in garage last night. I parked it outside (was raining/ not much colder than garage) won't start this morning. I think this is a moisture/ electrical type issue
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Upon further investigation while I still may have an issue with the AAV, I noticed the air intake hose that travels over the head to the intake manifold has a long yet slender crack, might that be a problem when it's colder? Also a pin hole radiator leak which I sealed last night had been hitting the box at the filter air intake. Electrical aside, can the manual efficiency be checked at the air filter box?
 

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I have seen condensation on the inside of the distributor cap cause that symptom. Wipe it out and try starting. If that works, you may have a small crack. Install a new one.
 

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I noticed the air intake hose that travels over the head to the intake manifold has a long yet slender crack, might that be a problem when it's colder?
that (if the crack actually goes through) is actually a major problem whether you are in Arizona or Alaska;)

you need to fix it pronto (shoe goo) or better replace it (not a cheap part unfortunately)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, I just ordered that part. I oh so gently (with love) squeezed that hose to expose slightly and noticed the engine wanted to cut out, that's a main artery for sure
 

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Discussion Starter #14
GHNL,

Regarding moisture and wires, were you speaking of just at the contacts at the end of those wires or also moisture in general on the wires, my local alfa shop states that moisture in general and less than 10 volts coming from the battery it won't send a proper signal. Any other thoughts or advice. Thanks again to a great forum
 

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Moisture anywhere can cause problems. This is one place where WD-40 is actually useful. The 'WD' supposedly stands for Water Displacement (formula #40?). Spray some on the wires and the distributor cap and see if that helps (after replacing that cracked air duct).

For an interesting experiment, try looking at the running engine on a dark & moonless night. If it is dark enough you can sometimes see failing spark plug wires glowing faintly. If they are really bad you'll see the wires arcing to each other & to bare metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I sealed up that air intake to buy time for the new part arrival. Regarding the interesting experiment in total darkness. Way cool, can I have a glass of Sangiovese and listen to Dave Brubeck Time Out while I inspect? Ha ha Love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Seriously though, this little issue seems a bit quirky. How often do the computer module ( don't know exact term) that is located behind the back seat passenger side...how long those s'possed you last?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Upon my inspections I noticed this brass fitting to the hose wiggles. The hose is tight to the fitting but the metal sleeve inside the wiggles within the fitting, is this normal or needs replaced. Sorry if this seems a dumb question. Thanks for any help
 

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That is the idle speed adjuster. Inside is a rubber O-ring. When the adjuster is adjusted it is supposed to squeeze/unsqueeze the O-ring & vary its ID. This varies how much air is allowed to pass through thus varying the idle speed.

It shouldn't be wiggly. Perhaps the O-ring has perished?

 
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