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Discussion Starter #1
While doing some maitnence and tune up, I took off the fuel rail and injectors to get overhauled. I have an extra intyake manifold in the garage and I was looking at it to see if that one is in better shape to put on. While I was cleaning I noticed 2 small holes outside of where the threads for the bolts go to hold it to the block. The pictures show the holes. Is there anything I should do to fill them, or will it not make a difference.

I was also wondering if while I have it off if I should go and get it polished, any thoughts or experience with doing that?

Lastly when I put it back on, is there a certain gasket sealer that works better than others? If so which gasket sealer would work the best?

Thanks
Joe
 

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1966-2013
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Where do the holes come out on the block side of the manifold?
If they are in the water jacket or porting they have to be delt with, if they are not, then don't worry about it.

I like Yamabond or ultra gray for gasket work myself, but be forwarned that its not as easy to clean up as permatex blue or the like.

Clean up would be good, polishing *meh* up to you.
You'd have better visual results polishing the plenum rather than the manifold.
Hammer it with carb cleaner, or even a light bead blast if you want. Or scrub brush and soapy water. Whatever you do to clean up aluminum that's the most effective for you.

If you polish, there's a lot of tedious little corners to get into and a lot of casting marks to be rid of all for something that is somewhere between **** and sucker to get at once reassembled, so no matter how pretty it it when put on there, it'll never be that nice again until its taken apart again. (though clearcoating with paint, or ideally powdercoat, post~polishing would help maintain the pretty for a longer period of time, but not make it any easier to clean up in situ)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1989 intake manifold

The holes just go inside of term hosing not inside manifold so I will let it go.

Should the sealent go on the head side or on the intake manafold.

I am waiting for the rail and injectors to come back from Okinjectors so I am cleaning everthing up on this side.

My Bosch connectors for the injectos are brittle and broken, I had Greg send me 4 new ends, should i put together with but connectors or swist and soider then heat shrink
 

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Twist, solder, heat shrink on the connectors.

Sealant ideally would be a very thin skim coat on both sides of the gasket.
You should almost be able to see the color of the gasket through the sealant.

What's the 'term hosing'?
 

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Definitely solder, heat-shrink, butt connectors are just a problem you will have to deal with in the future. A good connection will outlast your new connectors.

First have a good clean electrical and mechanical connection, well, first slide the heat shrink on. Once a good clean electrical and mechanical connection is made, solder the connection. Don't rely on the solder to hold the wires together.

Get some heat-shrink with sealant inside if you can.

Remember to size the heat-shrink appropriately. Size it by the final size. Typical is 2:1 shrink ratio. 1/4" will shrink down to 1/8". Other ratios are available, but the important thing to remember is that if exposed to heat the tubing will continue to try to shrink back to its nominal final size. So much so that over time it will eventually tear it self apart.

The manifold has quite a "grain" to it. You will be polishing for a very long time. Carb cleaner and a stainless steel brush will help clean it up. If you can protect the sealing surface you might be able to have it tumbled or vibrated someplace. The little abrasive stones will have it looking like new.

Yamabond or if there is not a Yamaha dealer near you Hondabond over the parts counter at your local Honda car dealer is good also. For very thin layers I like the spray gasket adhesives.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1989 intake manafold

I am putting the wires together as stated above twisting together then soidering next heat shrink.

New question On the intake manafold I have a few connectors and I know where they all go back on except two.
1. the CTS or as the manuel states S-7 (works with injectors.
2. the Ignition temper Sensor L-24 ( works with ignition)

On my wiring harness I have tow bosch connectors one yellow and one white.
1. The yellow one has a brown and black wire (I think it goes to the CTS
2. The white one has two orange wires (I think it goes to the L-24

If I am not making it clear I can post picturs.
thanks for the help
 

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The white connector is the CTS for the ignition ECU. It goes on the sensor located between cylinders 2 & 3.
The yellow connector (I show it as being tan) is the temp signal for the fuel ECU. It goes to the sensor between cyls 3 & 4 (right next to the brown connector for the Thermo Time Switch).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
1989 intake manafold

Would my car run if they were pluged in the wrong way that is the cts (S-7) and the temper sensor (L-24).
I am looking at the wiring diagram but can not find any wire colors, I would normally just plug them in as stated above but I don't get my injectors back until tuesday. So I am just cleaning everthing up.
Papjam do you know the colors of the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
1989 intake manafold

Tifosi
As I am cleaning up I was going to change headlights to relay as you outlined, I got the parts but do you a picture of the layout on the car or is one already posted. The wiring diagram is easy to follow thanks
 

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1966-2013
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The harness plug ends are the color code, not the wires


As to layout of headlight relays in the car, if there's pix they are few and far between as its a customization with no real standard layout involved with it.

Most folks opt to put the relays on the left inner fender near the alternator junction but not in the way of the airbox.
The factory headlight wires run down that section of engine bay harness so can literally be spliced right there if desired, and the junction makes an excellent power source for the #30 terminals of the relays.

A few other folks have done it right under the dash near the steering column, or outright into empty/unused relay slots in the fusebox itself.

Pretty much whatever you can imagine, want it to look like or find easiest to work on are the limiting factors.
 

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Papjam do you know the colors of the wires.
Of course! :)

And so can you. All you need to do is send me a private message with your email address and I'll send you a color wiring diagram.
 
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