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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings! I recently had to rebuild my gearbox because of a small bolt breaking (shift rod to fork). It was an easy fix, but since re-installing the gearbox I am having issues that I am not sure about. It seems the gears are still spinning a bit when the clutch is fully depressed. Reverse is the worst, as I cannot get into reverse safely unless I start the car with it in gear. With the clutch depressed, it doesn't feel like it is trying to move or anything, it's just initially getting it into gear. The forward gears will stop eventually, meaning I can depress the clutch and after a few moments the gears stop spinning, allowing me to select 1st with no grind.
The clutch may need to be bled again, I am hoping that is all. I had to do it a few times after replacing the slave about a year ago. But I know that the throw-out bearing may have come out of it's place when I was muscling the trans back on. I would hate to need to drop it again, doing it all alone it was a chore... even with the trans lift jack.
Thanks in advance for any recommendations, I really appreciate it.
 

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Have your trusted assistant work the clutch pedal while you are under the car (safely!) to watch the operating fork. If it moves less than ~ 1/2" the system likely needs further bleeding. Hydraulic clutches can be difficult to bleed - trying to push air down - the opposite of what it naturaly wants to do. Also, the Spider's slave cylinder can rotate in its mounts. You must turn it so the bleeder (#3) is uppermost to get all the air out.

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Discussion Starter #3
I bled the line again, with some help from a friend. Lever travels nearly an inch when pedal is pushed, which should be ok? Still not taking it out far enough though. Gears are still spinning even with the clutch in. Trying to get into any gear just grinds...
I can put it into gear, start the car and drive- pushing into first synchro as I come to a stop. Staying 'in gear'. But any time in neutral makes it impossible to do- gears are spinning when they shouldn't.
It was a huge amount of work removing the transmission, and I am hoping I don't need to do that all over again. But I also need this car to run- it's my only vehicle. Do you think its the throwout bearing?
Thanks so much for the help =)
 

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Do you have an endoscope? They are pretty inexpensive. Look inside your bell housing though the arm opening. It is easy to not get the TO bearing seated well with the spring attached to hold it in place. Certainly sounds like a clutch issue.... 1 inch of throw in the clutch arm? Really? Feel how much tension it is under by hand....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
At least 3/4 of an inch, it moved a fair distance. I can pick an endoscope up tomorrow, Id rather be sure before I take it all down again. My TO bearing didn't have a retainer clip, just the V shaped clip that holds the arm in place. If I take it down again, I am replacing TO bearing and getting the extra clip. I'll let you know what I find, thanks again =)
 

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I am probably referring to the spring clip you said. I thought I remembered the bearing sitting in the spring, but it does attach to the arm... it seemed very sensitive to placement. An endoscope comes in handy a lot. It will let you get a good look around in there anyway.
 

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Your throw out bearing is seated right. If it is popped out it would be depressing the pressure plate farther then normal.

DO NOT install the circular throw out bearing retaining clip. Alfa quit using it in 1971. They never removed it from the parts book.

Your problem is going to be either clutch pivot pin is breaking or clutch hydraulics. The flex hose going to the slave does swell up on the inside which will give you the problems you are describing.

Is the clutch pedal level with the brake pedal?

Does the clutch pedal feel heaver when pushing it in then before?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The clutch pedal is NOT level with the brake pedal, its sits a bit lower. And I didn't feel much if any difference in pedal pressure after we bled it again. I did replace the master and slave cylinders about 2 years ago, also got the steel braided hose. Guessing I need to disassemble the system? Also, how can I verify the lever is good? It looked fine when I had it out, no obvious signs of any wear or damage.
I was thinking if the TO bearing was out too far, it might be the reason the gears are spinning even when the clutch is in all the way because they are still making contact- but I admit I am not so sure about that. Was just a guess.
Endoscope is a hundred bucks, so I'll have to pass on that for now- still out of work thanks to Covid19. Hoping to get this all figured out soon... everyone wants me to sell the Alfa and get a 'reasonable form of transportation'. But I love this car, it's something personal- its still under 80k, so she has a lot of life left in her =) I have taken this car cross country a few times with no issues. I just want to get her back to that condition... So thanks for all of the help =) You guys rock
 

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Clutch pedal should be level with the brake pedal.

Grab the backside of the clutch pedal and pull it towards you. If it pulls fairly easy. The pivot pin is on its way to completely breaking. Get a new one and put it in.

You can replace it with out disconnecting all the hydraulic lines.
 

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how can I verify the lever is good? It looked fine when I had it out, no obvious signs of any wear or damage.
you sure you are talking about the same lever?
Why would you remove the clutch pivot arm when you did your gearbox?

The arm Jim G is talking about is this, located on the booster mount....this is the arm that fails at the round weld....slowly fails and as it does your clutch pedal gets lower and lower, till it finally gives altogether.

pivot arm.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was talking about the lever in the bell housing with the TO, my bad. I'll take a look at that lever and check the pedal and report back a bit later today. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I checked the pedal and it did pull back, with moderate resistance. I inspected the lever, it doesn't appear to have any cracks or signs it about to break. I adjusted the lever linkage until the pedals were even again. I started up and had complete separation, gears were dead still :) No grind whatsoever. Is there something I need to inspect further (Lever etc) for oncoming failure, or do you think it just needed adjusting? I am beyond relieved that I don't need to drop the trans again, thanks so much guys- you are awesome!
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Discussion Starter #13
Update. I was testing the clutch pedal and after a few pumps it made a snap noise and the pedal went to the floor and in floppy now. So what should I look at? It appears to be behind the master in the linkage, or is there some part I should zero in on? :|
 

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I can only think the pivot arm (your photo above) has finally given way
 

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You can take the brake and clutch master cylinder loose from the booster and push them out of the way to get the brake pedal assembly out.

You do not need to disconnect any of the hydraulic lines to do this job.

I would recommend getting one of these in case the thread end get messed up on yours while getting it out.

 

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Discussion Starter #19
The bolt that goes thru the clutch pedal won't budge. The nut and washer came off, but I can't get it to move at all. And there's no room to get a small hammer on it to tap it thru, if that's what it does.
 
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