Still running great- she's happy. I did the 'hot adjust' on the aux air component, and want to tweak the intake air valve as it mentions on the L-Jet paper, but the top seems to be glued on. But so far, so good. I am keeping the test drives local for now just in case it dies out of nowhere again, still a little unnerving to drive at the moment. But its running well.
I am going to do brakes next, my e-brake is non-existent and it needs pads on the front.
Thank you all so much for your help through this- I can't thank you enough.
If the cover on the AFM is neatly glued on it is likely that is the factory glue. If so, leave it alone! Any attempt to adjust the AFM's spring tension is more likely to mess it up than improve anything. If the glue line is haphazard then all bets are off.
I'm Back. Went to go on another test run and she won't start again. Got spark, both at the coil and through the distributor. So close, I am so bummed. BTW I didn't mess with the intake mod, left it alone.
Checked for fuel and it was dry. I then inspected the in-tank pump again, there was a lot of vacuum when I opened it up. Pulled it out and checked it, looked OK so I put it back in. Then she started up again. :| I wish I could pinpoint this problem because it's taking away any driving pleasure worrying about it dying on me out of the blue.
I "think" tank vaccuum indicates a blockage from the charcoal filter to the vapor recovery accumulator but not positive and don't have the diagram handy. You can check the one-way valve in the vapor recovery system for blockage. Mine requires 2-3 psi to open.. I would try a gas cap that is vented to the atmosphere or leave your current cap loose to confirm the problem. If it dies while driving, take the cap off and see what happens.
The Series 3 Spider's tank venting is through an air inlet valve and one-way (check) valve located near the vapor recovery tank in the compartment forwards of the trunk. Either or both can get gummed up and be no-way valves. Clean them out with carb cleaner until you can easily blow through them. Be sure to install the one-way valve aimed in the correct direction.
I checked the evaporation system, and cleaned the valves- they seem to be working. I noticed the outside fuel pump was not running constantly. It runs for about 3 seconds then quits for a brief moment, and cycles like that. Is that normal? Or should I look at replacing the pump? If vacuum in the tank isn't a part of the system design, what do you think about me putting a small vent hole in the cap?
OK, I will look into another pump. The Bosch is a hundred bucks, but there are several that are much less- do I have the same discrepancy with the fuel pump as I did with the distributor rotor? Or can I try to save a few bucks on a cheaper fuel pump? And I was just going on the tip above regarding a vented cap. Anything to keep these stalls from happening.
Centerline is making me buy another fuel filter to get the pump warranty :| Do you guys think I can get away with a cheaper pump? Bosch at NAPA is 200.00, Centerline is 130 plus the filter. I found a few online for much less- but I don't want to make a mistake by getting one if it isn't a good idea. I am just out of work and I need to be careful with money at the moment.
I have started her up daily - there is a bit of a miss occasionally, but I am fairly sure it's the pump causing that. The battery gauge drops about to the center (12v mark) after a minute or two, very slowly. But it stays there and actually drops a little below the 12v mark if I have the radio on, wipers, heater etc. I did replace the regulator at the alternator not too very long ago.
I suspect you can find a pump for less than $130. Maybe try researching here on alfabb what others have used. Rockauto lists a Bosch 69412 for $96. I have not been able to confirm it is absolutely the correct one.
Measure voltage at the battery to confirm your gauge indication. Sounds like your alternator may only be providing very little charge or none at all. Rebuilding what you have is usually less expensive than buying another one.
I got a new fuel pump from centerline, and also installed an in-line filter before the pump. So far she's running really well... I will keep you posted. Now need to address a gearbox issue- starting a new thread for that. Thanks for all of the help!
Just a quick update--- I had another situation where the alfa died on me again, had to tow it home $$$. But absolution wasn't far away. Was checking all the wiring and found that the drive relay was the problem, most likely all along. I got it to run, and when I shook the relay it would die. I can't seem to locate one at the moment, and decided to create a bypass switch which I can turn on when I start the car, and off when I shut it off. Since adding the bypass, the intermittent miss I had been experiencing is now gone. Idle is very steady and purrs like a cat. It also adds a tiny bit of security to the car as it won't start without it on, and I hid it under the dash. I called an Alfa shop here in CO and asked if it would be OK to run like this until I found another (new) relay- he said I was fine. Open to comments / suggestions. Just wanted to update, because I replaced a lot of things, including the fuel pump only to find it was the drive relay all along.
I would not spend too much time worrying about what you may have left on the table regarding the new parts. If you keep the car long enough, you'll use your spares or at least be glad you have them on the shelf.
I think you are fine using the bypass switch. Regarding the drive relay, as you may know the original Bosch is expensive. There is a KAE relay that will work but newer versions supply power to the pumps whenever the ignition switch is in the "on" position. I recently confirmed this behavior on my car when the old KAE failed and I replaced it with one I bought two years ago.