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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I have a ton of questions so I’ll do my best not to flood you all at once. Below is my 1987 Spider Quad and as you can see the back end looks like its sagging but it’s not. The springs in the back are the performance springs from IAP and when I was talking to a guy at IAP last week he told me that they have an issue with Quads and their performance springs. He was saying that for some reason they look like they are sagging and they are not sure why.
So, my question to you is

1) Should I replace the rear springs with OE type springs from IAP so it won’t look like it is sagging?

Or

2) Should I just leave it alone?

What do you think? Do you have any other suggestions?



TY

Rob
 

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The reason the performance springs from IAP dont work with Quads is simple... ground clearance... with respect to the ground effects.... its why the IAP catalog even says Not for Quads.

Your only option is to get the OE springs...... If you want better handling on your car, the best option for the quad is the chassis stiffener and different wheels that offer wider rubber.
 

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try this site.... ' speedway motors ' they have a nice selection of springs,, and they are ceep.. i have used there spring to work on my 84 spider.. never a problem... i would go with 1150"/lbs front... 180"/ lbs rear.. i have these on my car.. ride is nice.. car lowered a wee bit.. but no bottoming anymore.. spring cost about 39.95 each
 

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...back end looks like its sagging but it’s not. The springs in the back are the performance springs from IAP and when I was talking to a guy at IAP last week he told me that they have an issue with Quads and their performance springs. He was saying that for some reason they look like they are sagging and they are not sure why.
So, my question to you is

1) Should I replace the rear springs with OE type springs from IAP so it won’t look like it is sagging?

Or

2) Should I just leave it alone?

What do you think? Do you have any other suggestions?
Take the shims out of the front spring pans and make sure they're cleaned out before you put in the front springs. Old original shims, crap/rust and whatever can stick in the bottom of the pan. That can help level things out a bit. Or if the front is fine, shim up the back.

You do realize your rear wheel well is lower than the front wheel well.?.? If you raise up the rear of the car so the rear wheel well is the same level as the front, that is incorrect.

Also, why the guy at IAP says they have a problem with their springs and the Quadrifoglio appearance, I don't know. Possibly it may be because the ground effects behind the rear wheel are so low, squared off and extend all the way to the rear bumper (not tapered as much as an S4). Performance wise, should be the same as any other Spider.

The reason the performance springs from IAP dont work with Quads is simple... ground clearance... with respect to the ground effects.... its why the IAP catalog even says Not for Quads.

Your only option is to get the OE springs...... If you want better handling on your car, the best option for the quad is the chassis stiffener and different wheels that offer wider rubber.
I have to disagree with you. No problem at all with my Quad being lowered and the ground effects. Never scraped, bashed, or bumped them. 10 inch curbs and parking to close to them is another story. Bottoming out on crappy roads etc, only on the bottom of the car. Bottoming out hard enough to bounce the engine into the hood, scraping the exhaust tip, sure. NO clearance issue with the ground effects. I know people have issues with bottoming out and performance springs in S2, S3, and S4 Spiders, ground effects or not.

The new IAP catalogs, don't have the disclaimer any longer about their springs not working with the Quads. They actually say that they will fit the Quads now.

OE springs are not the only option. If you want to use performance springs on the street and don't want to lower the car, use shims to raise the car a bit. Or, try and see if the place that Bianchi1 recommends has some longer springs for the rear.

As for the chassis stiffener, I won't argue about the merits on how it makes the car feel, but I am still trying to figure out how to get rid of the rear cross bar on it. Don't like seeing that square tube under there when I walk up to my car. Other thing I'm concerned about is bottoming out and ripping it off the bottom of the car. Haven't done it yet and hopefully never will!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi all,

First off thank you for all your responses and help. After taking shadowburns advice I went out to my Alfa and measured behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. To my surprise the clearance behind the front wheel from the floor to the bottom of my skirt was 7 1/4". The clearance in front of my rear tire from the floor to the bottom of my skirt was 7.5".

So, I guess the truth is my car is not sagging as a matter of fact the back of my car is higher than the front of my car.

Any comments?

RB
 

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As for the chassis stiffener....I am still trying to figure out how to get rid of the rear cross bar on it
Just take it off and run some nuts up on the bolts to stop them rattling.
The very vast majority of the stiffening is done by the lengthwise bars and the cross stuff is just a little icing on the cake.

Unless you are a pretty radical driver, you'll likely never notice that one isn't present.
(both removed on the other hand does make itself known when you get a bit of torsional load going)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There was nothing in the drivers seat when I took the measurement. Should I retake the measurement with someone in the drivers seat?

RB
 

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Just take it off and run some nuts up on the bolts to stop them rattling.
The very vast majority of the stiffening is done by the lengthwise bars and the cross stuff is just a little icing on the cake.

Unless you are a pretty radical driver, you'll likely never notice that one isn't present.
(both removed on the other hand does make itself known when you get a bit of torsional load going)
LOL Well, that's just way to easy to do! I gotta make it more difficult than that. Especially since I'm a very radical driver in my head, and can even feel the difference when I'm a 1/8 pound low in tire pressure!:)
 

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robertb said:
There was nothing in the drivers seat when I took the measurement. Should I retake the measurement with someone in the drivers seat?
If you want an accurate picture of the ride height, yes.

Ideally it'll be ballasted as normally driven w/drivers weight (+ passengers weight if there's a regular customer) half a tank of fuel, spare tire if carried, (+ any 'usual junk in the trunk if normally present)

Spec is 165 lbs in each seat w/a portion of that set on the floor in the footwells, but unless you and any pasenger weigh 165 lbs each (ugh, no fat chicks!) and are always in the car together, that's kind of a useless bit of information. Ballast it like it's most frequently driven.

Same should be done for alingment too BTW, otherwise it'll go all goofy once you climb in and everything shifts.
 

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LOL Well, that's just way to easy to do! I gotta make it more difficult than that. Especially since I'm a very radical driver in my head, and can even feel the difference when I'm a 1/8 pound low in tire pressure!:)
Well then you'll be able to tell us for sure just how much a difference there is with and without the rear crossbar then wontcha :D

Me, I can't feel under a # of tire pressure difference to save my life, but for sure I can feel it about 1/10 of a second before the front starts to wash out or the rear is going to come around.

Not that I can do anything to prevent it mind you, just that I know it's coming so I'd better be prepared to catch it....
 

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...Well then you'll be able to tell us for sure just how much a difference there is with and without the rear crossbar then wontcha :D....
Hell, I can already tell you it feels way different without it, thinking about it while its still on thinking about taking it off! My head hurts now. I think I'm gonna go polish my hose clamps now.
 

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Quad rear rprings are longer to account for the hard top weight. Replacing them with the shorter sport springs gives you an eternal ride up hill.
Correct. When a hard top is installed, 19mm longer springs along with a 11.5 mm shim were supposed to be used (probably the same for an S4 Spider using a hard top also). Without the hard top, using both the longer springs and shim would raise the back end too much.

Using a shorter performance spring, (front and back) without the hard top, should not make the rear end lower. If there is a shim in the front, but not the rear, or a huge amount of stuff in the trunk, then yeah.
 

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bianchi1 would you share a little more info on the springs you got from speedway motors maybe a part number, manufacturer, height , diameter etc.

Thanks
 
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