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Discussion Starter #1
I have fouled up an easy job. Fuel level guage wasn't reading accurately and I wanted to replace the rubber gasket on the top of the sending unit. Took the sending unit/fuel pump out. Found the float half full of fuel and the rubber coupler brittle. Replaced float, coupler and gasket. Installed pump and cage back on fuel level and put into tank. It is too tall. Moved the pump and cage as high on the sender tube as possible and got the assembly to fit in the tank but it was still very snug when I put the assembly in the car. Now car is starved for fuel. I would guess that the fuel inlet (filter attached) is smashed against either a baffle or high spot in the tank.

I did not pay attention to the clock position of the fuel pump on the assembly when I removed it. There must be a baffle or something that the bottom of the tank that I am hitting when I put the assembly back in. I wouldn't expect it to be so snug, almost like I have to crush it to fit.

Does the clock position of the fuel pump matter to allow the fuel pump to fit into the tank properly? Any pictures of the assembly put together correctly with the fuel pump in the proper orientation would be helpful.

If I go ahead and replace the fuel pump the new pumps don't have a cage. New fuel pumps (Centerline) seem to just attach to the rubber coupler. Is the OEM cage not needed when you replace the pump?

Attached is a picture of the top of the assembly when I put it back together. Unfortunately, I did not take a picture of the assembly out of the car.

I appreciate your help. Stay safe.

Mike
 

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It shouldn't matter electrically, but it can matter mechanically. Is the float a normal bent-arm float type? If so it is oriented a particular way to avoid obstructions in the tank and to be damped, in theory, in some way from sloshing. If the float isn't in fact hitting anything in the tank and getting stuck it shouldn't matter, I'd think.
Andrew
 

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On my 85, there is a horizontal baffle with an elongated slot running side-to-side across the inside of the tank. I have found that the best orientation of the sender is to locate the ground wire at the 3 o'clock position. That orients the float arm to fit within the slot.
 

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yep, ground wire to 3 o clock (spare wheel well is 3 o clock!). That gets the float orientation correct....float orientation is indeed important....get it wrong the gauge needle can bounce about like a 'roo!

But also, the filter sock can be put on any which way, so that needs to be oriented correctly too.....to fit into the baffle slot at bottom of tank, that Rich just mentioned...it's the filter sock that needs to fit into the baffle.

you didn't however mention the filter sock....hopefully you put it back with one?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got it...Ground wire at 3 o clock. Which direction should the filter sock go? Long end pointed towards 3 o clock as well? I wonder if I will be able to see the baffle through a half a tank of gas.

Does the assembly come right up to the bottom of the tank or should there be a little crush when I tighten the 6 screws? I must have the filter sock across the baffle and that caused my assembly to be too tall in the tank.
 

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You can see the baffle if your fuel is clean😂
But yes baffle runs east/west afaik
 

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Mine is about 120' different than the picture you posted. Mine the ground terminal is around 1 o'clock position. I didn't worry about the baffle slot since my pickup screen is a small round one that fits entirely inside the baffle. But not saying mine is right. Mine is 78 with the tank pump recall... so likely same as yours
 

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earlier filters were the round type.
The TSB from Jan '81 shows both types
The long filter aligns as in 2B in diagram, so yes along the ground terminal axis.
pump.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you gentlemen. I very much appreciate the help.

We all could use a good ride this weekend.
 
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