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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi there

I am trying to figure out what the problem is with my tachometer and my speedometer.

They do not work properly. I am a new spider owner and I have had my 86 2.0 Veloce for two months now. I have been combing through the car and dealing with issues one at a time.

Please can someone help me get the Tachometer and Speedometer working again. My Spider has the two pods layout.

The Thachometer gives no reading what so ever. Is it mechanical or electrical?
I saw the tacho needle come to life once when it spiked in the corner of my eye and I'm wondering how it managed to do that?

The speedo is another story.
The reading on the speedometer goes all the way up to 220 and I assume this is km/h. However the speedo is marked with m/h on the facia (see pic).

And when I am driving it behaves more along the lines of m/h.

I say this because I know 62 m/h to = 100km/h and when I am driving at about 100km/h the needle is on 60, furthermore the speedo seems to be bouncing in sync with a ticking sound, which increases in frequency the faster you go. As the speed increases and ticking sound frequency increases so does the bounce of the needle.

Now I must say this, the car was originally from the U.K. And was brought by the owner to South Africa in the 90's and it is very evident that the "k" in km/h was rubbed out on the speedo. Hence I am lead to believe it has been modified, maybe?

Note that neither the speedo nor the Tachometer needles rest on "0".

I'd like to get the speedo displaying properly in km/h and the tacho working.

Please can someone give me a trouble shoot or advice so I can get these pods up and running properly again.

Thank you
Vassili
 

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The tach is electrical. I think it is a white wire at the coil that sends a signal to the tach. The tach is usually quite reliable. Check all electrical connections and also the fuses. Does your car have bullet style fuses or blade style fuses? The bullet style are known to somehow look OK but fail to allow electrons to flow. Replace them with new fuses (the brass strips seem better than the aluminum strips) and clean the contacts in the fuse box.

The speedo is mechanical. On USA versions a cable runs from the transmission to a mileage counter device on the left inner fender and another cable then runs to the speedo. The mileage counter is for a warning light in the dash telling you to have the catalytic converter checked every 30,000 miles. A button on the mileage counter is then reset for another 30,000 miles. Your UK version may not have all that and then it would likely have a one piece cable. In either case, if the cable gets kinked or worn out it will turn erratically and the speedo will read inaccurately. You can try lubricating it by disconnecting it at the speedo end, sliding out the inner cable and applying some light oil. But if it kinked then it needs to be replaced.

And, yes, the needles do not return to zero. If you look very closely there is a tiny needle rest well above zero. This is because Alfas are so fast they are going 10 mph even sitting still...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Eric,

I will have a look at the coils and connections.

The fuse box uses bullet style fuses.

Thanks for the tips I will get right on it, and report back.

Vassili
 

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Thanks Eric,

I will have a look at the coils and connections.

The fuse box uses bullet style fuses.

Thanks for the tips I will get right on it, and report back.

Vassili
Hi Eric,

Noted, I see the needles can't rest at zero.

Funnily enough as I was fiddling around under the steering column, a white cable fell from above.

What are the odds that this is the tachometer cable.

Can you please give me some instruction as to how I can remove the pods to inspect the connections without damaging them.

There is a nut underneath the pod can I loosen it and remove the tachometer?

Thanks
 

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It's been a while since I have removed the instruments (and my memory is not very reliable...). The hex head screw under the pod allows you to remove one section of the pod. Then you'll see how the instrument is held into the remaining half - three or four screws around the perimeter I think. Removing those screws should allow you to remove the instrument from the pod and get to the back side where the electrical connections are located.

Some info & pictures here might be helpful: http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spi...ngs-85-era-spider-mechanical-speedometer.html
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you

It's been a while since I have removed the instruments (and my memory is not very reliable...). The hex head screw under the pod allows you to remove one section of the pod. Then you'll see how the instrument is held into the remaining half - three or four screws around the perimeter I think. Removing those screws should allow you to remove the instrument from the pod and get to the back side where the electrical connections are located.
Thank you Eric for such a speedy reply, this forum is an absolute gem.
 

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Mine is an 87. I have completed the following procedures over the last few weekends without success. Removed pod and cleaned terminals. Cleaned terminals on coil. Checked fuses. Checked bulkhead connectors as ok.

Whenstopped months ago, during rain it would work for a while. Doesn't work at all at the moment.
 
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