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Discussion Starter #1
All,
My heater does not seem to be working. I get the fan on indication, but the blower does not seem to be blowing. Does anyone have any info on how to procede with the diagnosis of this problem. I also noticed that the water temp gauge does not rise. Any info is appreciated...
 

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Mike, I have an '86 Spider also and have and had the exact same two problems. I bought the car in October knowing that the heater blower was not working; my fan switch is working and the indicator light goes on when I switch it on, even though the blower does not work. I plan to replace the blower but it is on back order at IAP. It looks like a time consuming job. Before doing that I guess you should check or have someone check if the blower motor is getting power from the switch (mine is but the motor is dead). In the meantime, the forced air still blows through at speed, but not sitting at a light. That still provides enough heat (provided you fix the second problem), but can be a problem with defogging.

Starting a few weeks ago, my temperature gauge also did not rise up to 180 degrees. I wasn't sure if it was the colder weather, the gauge or the thermostat. It turned out to be the thermostat that was stuck open. I had to replace the thermostat. On the '86s (at least on mine), the thermostat is integral with the housing so you have to buy it all in one piece (price is still not bad, I think it was about $35).

Hope that helps.

Al
 

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Dead fans are really common. The sit it the bottom of the heater, and if water collects, it corrodes the bottom bushing. You can try sticking your fingers up there and spinning the fan by hand to see if that helps it. The real fix is to pull the fan/heater out, not something you want to lightly contemplate. If the light's coming on, it likely means your electrical circuit is OK, but it can't hurt to test it with a voltmeter or test light.

APE and others have used fans. Once you have the unit apart, grease the bushings, check the brushes, then drill a couple drain holes in the bottom of the heater box to let and water drain out and not re-ruin the fan.

Andrew
 

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Dead fans are really common. The sit it the bottom of the heater, and if water collects, it corrodes the bottom bushing.
And it looks like this: (shown upside down)


The 'right' way to R/R the blower motor is to remove the dash then remove the heater unit and disassemble it. If you are clever &/or lucky you can try removing just the lower half of the heater unit (where the blower motor resides). See: S3 heater fan R/R

Removing the entire dash is not as daunting as it may sound. Most of your effort will be in removing the center console. Disconnect a few wires for the gauges and there are four bolts to remove the dash (and two are wing nuts!). If you want to try removing the lower half of the heater to get to the blower motor know that there'll be lots of working upside down with your head in the footwells removing bits you can barely feel and not see...

Before doing anything drastic, try moving the air flow lever to direct heated air to the foot wells then reach in from the right side and try spinning the fan with your finger. If it will spin then check for electricity getting to the fan. If it won't spin then decide how you wish to get at the blower motor.
 

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There is at least one very good thread on this BB covering the problem and the fix.

I had two bad fans and they both responded to removing, cleaning and lubing.

Removing is a pain. Partial removal, removing the bottom only is tedious but can be done. The threads show how and were a lifesaver. Thanks BB.

One of my fans was so bad that I threw away the resistor for the low speed. It now has two high speeds. Someday perhaps it will get an external resistor and will then have a low speed. But then. if you need a fan do you really need a slow one?
 

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I haven't done this on Spiders as often as on GTVs, Berlinas, and Supers, but the heater will come out of those without removing the dash. Console "only" (if you want to call it that) need be removed, and heater box will just, just fit out underneath. On a Giulia sedan, it's such a close fit that it'll come out one side, not the other, and requires tunnel carpet removal (the half-inch matters).
It's still not the most fun not matter how you attack it.
Andrew
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All,
I need some help identifying these wires. I used papajams awesome wiring diagram to sort out the stereo wiring, but I dont know where these ones go.
 

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Is that a dual red w/black trace?

If so, look at your diagram in the vicinity of the power window and mirror switches as there's a pairing like that associated with them that would likely be in the console and could be what that connection is supposed to service.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Darren,
It is a dual red with black trace. I do not have power windows, but I do have power mirror adjustments. I couldnt find anything for them to connect to.
 

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Does the right interior light work? This light uses a dual red/black and a single white.
 

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Hey, it does doesn't it.
I was all up in the radio area of the schematic (cause that's where the wires are hanging out don'tcha know :)) and it never even dawned on me about the curtesy light(s), though now that we're after the fact I remember quite clearly since you said so LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Guys,
Where do the connectors plug in? Where is the courtesy light? Ive never seen it come on. A picture or another drawing would be great. Ill look at papajams drawing again to see if I can locate it on the drawing, but locating it on the vehicle is another story...
 

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IIRC on 86+ it'll be on the bottom of the knee bolster facing downward as opposed to prior versions where (when present) they were located on the sides of the console facing outboard.

The light housing is just popped in like the switches on the console with the tabs being at the ends.
(reach behind and push out the front, or lever under the end of the housing from the outside using a thin but broad bladed screwdriver)
The lense itself is a rocking switch with the centered position being on with light timer, fully tilted one way for on all the time regardless of door or timer, and the other extreme is off all the time regardless of door or timer.

*special note:
If you take the lense out of the housing deliberately or by accident, there is a spring loaded ball bearing at one end (its what locks the lense into whatever position) that will likely loft itself into parts unknown unless everything is captive in a box or bag when it comes apart.
Should you lose said ball bearing, one can be obtained out of the goose~neck of a Huffy bicycle or local bike shop that has same laying about in parts drawers.
 
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