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Discussion Starter #1
Working on the 86 engine removal as I want to clean up engine compartment, engine work, new clutch and tranny assessment.
All is going well, taking off the air plenum and wiring harness to all the injectors, was a bit scary.
What remain is the guibo doughnut, which I installed several months ago, connecting rod and AC compressor .
Do I need to remove the condenser to get the engine and tranny out? Also, do I need to remove the fan to get more clearance?
A little help on the final pieces would be great, as I want to get it out on Friday.
Thanks
 

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I have removed the engines without taking off the fan. The condenser could easily get damaged by a swinging motor so I would remove it. I have had to drop the draglink down from underneath to get better access and angle.
Other opinions may differ. I haven't pulled one in the last 10 months
 

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I have removed the engines without taking off the fan. The condenser could easily get damaged by a swinging motor so I would remove it.
While I'll agree that the engine with fan will clear the radiator bulkhead, the fan (like the AC condenser) is somewhat fragile and easy to remove once the radiator is out of the way. My instincts would be to take it off.

I have had to drop the draglink down from underneath to get better access and angle.
You have to drop the draglink for the engine to come out. You don't have to remove it completely - just unbolt the idler box or pop the arm off the steering box - and push the link downward.
 

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Here is a PM I just to someone about to reinsert an engine. It might give you some insights.

Over the years, I’ve experimented with skipping some steps. That always leads to more time, frustration, and scarred nuckles.

I recommend you remove everything at the front. Radiator, fan, drop the anti sway bar at the body mounts. You can possibly leave the condenser hoses attached, but try to move it forward to give your hands more access.

Copied below


With the trans attached, it’ll be heavy in the rear, so a mid-hook and front-lifting strap won’t actually do much for you.

The cast-iron 2Ls that I more often work with have a “bridge” cast into both the front and rear of the cylinder head. I attach my very strong fabric strap through these. The rear bridge is a good balance point if/when you want to be able to level your engine, such as when it’s fully inserted into the car, and you want to raise the rear of the trans without needing to use a floor jack.

So, I’d recommend moving the steel strap from the middle two head studs to the rear pair.

The weight on the front strap will actually be quite low, as the balance point will be close to the rear-mounted steel lifting strap.

I often run my long fabric strap around the cylinder head, under the exhaust studs and intake manifold, then through the two “bridges”, running both legs of the strap through the hook on the adjustable balancing bar. I tie the free ends of the strap at the hook to prevent the strap from sliding through the hook unintentionally. You can sort of duplicate this by running your strap around the ex studs and intake manifold, then up through the rear-mounted lifting strap. I also think you’d be fine just using just the rear mounted lifting strap and water pump. OR crank behind pulley, but possibly bundling the two strap legs above the water pump to raise the swinging point.

There is a magic combination of fabric strap lengths at the front and rear, with the front starting out shorter than the rear. My balance adjuster has only so much range, and at one point you’ll want the engine and trans hanging near vertically to clear the trans tunnel/firewall. Another good reason to “bundle” the two front legs of your fabric strap (or high quality rope).

I do my removals and insertions with the car nearly level front to rear. The rear-high approach was adopted by people without a balancing bar. Being level allows me to hop up and down easily to adjust something. Plus, with the tail high, you will have trouble lifting the trans high enough with the balance bar to hop down there and just bolt up the rear support.

furthermore, I use my air impact gun to operate the balancing bar. I can stand at the front of the car, making small adjustments in the balancer, hoist height, and rearward motion of the rolling hoist, and cleanly and smoothly insert the engine, lifting the rear at the end, with only rare and soft contact between the engine and car.

For my cars, the hardest point is getting the front mounts to sit down in position, but even there I’ve learned where and when to use a pry-bar.
 

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1984 GTV6, 1973 Berlina, 1987 Milano
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I'd recommend replacing the transmission input shaft seal while you have it out. I elected not to replace the rear main seal on my Berlina as it wasn't leaking, and I have heard too many stories of folks not getting it right. But the transmission input is a standard seal and they are usually pretty dry by nowm
 

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and reverse gear switch
 

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While I'll agree that the engine with fan will clear the radiator bulkhead, the fan (like the AC condenser) is somewhat fragile and easy to remove once the radiator is out of the way. My instincts would be to take it off.



You have to drop the draglink for the engine to come out. You don't have to remove it completely - just unbolt the idler box or pop the arm off the steering box - and push the link downward.
I generally remove the idler arm from the body so I do not damage the ends and the boots on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So the engine and transmission was removed. Head looked good but needs machining, and new exhaust valve stems. While we are in there we are going to replace the piston rings and crank bearing and all the seal. Other than that, engine is good with 114,000 miles. Transmission needs 2nd gear syncro and new seals.
Flywheel needs to be machined also and new Clutch, pressure plate and Throw out bearing. All in a little over 4k seems a little bit high, but here in the Northeast, everything is expensive.
While that is being done, engine compartment is clean and new paint, along with some suspension part and bushings that need replacement.
 

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@milford , Match mark the flywheel to the crank. There is one correct way, 5 incorrect ways to reinstall it. There is also a chisel mark to use if you didn't mark it. Did you mean exhaust valve *guides? You can use intake guides with seals on the exhaust side. This is a factory update done in the late 80's. I too have an 86, graduate, purchased in 89. Good luck!
 

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So the engine and transmission was removed. Head looked good but needs machining, and new exhaust valve stems. While we are in there we are going to replace the piston rings and crank bearing and all the seal. Other than that, engine is good with 114,000 miles. Transmission needs 2nd gear syncro and new seals.
Flywheel needs to be machined also and new Clutch, pressure plate and Throw out bearing. All in a little over 4k seems a little bit high, but here in the Northeast, everything is expensive.
While that is being done, engine compartment is clean and new paint, along with some suspension part and bushings that need replacement.
@milford , Match mark the flywheel to the crank. There is one correct way, 5 incorrect ways to reinstall it. There is also a chisel mark to use if you didn't mark it. Did you mean exhaust valve *guides? You can use intake guides with seals on the exhaust side. This is a factory update done in the late 80's. I too have an 86, graduate, purchased in 89. Good luck!
I once put one back on without checking and did not remember until I had everything back together. Figured I would try and see if it would start before taking everything back apart, It did! Sometimes you get lucky. Should have bought a lottery ticket that day. :LOL:
 
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