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Discussion Starter #1
All,
See the picture below, the wire leading to the hot side of the in tank fuel pump is broken. I soldered it, but it appears the pump motor is no good, open line during conductivity test. My question is in regard to the wire itself, the raised or bubbled area is copper wire coilded around plastic. Im guessing they used this coil as some type of resistor? I need to replace the pump and I found it at IAP, but the kit doesnt come with the wire and I cant find the wire mentioned any where.

Here is a picture showing the broken wire and the raised/bubbled portion...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, if thats correct, I can butt splice the wire together and cover it with heat shrink tubing, right?

Thanks very much,

Mike
1985 Spider Graduate
 

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Discussion Starter #5
LMAO, I like the part that it didnt even blow up, not once....

Thanks,

Mike
1985 Spider Graduate
 

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I just replaced my in tank pump a few weeks ago. Had same issue with the coil wire broken, bypassed it with a butt splice and zero issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
All,
Well ive found out that the in tank fuel pump or sending unit, as it is sometimes called, is bad. Ive looked around at lots of posts because changing the pump/sending unit involves messing with the stepped hose as well. I inspected the hose and it is cracked up and needs replacement as well. I found the below pumps on Kragen/O'Rielly and IAP, respectively... I will be going with the Kragen/O'Reilly one as it is more cost effective and is locally available. I hope this will help.

Mike
Northern California
1985 Spider Graduate
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey All,
Quick up date. I bought the above kit at Kragen/O'Reilly's auto parts for a total of $87. The short fat hose at the bottom of the above picture, next to the electrical connectors, it has a small diameter and a thick outer wall. I matched it up with the length of the original stepped hose and cut it to length using a standard razor knife. The small diameter fits the pump outlet and i took a 1/2 inch drill bit and reamed out the other end, and it fits the inlet pipe on the sending unit body. Super tight fit, excellent fix.

So I replaced the in tank pump and now my 85 Spider Graduate starts idles for a second then dies. I will be going through the L-Jet diagnostics, but could use any other helpful tips or info. Ive already inspected all the fuel hoses, except the ones that go through the wall to the hidden canister.

Moving forward, making progress, happy for the moment...
 

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Mike,
a Few comments...as I had the same issue once I put in a new in-tank pump:

1. Is thew 12 VDC power connected to the center terminal on the pump outlet? Spider Tech FAQ page has a good picture.
2. If yes to #1, pull the pump and ensure the wire you connected within the sender is still connected. Mine came loose in the first fit and I had to re-crimp (very tightly). Once I did this, car started and ran fine
3. Is the fuse for the main, under car, fuel pump broken? This fuse is located next to the ECU, under the parcel shelf.
4. Old or dirty fuel?
5. May be a million other things, and the L-Jet troubleshooting is a good place to go.

Thanks, JP
 

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...now my 85 Spider Graduate starts idles for a second then dies...
Do you have a timing light? Connect it to a spark plug wire. Try to see if the timing light stops flashing then the engine dies or if the light flashes as the engine dies. That can help point towards ignition or fuel as the missing ingredient.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I dont have a timing light at the moment, but a friend has one and ill probably look to pick one up pretty quick here. Im encouraged as there is progress, but cautiously optomistic because i know its a long road.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
As I was going through the L-Jet diagnostic, I came across a CTS (coolant temp sensor) that reads OL (open line) on the conductivity test. Im assuming this means the sensor is bad. The car is cold as it only starts for a second then dies. This is a project car that was sitting in a barn for 10 years and was running when dropped off. Im trying to get it going again.
 

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If a timing light is not available, another method is to just look at the tach. If the tach drops to zero and THEN the engine stops, suspect the ignition system. If the tach drops WHILE the engine stops, suspect fuel.
 

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This is a project car that was sitting in a barn for 10 years and was running when dropped off. Im trying to get it going again.
Are we dealing with 10 year old gasoline? Gas does not store well - especially for that long! The fuel injectors are likely to be clogged. Consider having them properly serviced. Places like Cruizin Performance or OK Injectors will clean them with solvents in an ultrasonic bath and flow/leak test them before & after treatment. New seals and new fuel rail to injectors hoses will have the fuel injection parts good as new.


If a timing light is not available, another method is to just look at the tach.
Hey! The guy already said he wanted to buy a timing light. Don't be taking away his excuse.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Not dealing with 10 year old gas. Tank drained, lines cleaned and inspected, filter replaced, in tank fuel pump replaced, 5 fresh gallons of fuel added. Today new spark plugs, considering new wires, and going step by step through the L-Jet diagnostic info.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
All,
Will a bad CTS (coolant temp sensor) stop the car from running? I have been going through the L-Jet diagnostics and so far, this is the only thing I have found to not match up with the info. When I ohm it out, I get O.L. or 0 resistance. The guide says I
should have 2k - 3k ohms @ 86*F.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
All,
Yeah, shes running and staying running. Now the next main issue is the clutch pedal goes straight to the floor and does not seem to engage the disc. Is there a clutch adjustment for dummies guide out there? If so, I need it...
 

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Your Spider has a hydraulic clutch. Is there fluid in the master cylinder reservoir? The system may need to be bled of air - or more likely - rebuilt. If you are replacing one component it'd be best to replace all - master cylinder, slave cylinder & flex hose. Inspect the steel line for damage or corrosion - if good it usually does not need to be replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Eric,
There was no fluid in the master cylinder, so I filled it with breke fluid. The pedal stiffened up slightly, but not enough to shift into gear. I inspected the boot under the car and found a slight leak. I think the car needs a clutch job. What do you think? Do you have any advice on this? What would this cost for a mechanic shop to do it?
 
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