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Discussion Starter #1
Around 55 mph the car begins to shake sometimes. And lately it seems to be getting a bit worse. I don't notice any strange noises at all. Other than getting the shakes the car drives nice. After parking it, I went around to all the hubs and the front passenger side was really hot. My first inclination was a bad bearing so I began to tear everything apart. I've got the outer washer, outer bearing, and rotor off but the inner bearing looks a bit difficult to remove carefully so I stopped.

I had that tire balanced and it checked out fine. The outer bearing looks ok.

I'm wondering if I should be looking for something else instead of potentially trashing the inner bearing/seal trying to get to them.

The outer half of the caliper looks like it is partially busted??? (see picture) The brake pad itself looks normal to me.

I don't what I should start with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I see. I assumed that the "step" wasn't supposed to be there.

I don't understand what you mean by "dragging caliper." Where should I look for wear or how do I diagnose that issue?

And in the event you are correct about the hot hub, the wobble on the road would be a separate issue?
 

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The caliper is not fully releasing the pad from the disc. The vibration is probably something else...bent wheel, unbalanced drive shaft, bad center drive shaft support...
 

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You can lever the inner seal out with a long screwdriver but you will damage it no matter HOW you removed it. We used to just put the washer and nut on the spindle and hook the inner bearing and pull to get both out at 1 time. The seal is easy to install and is the consumable item, unless the bearings need to be replaced.

You do know how to properly "pack" a bearing???

Here is a good video showing how:

 

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I see. I assumed that the "step" wasn't supposed to be there.

I don't understand what you mean by "dragging caliper." Where should I look for wear or how do I diagnose that issue?

And in the event you are correct about the hot hub, the wobble on the road would be a separate issue?
This sounds like a caliper issue. I've had this happen to me and the wheel was so hot, I couldn't touch it. The vibration can be caused by this issue as well. If the car continues having the vibration problem (after you've fixed the overheating issue), check the rotor for warpage.
 

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Around 55 mph the car begins to shake sometimes.

I had that tire balanced and it checked out fine.
How old are the tires? Keep in mind one can balance a square tire... Check for out of round, broken cords, tread separation, etc.

Check the drive shaft for bad U-joints, center bearing and giubo condition.
 

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Just out of curiousity, what caused you to think you needed to split the caliper(s)?
And did you happen to try and get the sealing o-rings that go between the halves before you did the split?

If not, you might be waiting for a while as you begin a search for the proper items.
They are out there mind you, but in many circles splitting the calipers is considered a really bad plan, so getting o-rings (and mabe new bolts while at it onnaconna since it is apart and things have been 'disturbed'...) could prove to be not such an easy task as you'll likely be chastised more than assisted.

I seem to recall someone with a business down in the suspension subsection who regularly split calipers, because that's what thier shop does as part of thier refurb process, that would sell o-rings to individuals.

Uber important that they be replaced as the old ones have taken a set after decades and shouldn't be trusted to seal again upon reassembly. (and no, hardware store rings won't work as a substitute)
 

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After watching that video, I think I really need to watch the video about how mom swallowed the "special lotion".:D
 

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Chances are the rotor is warped from the overheating caused by the dragging caliper/brake pads.
The cure may be to machine the rotor if there is enough material to be within legal spec.
The warped rotor expands, rubs on the stuck brake pads and gives a vibration sensation, especially after some driving, when the rotor gets HOT.
TTFN, Elio
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just out of curiousity, what caused you to think you needed to split the caliper(s)?
And did you happen to try and get the sealing o-rings that go between the halves before you did the split?
I split the calipers because I simply don't know what I'm doing and have a tendency to jump in and ask questions later. I don't have o-rings.

The tires are a bit old. There are small cracks showing in the sidewall and one slight indentation on the sidewall...just perceptible to the touch when you rub your fingers around the tire.

I think I may just pack the outer bearing, put things back together and follow the bad tires/caliper route...moving on to the rotor if needed. Would a back to front tire rotation likely tell me if the wobble is a bad tire?

I have a question on calipers: rockauto.com has a cheap calipers but they list two different types, "loaded" and "semi-loaded." Does anyone know the difference?

Thank you everyone for your input.
 

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I split the calipers because I simply don't know what I'm doing and have a tendency to jump in and ask questions later. I don't have o-rings.

The tires are a bit old. There are small cracks showing in the sidewall and one slight indentation on the sidewall...just perceptible to the touch when you rub your fingers around the tire.

I think I may just pack the outer bearing, put things back together and follow the bad tires/caliper route...moving on to the rotor if needed. Would a back to front tire rotation likely tell me if the wobble is a bad tire?

I have a question on calipers: rockauto.com has a cheap calipers but they list two different types, "loaded" and "semi-loaded." Does anyone know the difference?

Thank you everyone for your input.
Hello,

Loaded means they come with all hardware and pads, semi-loaded means they come with the hardware only and no pads..................... With some calipers "loaded" means they may come with the caliper mounting brackets as well.

If it where me I would not skip over looking at the inner bearing, since the rotor is off just put the rotor on and thread the spindle nut on a few turns and yank the rotor as the nut hooks the bearing to pull the bearing and seal off, then you can inspect the bearing. Next soak both bearings (as long as they are metal) in brake cleaner to remove all the grease and completely dry them and inspect for discolor blue/black indicating heat issues and replace as needed, the bearings can sometimes be matched at napa auto parts. Take care to inspect your spindle with care and inspect for any damage. Re-pack the bearings very well. Next if you have a hung up caliper lets first check to make sure its not just a failed brake hose that has collapsed, drive the car then jack that tire up and try to spin the tire if it does not spin or spins hard then open the bleeder screw on the caliper, if it then turns and turns easy this means the flexable brake hose needs to be replaced and flush the brake fluid system in case of contaniments, if the bleeder screw open does not help then there is a problem with the caliper, ie: a seizing piston or trash in the fluid in most cases.
 

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A loaded caliper includes everything from pads to hardware to shims, unloaded is the caliper only while semi-loaded is a caliper less pads but with hardware.

EDIT: type too slow. Hi kingslandauto
 

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Loaded means that they include brake pads and maybe new harware. Semi may mean just some new hardware. Give us a link??



Darren, 7 minutes for the bearing packing vid or the "swallow" vid :)
 

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Here's a good write up on loaded, semi-loaded and bare calipers:

http://www.ucx.com/documents/loadedcalipers.pdf

What one should understand is that the term of caliper "loaded" means it "always" comes with the caliper, pads and hardware it will always come with those and per some applications also come with the caliper bracket, next the "semi-loaded" caliper will only come with a caliper and the hardware, next the bare caliper, it will only come with the caliper and the brake hose washers per application, no pads no hardware and no bracket. Now one should also note that there are levels of calipers one can purchase like the standard and the prem versions, as well as versions of pads like organic, semi-metalic, metalic, ceramic, severe duty and so on.

Also note on the old calipers if the piston boots are missing, or torn this would mean that they need to be rebuilt or replaced, you can obtain caliper rebuild kits for these but the best ive found is it comes with only the 2 rings for the piston which is just the beginning and is easier to just replace them for the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
thanks everyone again. My status as "junior member" is showing through: I finally removed the inner brake pad to reveal this
 

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