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Discussion Starter #1
Just had my transaxle rebuilt with new synchros lightening of gears, etc.
Clutch was beginning to slip so also had it relined (single plate). When I got the units back and installed had a whinning in deceleration in gears 1 to 4. 5th was O.K. Shop said send it back so I did, 4 months later finally received the gearbox back, they redid the stack-up to pinion. Any way now I have the unit back in the car and can't get the clutch to work. Replaced the slave cylinder the first time it was out. Yesterday I replaced the master cylinder but still have the same problem. There is no resistance to the clutch pedal at all, falls right to the floor. (the clutch was always heavy) I've power bled the unit a few times, no air. I can feel the clutch fork moving just a 1/4 of an inch or so and then hitting resistance. I just removed the fork again but it seemed lined up on the throwout O.K. Can move the fork back and forth manually and hear a slight clunk when it comes to the end of travel. If there were air in the lines and I pumped the clutch pedal at least I should get something, right? Could this be a stuck clutch plate? I can engage all gears with engine off. ( no puddles of fluid either)
Could the plate really rust up after just 4 months?
Anybody got any suggestions?
Baffled

Thanks
Will
 

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Dunno, but I've had a sod of a time getting air out of the system (on a 75, but its all the same). No idea what the magic step is, but messing about trying everything from letting it just gravity feed, letting it sit, blowing, sucking, pumping the $#!t out of it eventually works...

I've done it twice, the second time with new everything (clutch kit, master and slave cylinders) it was just as horrible to get working both times.

Of course, that could just prove my incompetence....
 

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Richard Jemison
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Clutch issues

Yesterday I replaced the master cylinder but still have the same problem. There is no resistance to the clutch pedal at all, falls right to the floor. (the clutch was always heavy) I've power bled the unit a few times, no air. I can feel the clutch fork moving just a 1/4 of an inch or so and then hitting resistance.
I`m assumining the clutch goes to the floor, even though tou say that it has "resistance", But does not disengage.

The system is very hard to bleed.
With someone depressing the petal, bleed the systen at the connection of the line on the master cyl. Between the times you are cracking it open, under pressure have your assistant depress the petal sharply several times then hold to the floor for a few seconds before you open the connection. This will work the air bubble up toward the MC.

That is a pull type clutch release. Do you have the arm hooked under the back of the ball pivot?

Put towel around MC to protect the paint! ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
so it looks like I should bleed the @#$% out of the clutch, nobody thinks that its the clutch plate frozen or rusted.
 

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I would bleed the @#$% out of the clutch,etc. first because it is so tricky and also the cheapest/easiest solution as opposed to pulling everything out again. How old is the pressure plate, could it be malfunctioning? The plate shouldn't be frozen unless it was installed wrong. Mine had been sitting for 10 years and still hadn't frozen up...
 
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