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I'm working on an engine with Spica injection, and attempting removal of the bolt (not a nut)holding the front pulley to the crankshaft-with no success.
I'm assuming the bolt is a righthand thread, and I'm using a powerful air impact tool which has left obvious "nicks" on the bolthead-implying great force.
Any suggestions? Could this be a lefthand thread? BillyI
 

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Billy I cant recall seeing an alfetta with a bolt on the front crank pulley. Its supposed to be a nut. Anyway if its seized on that tight try getting the oxy in there and heating it up. You will destroy the seal and what ever else you melt but if its stuck firm I guess thats the next solution.

Last year I had a harmonic balancer on a 460 ford that wouldn't budge even with the crank bolt out and I had to resort to extreme heat and molestation (broke the timing casing). Sometimes **** just doesn't want to come apart.
 

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If you heat it up you will ruin the harmonic balancer for no reason at all. They are hard to get too. I would rent a more powerful impact tool or just use the old starter motor trick. Have a friend sit in the driver's seat with the car in neutral, handbrake on.Put the 1/2 inch drive socket on a large handle clicked to the loosen position. Put it on the nut with the handle resting on the passengers side. All you have to do is put a finger where the wrench is on the nut so when the engine turns you are letting the wrench rotate freely with the engine. The wrench slaps on the chassis on the drivers side and voila! Works every time. An Alfa mechanic taught me that years ago. Remember to flatten out the washer bent at the nut!
 

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one pop with a 1 inch gun and it will come off. Lefty loosey for this bolt(it is a bolt that passes through front crank seal). you have to remove radiator and center grill and go through the big hole. also need to jack engine up a few cm's to line everything up. to get the center grill out, you have to pop off center emblem and loosen phillips screw. you may have to sacrifice the center emblem as it usually breaks the pins during this operation.

do not put it in gear and use handbrake method. If bolt is frozen, you will damage the guibos or trans with by using long breaker bar.

I would not suggest using a flywheel lock either.

I had my trans in neutral and the 1 inch gun (harbor freight 100$) popped it right off without even turning the crank. you will also need the correct size socket and a 3/4 extension (sears sells them)

crank pulley should come off easily as it is not wedged in place.

to change the injector belt, remeber to line up 'I' mark on crank pulley and injector pulley mark (hard to see sometimes)

also, you will need to use puller on injector pulley after loosening the nut. I use small puller with arms in holes rather than on the lip. You will have to assemble the belt on the injector pulley and mount the pulley as last step and sometimes it is a half tooth off. if it is, Make it a 1/2 tooth off in the advanced position(turn 1/2 tooth to right...because at 7000 rpms, you would rather have fuel out injector early rather than late..but it probably won't make much difference...i'm just picky)

this is a picture of me, I'm very small....or it is a really big impact gun....
 

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More than one way to skin a cat.

Italcarnut I forgot about the rubber in the harmonic balancer however these are not hard to obtain here at all so that would be the least of my worries.

A picture of the offending item once conquered would be appreciated.

Edit: You guys are playing around with spica injection. I know nothing about the intricacies of these engines.
 
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