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Discussion Starter #1
My Sedan has the Shankle Sure Start kit on it, and I recently got a Spica Thermostatic Actuator from my father's Alfa pile (deep in the bowels of his basement). I was going to put it on, see if it worked (figured it couldn't hurt).

I started doing all this while out in the garage working on something else on the car. I figured it would be a quick thing. Wrong.

I couldn't get the top part of the broken actuator off (the part screwed in near the throttle bodies)...I figured the problem was I couldn't get a wrench in there. End wrenches wouldn't fit either...but I seemed to remember taking it out before, to replace a leaking seal.

I ended up filing down an old socket, and getting it to fit perfectly...but...it broke the stud, the nut had rusted onto it apparently.

It looks as though it won't leak. I started the car up and let it get warm...no leaking so far.

Anyone know if this is going to be a problem later on? Any way to replace the broken stud? Its really small.

Grrrr

Thanks,

Ted
 

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That same bolt took me two hours to figure out how to take it off!! No normal socket would ever fit in there.

I was lucky that I have a X socket (?) (those with 4 sockets on a X) which has a very thin wall from a Tamiya RC model car laying around in my toolbox - PERFECT fit. That bolt is the same size as the bolt that locks the wheels on RC cars. You can get that from any RC stores.

To remove the broken screw/stud, you need the Craftsman 4 pc. Drill-Out Power Extractor or something like that. I've used them for a few times, pretty easy.

Hope that helps :D
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had to make a socket fit...filed an old one down...just wish it hadn't snapped the stud. I just replaced the intake manifold a couple of months ago, was hoping I had that side of the car sorted! ;)

I'll check out the tap set...looks like I'll be busy this weekend :p

Ted
 

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I was able to use a standard 7mm Craftsman socket (1/4" drive). The stud backed out as the nut reached the end of the stud, however. Probably a buggered end. BTW, used a penetrating oil before attempting removal. If you have corrosion, it'd be best to wire brush it off the threads as best you can before attempting an extraction. I always look at small bolts and nuts as potential problems . . . especially anything close to the cooling system.

If that won't fit, you can try a 7mm open end wrench using the end only and a vice-grip on the wrench to give you turning leverage. This will only work if the nut is not corroded.

Good reason to use something to keep the corrosion out when you reinstall it.
 
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