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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all-
I'm in the process of removing the air pump/bracket/air lines, etc from my 77 Spider. I removed the pump itself, and then the outer nuts holding the mounting bracket to the head. But now, to get the bracket off, the pulley mounted to the bracket hits the fan. Has anyone removed this bracket and has any insight? I tried to remove the pulley itself, but the nut just spun so I assume it is a bolt/nut holding it on and I can't get to the the bold head to hold it in place. I also tried to remove the pulley bracket that is mounted to the main bracket- but the bolt heads hit the pulley before the bolts are completely out. See photo.

Also, once the bracket is out of the way, I want to remove the two large studs threaded into the head when the casting plugs are supposed to go. How do these come off? Maybe just double-nut them or possible get a thin wrench on the large inner casting?

Does anyone have a couple of these original plugs I could buy to fill in these holes once I get the mounting studs out?

Lastly- once I get the air injector lines off (soaking them with Kroil for a few days now) what size plug do I need to fill the holes in the exhaust manifold.

I will keep all of these components for the next owner if they wish to install them. The air pump is very difficult to spin so I'm glad to get rid of it.

Thanks-
John

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Also, once the bracket is out of the way, I want to remove the two large studs threaded into the head when the casting plugs are supposed to go. How do these come off? Maybe just double-nut them or possible get a thin wrench on the large inner casting?
A hacksaw. The studs do not screw into the big hex nuts, they are a single part. You should be able to unscrew them with a pipe wrench if you don't plan to re-use them or you could use a socket and breaker bar if you have one big enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
A hacksaw. The studs do not screw into the big hex nuts, they are a single part. You should be able to unscrew them with a pipe wrench if you don't plan to re-use them or you could use a socket and breaker bar if you have one big enough.
Yea- I should be able to get them off in without destroying them... hopefully. I can't see how anyone could time this car with that bracket in the way of the timing pointer and marks.
Thanks
 

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I'm in the process of removing the air pump/bracket/air lines, etc from my 77 Spider.
I assume Maine has no emissions inspection requirement and you are confident that one won't be imposed during your ownership of this car.

Not that I'm in favor of retaining useless junk like that air pump - I doubt any of that 70's era equipment accomplishes much by today's standards - but here in California, you couldn't (legally) register a '77 spider without its air pump.

You might consider unbolting all the emissions-related stuff and boxing it up for the next owner (who may live in a state with emissions testing). Instead of hacksawing off those studs, you could remove the stud-plug parts and replace them with the earlier, allen-head plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I assume Maine has no emissions inspection requirement and you are confident that one won't be imposed during your ownership of this car.

Not that I'm in favor of retaining useless junk like that air pump - I doubt any of that 70's era equipment accomplishes much by today's standards - but here in California, you couldn't (legally) register a '77 spider without its air pump.

You might consider unbolting all the emissions-related stuff and boxing it up for the next owner (who may live in a state with emissions testing). Instead of hacksawing off those studs, you could remove the stud-plug parts and replace them with the earlier, allen-head plugs.
Yes- there is no emission requirement in Maine.

Agreed. I'm not destroying anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm waiting on a 41mm wrench to get those large studs off the front of the engine. I'm also in the process of removing the radiator to gain the room I need to remove the bracket.

I've also started to remove the air rail. The front two nuts/lines into the exhaust manifold loosened easily- but the rear two are not budging. I've put days of Kroil penetrant and heat to them, I just can't get a solid grab on them.

I have a 14mm flare wrench, but as I get enough leverage on the wrench, the opening in the wrench starts to flex and round the edges of the nuts. I'm thinking I might just remove the entire exhaust manifold with the rail in place since I'm planning on replacing the manifold with a 2-piece manifold.

I have already removed the heat shield thing (still attached in photo) that the large air hose attaches to that goes across the engine to the air filter box.

Any pointers to get those two air-rail nuts off on the exhaust manifold without destroying them?

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Thanks- John
 

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Maine's cow farts will do more damage than one Alfa up there.....
 

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So I just removed the entire exhaust manifold and down-pipe- no issues. That rear-most nut holding the manifold to the head is in a tight spot- that one took as long as the other 7.
Next up- two-piece exhaust manifold and new exhaust system.

The #4 exhaust port was oily and the other three were dry. Any ideas as to why?

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I'm thinking I might just remove the entire exhaust manifold with the rail in place since I'm planning on replacing the manifold with a 2-piece manifold.
sounds like a good plan.
With a euro 2 piece manifold you will also have to get the correct down-pipes, because the flange/s will be different. That, on top of ridding the engine of the outdated smog stuff, will make your car breathe again.

OH (edit) you have just done it! Now you can see how restrictive that exhaust contraption is!
 

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So I just removed the entire exhaust manifold and down-pipe- no issues. That rear-most nut holding the manifold to the head is in a tight spot- that one took as long as the other 7.
Next up- two-piece exhaust manifold and new exhaust system.

The #4 exhaust port was oily and the other three were dry. Any ideas as to why?

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After I ditched all my useless smog stuff I went for headers and a flex pipe to replace the catalytic converter.
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An oily individual exhaust port could be a leaking valve seal and/or valve guide. Could also be lots of blow by from bad rings, how’s compression? I guess it could also be brake fluid but I would think that would get burnt on the way through. Did it idle lots last time it was run?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
sounds like a good plan.
With a euro 2 piece manifold you will also have to get the correct down-pipes, because the flange/s will be different. That, on top of ridding the engine of the outdated smog stuff, will make your car breathe again.

OH (edit) you have just done it! Now you can see how restrictive that exhaust contraption is!
Agreed! Should be much simpler to work on, easier breathing and less complicated.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
An oily individual exhaust port could be a leaking valve seal and/or valve guide. Could also be lots of blow by from bad rings, how’s compression? I guess it could also be brake fluid but I would think that would get burnt on the way through. Did it idle lots last time it was run?
I recently purchased the car, so was only able to drive it a mile or so until it warmed up and started running really poorly because of a later discovered dead thermostatic actuator. Once I replace that and get her running again, I'll do a compression and possibly a leak-down test. I'm sure I will find something amiss in cylinder 4.

I did notice that the plug wire for #4 was a very loose fit in the distributor cap and have a new set of wires and cap on the way.
 
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