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Alfa Steve --

Here are 2 pics of the dash of my '76 Alfetta that I'm parting out up in Portland. I think it is just under your "less than 10 cracks" guideline:cool: Let me know if you have any interest in the dash or anything else.

Richard aka deuce-coupe
 

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Discussion Starter #42
Just about done with the interior. Scraped and brushed off all the insulation and fuzz and yuck on the floor. Going to spray the interior with Eastwood Sound And Heat Barrier, and then follow up with DynaMat on the floor and tunnel for extra heat control. Last step is to pull the pedals.
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While you have it all apart, I'd replace the ignition switch.
I've had two of them fail on me.
They're a pain in the *ss to remove due to the security bolt that is underneath.
They are rounded off at the factory as an anti theft measure.
I used a tiny piece of hacksaw blade to file a small groove in the head of the bolt, then was able to remove it with a flat headed screw driver.
 

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I can't even imagine what you are going through. It is great that you have the means to do a total restoration. I have been very lucky to still own a 76 Alfetta GT I bought new here in California. Fortunately this car was garaged for all those years. 90k and still running strong. All is original except for wheels and side view mirror and upholstery. Will be following your restoration closely......Wishing you the very best......
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Justs tarted following...great thread. On the bumpers, you want to get rid of all that ugly weight. Chances are if you get hit, it will be from a taller car anyway and they will not help.

On the turn signals/running lights, as a temporary measure that I've never swapped out, I put these lights into the wire grommet holes from the front turn siglnals. They popped right in. not the largest things, but they can be seen at night and work as running lights and signals.


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Discussion Starter #48
Thanks for following! Bumpers are gone - i'm going to have my local restoration shop remove the bumper mountings and re-fab over the holes in the front piece. Same with the back. i'm planning on using the United Lighting 5 3/4" H4 housing that has integrated LED running/turn signal lights on the outside set of headlights - that way, I won't have to cut into the front piece and/or create any new holes in the sheetmetal. Love the little LED's on your sedan - very cool!
 

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I have the United 7" lights with built in turn and running lights on my Spider.

Here's a link to the 5 3/4 ones.

Paul, are those little LEDs bright enough in the daytime?
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Whether or not they are bright enough in the daylight is an interesting question.

I have not had a bad interaction with other motorists. But, I’ve never seen them from the other side of an intersection.


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Discussion Starter #51
I’m gonna go with that solution to start. If I get too many flip-off’s from the Subaru’s here in Eugene, I’ll craft an LED onto the front below the headlights...
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Much of a learning day today. Removed the windows and trim from the passenger's side. All I can say is that the Haynes Manual makes it look very easy... NOT! The "wing vent" or "fly vent", or the "that little triangle in front" is fighting me all the way. I need help/suggestions on removing the "whatever it is" that holds the shaft from the bottom. Haynes calls it a "Wedge Bolt" - I call it "#$%&@@#"!!! Here are two pics of it, shot looking up at it from the bottom of the door. The third pic is of the car with all the glass and most of the trim removed (except for the aforementioned wing-thingy). Any advice?

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