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Discussion Starter #1
My car had been sitting one month waiting new thrust bearing and I finally got it installed. Everything worked - for 40kms.
Then the car just shut down like the gasoline would have run out
However, that wasn’t the case since I filled a can of fuel in tank but no help.
Then I checked all fuses and connections but could not find anything wrong.

This morning the first starting was promising, engine ran 5-10 seconds but then it died.
It sounds to me that injectors stopped working all in sudden.
I checked fuel pump, it runs. Also opened LE jetronic AFM, looks right, I suppose?


Any ideas where to continue searching?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Open the flap by hand while ignition is on

Wysłane z mojego RNE-L21 przy użyciu Tapatalka
Thank for this info, definitely will try this. But what if it happens that fuel pump does not turn on? What is typical places to continue searching problem?
 

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If the car ran 5-10 seconds on a cold start then my guess is it is running on the fuel injected by the cold start injector. If that is the case then the fuel pump is probably still working.

If the fuel pump does not turn on then the first thing to check is that it is still good, you can run 12v directly to the hot post and it should turn on (and the car start and run). If it doesn't then you know the pump is bad. If it does turn on then check to make sure you are getting 12v to the hot post when the air flow meter flap is open (just pop open the air box and put a screwdriver handle in there to hold the flap open if you are by yourself and turn the key to the run (not start) position.

If that is all running correctly then you should run through Greg Gordons Bosch Fuel Injection troubleshooting document, which will help you diagnose some of the sensors and other parts of the fuel system.

Kevin
 

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Many intermittent fuel pump issues can be traced to the double relay. Run a jumper wire from the battery + post to the fuel pump + post. Pump should run continuously (if pump ground connection is good). Check injector pulse with a NOID light. An inexpensive tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Many thanks for your responses - so it seems that I have many things to try tomorrow.
According to another related topics the double relay seems to be typical symptom. Someone had made that relay work (for a while) by hammering it slightly. Maybe little "knocking" is something that I'll try.
I read Greg's instructions, will be a good support on this "mission" to make Alfa run again :)
 

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If your fuel pump physically works but doesn’t turn on with the key in run and the afm flap open then look at the chart in this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well, tested today afm flap opening. Fuel pump runs and creates pressure.

Due to my limited freetime for next couple of weeks I had to take the car to Alfa specialist in nearby. Let’s hope they find reason and that the repair won’t cost fortune...
 

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Please post the results of the diagnosis and repair. Good luck!
 

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I had an intermittent start/run issue on my Milano, aka Mostro. All the parts checked out separately and I couldn't figure it out. Joe Cabibbo pointed me to a connector that I had never had problems with before that ended up being the problem. It's a square, large multi-pin connector in the engine compartment near the combo relay. The pin that connects the fuel pump power supply wire had oxidized. Cleaned, all good. Since this is not your issue it seems, great - but it may help someone else.

A weak or intermittent ground connector at the thermostat housing can cause issues. Same for the coolant temperature sender at the thermostat housing. These are critical connections for the Jetronic ECU. The injectors will not fire without these connections.
 

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DOUBLE RELAY TEST- to get fuel injectors to work. remove the retaining screw from the double relay
so you can read the terminal blade numbers underneath it. Take a (+) wire from the (+) battery terminal to
blade 88Z. Connect another (+) wire to terminal 88 B ( which is on the opposite module )
With a (+) charge going to both 88Z and 88B, the fuel injectors will work, if the PUMP is good, and the AFM is good.
4 Domani, 164, and Milano Verde
 

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Discussion Starter #15
DOUBLE RELAY TEST- to get fuel injectors to work. remove the retaining screw from the double relay
so you can read the terminal blade numbers underneath it. Take a (+) wire from the (+) battery terminal to
blade 88Z. Connect another (+) wire to terminal 88 B ( which is on the opposite module )
With a (+) charge going to both 88Z and 88B, the fuel injectors will work, if the PUMP is good, and the AFM is good.
4 Domani, 164, and Milano Verde
I followed these instruction, and read also these: Simple Testing Procedure for GTV6 Dual Relay

What kind of resistance values should I get? Or does it matter? At least both coils clicks.

1656883

My multimeter.
1656884

The relay.

I have a small DC powersource - practical for this like tests. First test:
1656881

earth to pin 85 and 12v to pin 86 . Multimeter to 88C and the other lead on pin 88D. Multimeter value visible on background, 00.8 and ohm measurement set to smallest, 200.

1656882

Earth on 85, 12v to pin 86C. Multimeter on OHMS again one lead on 88Z and the other on 88B.
Similar resistance value again.

I suppose my relay is working as intended, so problem is somewhere else? Maybe harness?
 

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In post 10 you said the fuel pump runs with afm flap open, that’s really all the test you have to do for the dual relay. If it works then the internal circuits are good.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Sadly compressions of the engine were totally lost meaning that belt had jumped and valves bent.
Anyways, due to current conditions and lack of free time I had to let my Alfa go and sell it away.
 

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Sorry for your loss.
 
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