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Discussion Starter #1
I currently have the cylinder head off my 74 Spider. The SPICA is still attached. I figured since it took a few weeks of maneuvering the head up and down before finally it finally decided to come off the block, I may as well replace the engine mounts. It seemed like a brilliant idea with everything basically out of my way. Once I can get the mounts on, I can replace the head gasket (and other gaskets), replace all the coolant hoses, etc., etc. and hopefully get the car running properly.

I was able to get the car up on my ramps, so it’s elevated about 6 inches, giving me plenty of room to work underneath. I placed a 17 inch long 2X8 under the oil pan, jacked it up a bit, and easily removed both mounts. These things were likely the originals and were squished and warped to hell.

Now, no matter what I do, I cannot get either new mount on the car. They just will not line up on the driver side. I’ve currently got it attached to the studs on the block, but nothing I do will get the mount base to line up with the studs on the cross member. It’s as if the engine is too far back (the mount is about 2 inches off from the stud) which I’m thinking has to be from the car being inclined on the ramps.

If I keep the new passenger side mount intact, it’s way too big to do anything with it. I cannot push the engine far enough away to get the mount to attach to the cross member or the block. If I disassemble the mount, I can easily attach the base to the cross member. I cannot, however, get the top part of the mount to attach to the three studs on the block or the base of the mount. Not really even close.

I’ve tried every trick I’ve read on the Alfa BB and every curse word in English and Italian. I’ve raised and lowered the engine on both sides as far as it will go. Nothing. I’ve tried to raise the transmission hoping it would level out the engine block, and there’s no significant change. It improves things a little bit but not enough to make a difference.

I’m at a loss. Does anyone have any other ideas for me to try? Should I back the car off the ramps and get it level? I’m running out of logical ideas and Moretti.
 

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I've been told it's all in the order you do it. OFF/Removal---do the left first then the right with some levering the engine... the ON/Install.. reverse in the same order.. Right first then left.
 

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If you were to temporarily undo the crossmember mount for the transmission you should be able to push the engine around some more, at least back/forward and left/right, no?
If you remove it altogether, you’ll also be able to lift the tranny, if that helps.
it would be easier to wrangle the trans back into correct location than the engine mounts, I’m thinking, given where you are currently at.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, guys. After Easter brunch, my brother in-law helped me roll her off the ramps and get her level. The move seems to have helped a good bit. I played around with both sides for about 30 minutes earlier, and I still just couldn't quite get either side where it needs to be.

divotsandtralee, I was actually trying your method and it just was not working. I figured I would start with the more difficult passenger side, to no avail. Then, examining the space on the opposite side of the car, I thought I would create more room on the passenger side by having the driver side mount attached, effectively pulling it away from the passenger side. No luck, obviously.

Ranz, I may give your ideas a go this week but am hoping I don't have to. Every time I touch some new area or part of the car, I end up having something else to fix or replace ?
 

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You are on the right track in getting the car level first. I would put the car up on four jack stands at the jack points. A floor jack strategically placed under the sump might help too. I had my gearbox and radiator out when I did mine and it still was tricky lining up the driver's side mount over the studs. Don't give up. You can do it.
 

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Jack the engine up until the trans hits the tunnel. Then lower a little bit.

Sounds like your not getting the engine high enough.

Leave the left side off and put the right on. Then put the left on. Before putting any of the engine mount nuts on. Install the bolt and nut onto the cross member. This will let you wiggle the mount around to get them to line up.

Then let engine down.

Which mounts are you trying to put on. The square or round rubber ones?
 

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Jack the engine up until the trans hits the tunnel. Then lower a little bit.

Sounds like your not getting the engine high enough.

Leave the left side off and put the right on. Then put the left on. Before putting any of the engine mount nuts on. Install the bolt and nut onto the cross member. This will let you wiggle the mount around to get them to line up.

Then let engine down.

Which mounts are you trying to put on. The square or round rubber ones?
Jim.. You and I have exchanged on this topic and I'm not there yet...Point of clarification... Is it necessary to disconnect the trans support or the through bolt on the rear silent block to raise everything to the levels you say or is that something the guibo flex allows?.. PS Careful with lifting the engine while the car is on stands withot unbolting all the fasteners on the mounts. You don't want to walk into something that is not fully supported at all four corners.. I hate jack stands more that extension ladders. Might even consider ramps as safer with chocks. I break out into a sweat every time a crawl under a car that can hurt me or I'm doing something dumb..
 

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I have never undone the trans mount. I don't see how it will help. There is only so much space between the trans and the tunnel.

All nuts and bolts can be gotten to from above. Although the 2 nuts holding the motor mount to the car are easiest to get to from underneath.

With all the nuts and bolts undone. Lifting the engine with a floor jack will give you enough room to remove the mounts. You do not want the motor pined against the tunnel. But high enough that you can move the engine side to side.

As I before. Remove the left side then the right. Then install the right then the left. All will take some type of swiveling or wiggling to get in.

The round mounts which are what the OEM mounts look like. The aftermarket round mounts have the passenger base bonded on crooked. It takes a far amount of twisting the get the holes to line up. Easiest thing is to open up the slot on the upper hole.

I no longer use the round ones. Just the square ones. Which seams to be what everyone is selling now. They are reproductions of the better mounts that were made by Pirelli bock in the day.
 

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WHat I do is to loosen the mount to motor nuts, to let that flop around a bit, and sometimes I have to loosen the motor mount plate nuts as well. However, re-tightening them in-situ is difficult -- not impossible, but the one way in the back gets turned 1/32 of a rev per wrench (and I need to cycle through 2 wrenches that are clocked differently).
I agree with removing the 4 bolts holding the trans cross member and allowing some more fore and aft, as well as yaw movement to the motor itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. I’m currently in the garage now fiddling with the passenger mount. When I had the car on ramps under the front tires, I was able to easily remove both mounts. I removed the left side first, then the right. I don’t want to put the car on jack stands because the jack points and rockers are rusted. I also share divotandtralee’s thoughts on getting under the car while it’s jacked up. Don’t like it. As an aside, the plan is to get her running properly, then have the floorpans, rockers, rocker panels, etc. replaced.

Anyway, I’ve got her level, and I’ve jacked the engine until the transmission hits the tunnel. Then I’ve got it backed down just enough so I can shove the engine side to side. I’ve posted a pic of where I’m at on the right side. With my two hands, I can only shove the engine away from me so much and I can’t get the mount to line up/attach to the three engine studs. I’ve repositioned the jack as I’ve read in other engine mount posts, and where I’m at currently (right side, slightly toward the center of the oil pan) seems to have gotten me the closest.

Is there a different angle of attack I should try with the mount? The SPICA is kind of in the way, but I don’t think removing it is A-necessary or B—a path I’d like to go down right now. As mentioned in an earlier post, every time I touch or remove something new, I end up having one more thing to repair or replace. I’ve tried to come at it from under the car, over the top, in the middle, from the SPICA side, etc. I’ve tried different twist directions, cursing, more beer, and while I’m close, it’s not good enough.
1622209
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Jack the engine up until the trans hits the tunnel. Then lower a little bit.

Sounds like your not getting the engine high enough.

Leave the left side off and put the right on. Then put the left on. Before putting any of the engine mount nuts on. Install the bolt and nut onto the cross member. This will let you wiggle the mount around to get them to line up.

Then let engine down.

Which mounts are you trying to put on. The square or round rubber ones?
Round mounts from Centerline.
 

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Well, that’s how they fit in my spider and GTV... I can’t imagine trying to get them to fit the other way...???
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well. That job was comically easy. Both mounts are installed. I don’t have any skinned knuckles, but my ego is totally crushed for the oversight. Totally crushed. Thanks to all for helping an Alfaholic whose brain is clearly overworked during this stay at home stuff. Thanks, goats!
 

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Motor mounts on Spica up to 79 are the easiest ones to do. As you don't have the bit intakes to deal with.

Good Job!!
 

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Glad to hear you successfully changed your motor mounts. I haven't touched mine yet, but in the future, I know what to look for and what to do.
 
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