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OK, so having read the great threads on mount replacement I have a question.

There's that one bolt on the passenger side that is almost flush to the mount bracket and hemmed in by the SPICA unit. I saw mention of thin walled sockets and bent wrenches.

From the looks of it a curved crow's foot wrench might work. Can anyone tell me exactly what they used and where I can get one so that I can have it on hand before I start the job?

Thanks,

Nick
 

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1966-2013
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I doubt a crows foot would work simply due to lack of swing room and certainly the clearance the 'toes' would need just to get on the nut.
You might get one small turn out of it, then the flats won't line up for any more.

When riveroflava did his mounts here, we ended up bending a 12 point box end wrench.
 

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Sometimes coming at that bolt from below, with a thin 13mm box wrench, or manifold wrench that has a cranked handle, can get at it.
Andrew
 

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Keep in mind that these mounts are flexible. And, that an old mount is even more flexible - it will sag under the weight of the engine, leaving less clearance to get the wrench in there.

You are going to have to support your engine while the mounts are out. Start lifting it BEFORE unbolting things. You can raise the engine by putting a jack under the sump (use a piece of wood to spread the load). Raising the engine by 1/2" or so will provide more access room for the wrenches.
 

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When I was pulling the engine on my '73, I found that the only access was from below. Also, if you have an engine hoist, try using it to lift the engine a little bit to give some additional access to the nut. I had to do this on my car because the mount had collapsed so much over the years it had trapped the nut; the car had been sitting untouched for nearly 20 years when I bought it, and I don't think the mounts had ever been changed.

Best regards,
 

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A bit of a revival for this thread and this very 'fun' issue. I just did an R&R of the right/passenger side Spica equipped 1979 Spider motor mount ( left side is a breeze).....that took all of 20-25 minutes...I'm still in shock, perhaps dreaming or not out of the recovery room from a lower GI procedure of some sort...
This is my 4th set of mounts put on 4 different cars, and maybe experience/practice certainly helped, but man...zoom...
You've read it before, very frustrating, tight space, skin grafts required afterwards....and helpful input variations that work at different levels, but this was like the part in 'Caddyshack' when the guy had the golf round of his life..even in the rain...but without the end part where he gets hit by a bolt of lightining and dies of severe burns...
Lifted the engine slightly to help with the inside lower 13mm nut coming off the frame stud..Then two of the three 13mm nuts into the engine block flew off with a flex socket and long extension. The PIA third nut, closest to the Spica, always my nemesis, allowed no socket, and only one lucky 1/12th turn of a box end wrench.
All my 13mm and 1/2 inch options didn't work, and then...found a box end 1/2 that must be from the Jurrassic Period, from my grandfather's old tool box... worn...slightly different cadence of the teeth perhaps... but it went right on, loosened the nut in a few 1/12th turns...off with my fingers..
Jacked engine up another inch or so and the old mount lifted right out. I kept looking for a hidden camera or the "Dateline' guy.....nothing..
Cleaned up the area a bit, ran a tap and die over the lower stud on frame, just in case, then the new mount dropped in and everything went on finger-easy. I needed to use my mega-screwdriver to help line up the outer/only frame bolt...tightened everyone, with the inside frame nut taking the longest, but by putting my arm to the left of the fuel filter..I was allowed access to tighten the final 2 full turns.... Poof... done..
I'm not bragging here... just a bit stunned.. in a good way. The previous 3 sets have all extracted blood some way or another. Nice to have one of these more typical PIA repairs go well...
And I owe it to the antique box end that was worn enough to allow access into that cramped little spot...
back to your regularly scheduled programming...
 

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on thing..if you do remove the old mounts.....( added note . remove the intake manifold....;l) clean the threaded studs and clean and chase the threads in the frame.. then use anti-seize on the threaded stud, and put a finger full into the treaded hole in the frame.. this will make it easyer to put back togeather..if you have a oil pan guard, get some wood scraps 1" wide x 6" long x 2-3" tall then a 2x4 x 10" to move the motor up. the thinner wood peices will slip between the oil pan guard , and allow the 2x4 to grab onto it.. jack it up.. don't worry how high, those mounts are comming out anyway..and clean the area around the mounts the best you can.. clean is easyer to re-assemble.
 

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also, i don't bolt in eather mount untill both are on the block.. then i lower the motor into the frame. then i 'LOOSELY" rnu the nuts on each on down a turn or two, then with a phillpes driver, line up the bolt side..all the time the motor is on a jack to relive the tension.. after you have it all lined up. lower the motor down, tighten the nuts/ bolts up..
 

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...noooo:):).. unless you can make yourself..really, really.....really small:):).it's not that hard to do....oh,yes..when you remove the intake manifold.clean all the nuts and bolts..anti-seize them....i think i have heard this before:):).. when i did mine( paul sprell motor mounts ) i also removed the starter. cleaned it,put in a new sol. , after all that bugger was on my car for a lot of years.....
 

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get up and close with you mistress.. you alfa, she will like it..:):)
 

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The previous 3 sets have all extracted blood some way or another. Nice to have one of these more typical PIA repairs go well...
You better find something else quick to make the neccisary sacrifice or you may just end up on a flatbed with a blown (insert something expensive and difficult here) to deal with upon your return home.
 

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you have a spica system.. so not the 'intake manifold that is bolted to the head.. just the air cleaner part.
 
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