74 GTV Restoration question

2914 Views 15 Replies 12 Participants Last post by r-mm, May 1, 2011

gammadodger

Discussion Starter · Apr 26, 2011

Hi, I've finally started on my 74 GTV 2000 and will have many questions. The first couple: on the floor is a dense layer of insulation(?) that is fixed firmly to the floor. Anyone know if this is factory installed ? Anyone have experience removing it? I can see one area that is rusting underneath and want to remove the stuff to make the repair. If it's not original I'll probably remove all. Thanks for any help.

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Manx

· #2 · Apr 26, 2011

Hi there, welcome aboard.
There's plenty of threads on this gunk and the fun to be had removing it. Most seem to suggest dry ice, which makes it brittle. Others suggest heat which makes it soft. I experimented with both but found soaking it in some kerosene from a spray bottle made it easiest to remove. I seem to remember someone mentioning that it's packed full of asbestos so you don't want tonnes of it flying around your face.
Good luck.

Aggie57

· #3 · Apr 26, 2011

Its original and plays a big part in noise and vibration suppression. Don't take it off on a road car.

But for the repair area you need to do it actually chips off really easily in big chunks using a hammer and a wide screw driver or very stiff spatula. No need for dry ice or heat. Done many race cars that way. You can replace it afterwards with aftermarket stuff and good strong contact cement.

acalvi

· #4 · Apr 26, 2011

So called "Sound Deadener"

It causes death not only to sound ....

Check the official instructions:

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tussegaaas

· #5 · Apr 26, 2011

sounds like a tasty ****tail :s glad I removed mine wearing a mask and gloves

GTV-GR

· #6 · Apr 26, 2011

didn't know this , and a friend told me today he was using a wire brush to remove this , thanks for the great info man

gammadodger

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 26, 2011

Wow, thanks for all the information. I'll be sure to carefully only remove what I have too. I'll try the hammer and scraper first and asbestos requires a special mask, so I'll be sure to get the right one. Thanks again

acalvi

· #8 · Apr 26, 2011

... and what about front and rear heat shields?

On the upper face there are about 10 mm of what I suppose is pure asbestos!

alfaroad

· #9 · Apr 27, 2011

pure asbestos was in heat shields while the undercoating has also had asbestos in the mix. The shown interior inslulating panels seem just pure "asphalt" material, like the modern types. However it is just my opinion from what I've seen and felt

pancho

· #10 · Apr 27, 2011

Are the heat shields you mention found in the interior or exterior underside of the car?

bellagt

· #11 · Apr 27, 2011

pancho said:
Are the heat shields you mention found in the interior or exterior underside of the car?

Exterior underside

pancho

· #12 · Apr 27, 2011

You're a true Life saver for that info Ken. Thanks to all for bringing this thread up, it really should be a separate sticky thread I feel as a lot of people could have their lives affected in a serious way by this type of substance/work.

gprocket

· #13 · May 1, 2011

Asbestos (assuming that it is indeed a health risk) would only be a problem if it in a free, airborne state. This is encapsulated in thick butyl rubber matrix and wouldn't cause an issue if you ate it...

Personally I hate this stuff and have removed it from every Alfa I've restored. It hardens over time and once it starts to delaminate it will trap moisture and promote rust.

To remove it I use an array of chisels, screwdrivers, picks, butane torches and sandblasting gear. It takes some effort but you can get down to bare metal. Prime with a good epoxy as soon as practical. I like to coat with SEM urethane bedliner (you can tint is you prefer). In the interior I then use a dynamat type product with a foil backing.

This provides a hard, flexible (non-sticky) coating that is a fraction of the weight of the original...

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pancho

· #14 · May 1, 2011 (Edited)

Asbestosis is one of the worst diseases to have as over time the lungs harden and you basically die asphixiated , check James Hardie and the lawsuit against them of many many million dollars here in Australia. Laws about its cleanup and disposal are also stringent.

If this stuff has asbestos and your breaking it up creating dust or pulverizing it with a drill based wire brush then please wear the appropriate protection and do the work in a suitable area. This stuff is bad news.

Johnny Woods

· #15 · May 1, 2011

I have found my Blue Point air powered gasket scraper to be extremely effective at removing that stuff.
This is the only picture I can find SNAP-ON *EXCELLENT!* PGS1004 AIR POWERED SCRAPER SET! | eBay
I am in no way promoting this listing and dont know the seller! I use the narrow blade and find the thicker the sound deadening it is the easier it comes off.
I am sure Harbour Freight sell a copy. I have never tried the dry ice method but it sounds like a good idea.

This is my first post by the way, I have enjoyed browsing this forum for some time. I have a lot of experience in restoration. I have a 72 Spider that I am in the midle of restoring and a 67 Sprint GTV. I hope to have the Giulia on the road in the next couple of months. I will never sell either of them!

Johnny

r-mm

· #16 · May 1, 2011

gammadodger said:
Hi, I've finally started on my 74 GTV 2000 and will have many questions. The first couple: on the floor is a dense layer of insulation(?) that is fixed firmly to the floor. Anyone know if this is factory installed ? Anyone have experience removing it? I can see one area that is rusting underneath and want to remove the stuff to make the repair. If it's not original I'll probably remove all. Thanks for any help.

If I'm reading this correctly your question is about the interior not underside insulation... I used the dry ice method and it was super fun. I was getting 8" square chunks of the stuff off in one whack of a rubber mallet on paint scraper, revealing a factory-perfect black finish underneath Or, revealing nasty rust underneath. Get about 2-4lbs of dry ice, let it sit for ten minutes and start whacking.

I plan to POR-15 the front floorpans and then lay down butyl rubber sheet (from mcmaster carr) as a sound/vibration deadener followed by foil faced foam as a radiant heat barrier. Rubber is gently self adhered to the floor, foil will be strongly adhered to rubber. this way it'll be possible to lift the whole package to inspect for water damage in the future. however according to the can, POR-15 would protect the steel even if there was an aquarium in there.

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