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Discussion Starter #1
I took the motor out ; left gearbox in to work on motor. Then I decided to remove the gearbox and rebuild that. Now, I'm done rebuilding with motor/gearbox/clutch/bellhousing all together and want to re-install.

Easiest method to re-install the magilla -- nose up, or butt up? I can get the front up probably 20 inches maybe by lifing the crossmember. Havent looked in the rear to see what is back there that I can jack up and put on jackstands.

Any advice before I give it a go? Appreciate your help!
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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Jack the rear up, wheels hanging about 3 inches off the ground. Thick blanket on front to protect it from the oil pan. I grab the motor and angle the gearbox end down to clear shifter past firewall. If you haven't already you will have to drop the center trackrod out of the way. It will not go in if you don't. Some pop off one of the ball joints, some remove the three bolts on the idler arm box and drop it that way. One person can do it but two saves the paint. Hope that helps, good luck!
 

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I do it the way Rich shows, and with two or three people. We usually tie a rope to the tranny and run the rope to the front of the car. Then a helper can pull the back of the motor-tranny down as the other person moves everything forward and into place. It's probably obvious, but the shift lever must be removed before the engine-tranny combo will install. Even then it's important to carefully guide the nub of the shifter past the firewall to avoid scratching paint.
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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Helper pers, that's the key!
 

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It's a while since I did a GTV but on Spiders it is a good idea to drop the sway bar to get a bit more clearance in front of the oil pan.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks All. I have removed the tie rod, and cleaned up the engine bay appropriately. At this point I have only the following question -- My limited garage has only a floor jack, a crappy HF bottle jack and a couple of reasonably OK jackstands in addition to my garage sale engine hoist (which works fine and actually can fit within the tires on the front of the GTV!)

Question is -- where should I jack up the back and place my jackstands? Under the rear axle both sides? I'll be careful to chock the front wheels as well --

Many thanks I am excited to get this back together !
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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this may be one of those everyone's got their own method but I myself jack up the rear end by placing the jack under the center of the differential and place the jack stands under the jack points on each side. I have actually left the rear end up and not used jack stands so the car can roll forward or back any little bit required. You can place a small block of wood under the center of the differential to protect it from the center of the jack if you so desire.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK I got it up in the air, rear wheels about 4 or 5 inches -- no prob

Another question -- As I recall, one side of the motor mount is supposed to be a bit taller than the other side--- is it the exhaust side that's a bit taller?

Thanks -- Im getting there!
 

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Take another look at the photo Rich posted. His car is waaaay more than 5" higher in the rear. The higher you raise the rear end, the less tugging on the motor and tranny to get the angle right for installation. Regarding motor mounts, here's where to see a photo from Centerline's catalog: https://www.centerlinealfa.com/115-landing. If your motor mounts have been in the car for several years, you may want to change them now, rather than later.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Gary. I don't think I can get the rear end up much higher safely, maybe a couple inches but that's about it. Suppose I will try as -is and see how much wailing and gnashing of teeth it produces!

Thanks for the engine mount reference too -- for some reason I thought at the same time that I had a pair of steel-enclosed mounts that were the same height both sides--
 

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I don't think I can get the rear end up much higher safely, maybe a couple inches but that's about it.
If you remove the gear shift "stub" from the transmission, then you don't need to raise the rear end at all. If you have rebuilt your trans, then you know how to disassemble the two air vents at the top/sides of the shift tower to remove the pivot and stub. Secure some plastic over the hole or stuff a rag into it to keep debris from falling into the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Great call Jay -- Thanks! Yep the pivot is easy to remove.

Funny thing about the pivot-- when I removed mine, the 'fork' that the two sliding ends presses against was about 40 to 50 thousands 'too wide' such that the shifter stub could rattle around back and forth in the fork-- and I know for sure the sliders were fully extended, it was just that the fork was slightly too large. Its a cast part too so very hard to get the ends squeezed back together. I had heard a rattle in the upper shifter for a long time and finally found it! So I sourced another used one that didn't rattle in the fork. Very strange, I can not figure out how the fork ends moved -- still baffled.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got it done on Sat

With my 20 yr old son helping -- I think it would be really tough to do as a one man job since the trans has to be tilted down really really low - I suppose one could move the hook from the middle head studs forward to give less balance -- anyway its in (physically) and lots more to do -- hope to have it idling by this time next month!

Slow and steady as she goes. Thanks all for the help so far, I'm sure I'll have more questions later!
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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There should be a spring washer on one side of the fork and flat washers/shims on each side of the fork to take up the slop. There is a specfic side so the tip of the fork doesn't try to move 2 sliding rods at the same time when changing gears. Don't of course know if yours has them but it's a common cause of the fork having play. To get the tilt I give the front of the motor a bear hug and guide it in. Great father son project, congrats!
 

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... I suppose one could move the hook from the middle head studs forward to give less balance ...
Oops, probably shoulda mentioned that helpful hint. You do want to move the engine strap forward to get as much of an angle as possible on the motor. Well you persevered none the less so well done!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Gigem those washers are at the top, where the fork assembly mounts onto the trans tunnel. What I was referring to is the actual fork itself; within which there is the gear selector slider and two (one on each side) spring loaded "cylinders" that bring the shift lever back to the middle. The fork is too wide, ie the spring loaded cylinders have slop left-to-right within the actual fork itself. Maybe a photo will help, will try when I can
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Motor was in, but then I had to lift back up a little -- I failed to notice that someone had put a step stud into the driver side rear block motor mount-- M10 1.50 on block side, M8 1.25 on mount side. What had happened was that (long long ago, +20 years at least) someone must have stripped the mount stud, and so rather than repair the thread to accept the correct M8 1.25 x M8 1.0 stud, they tapped for the M10 step stud. AND, long time ago, someone put a M8 1.0 nut on that M8 1.25 stud to secure the motor mount.

Since the M10 was already tapped it is too big for helicoil or time sert. So I found another M10 1.5 x M8 1.25 stud, installed it with the proper 1.25 nut, marked em both yellow paint, and put back together, after realizing via the parts book that those mounts are supposed to have lockwashers installed.

Who has the trick to R/R the pass side front mount nut when the Spica is present -- I was able to do it with two wrenches, my snap on 13 combo and a cheapie that was offset about 5 degrees -- just enough to get the other to fit on---? AND, the body side nut on the engine mount on that side is a doozy to get to as well!

Slowly, slowly.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Next challenge-- for whatever reason, the guibo does not want to mate up with the driveshaft. I had everything marked but I think my father in law might have removed the guibo and re-oriented it. It is fairly (1 year) new with not a lot of miles on it. The driveshaft bolt holes are of by 0.150 or so, maybe even a bit more.

Are all 6 guibo holes symmetrical? I had thought they were but now I am wondering. Also -- any hints or tricks other than be patient and turn the bolts 1/10 of a turn every time?

thanks in advance for any advice--
 

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71 Berlina 74 GTV 17 Giulia Q4
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You will have to get a long hose clamp at Lowes or put a couple together and compress the guibo just enough so it slides on, no sweat
 
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