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Anyone know if there are better or worse door seals for my 74 GTV? Do some fit better than others?

Also, I am looking for the good old U-joints that have the little centering coil springs under one cap so when they wear, they stay balanced. Where do you enthusiasts get these?

What would you recommend to upgrade my standard vinyl front seats? Is there an aftermarket seat that would give better support but look fairly stock?

I have a bubbling driver's door down by the sill. What is recommended for restoration - traditional repair, or finding a new or remanufactured door?

Anyone know how to get my rear window heater going? I see a relay on the wiring diagram - is it under the dash? Can I use a generic relay?

Thanks,
Jim
 

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I have had unsuitable U-joints from four different vendors. I bought good ones from Highwoodalfa.com
 

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Jim:

Check out a thread in the GT section titled "Door problems due to thick rubber seals" started by TargaFlorio on 10/26/2006. The key is to get Cincogani brand seals - Alfaholics carries them. There is another brand of seal that is just too big - everyone seems to have problems with them.
 

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Jim-
I just went through this on my 74 GTV and here is what worked reasonably well for me...note that you doors are never going to close like a new Mercedes. I have the thick seals from Centerline. First off I removed seals in the door area, including the stainless trim plate. Someone had recarpeted my car and under the stainless trim plate the carpet extended onto the rocker area, making the sill plates stick up higher than intended. Trim back any carpet extending past pinch weld on top of sill. Reinstall sill plate (installation is the reverse of removal ;))
Then without seal in place, adjust strike plates on doorframe and door so as to get a flush appearance on the outside of the car. You may need to adjust hinge side as well.
You also may need to adjust the angle of the little catch mechanism on the door part, which can be done by removing the inner door panel and adjusting the rod that runs from the latch to the inside handle. I used prussian blue machinists dye on the strike plates to set them up so that there is no interference between inner and outer door latches. When everything is closing flush, and without interference, reinstall the rubber seal. I left out the metal retaining strips behind the seal, using them only on the part of the seal that contacts the window. Clean out all the old caulk behind the metal retaining strips and glue the seal in place with 3m trim glue. When the glue has thoroughly dried, use a small drill bit to drill some holes in the seal from the inside of the car to the inner part of the bulb on the seal. This is to relieve air pressure inside the seal when you slam the door. Lastly use some silicine spray on the seal, spraying it inside through one of these drilled holes, and outside on the seal, to soften the rubber. (Takes a few days for the silicone spray to soften the rubber.) After doing all this my doors close almost as well as my old BMW 2002.
Good Luck
 
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