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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
71 restoration Odyssey

Hello all,
i have just come into a 71 GTV and am looking at a very lengthy recovery period, i am guessing 2-3 years. It was originally born musk green, but has been painted black-out blue at some point....hmmm....this one was rode hard and put up wet.

the last owner had gotten the car as a parts car and was selling it as such, but I believe that it can be saved, optimist that I am. As a bonus, as i have been cleaning the car out I came across the service book as well as the original owner service card (like a credit card with the original owner's name on it)

first pictures....
As you can see from the rocker picture, there is a lot of lower rust to deal with and that will likely be my first area to attack after I get the title work done (that will probably take a couple of weeks).

I am going to do my best to keep up these posts, i did a sympathetic renewal to a barn find spider over the past two years, planning to post a picture journal after, but alas, hard drive crashed taking all the pictures with it...not happy about that.

I have my first ask for the board- the doors close by themselves very swiftly, and the doors do not latch well. i know the check straps are shut but am worried that the weak rockers resulted in a bit of a bow in unibody. Thoughts and any ideas on whether i should be worried and how to check to see whether that happened?

Thanks, Bill
 

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Having just worked on the doors of my 74 gtv I found the passager door sagging a little. This caused the bottom of the door to bind on the weatherstrip and resulted in a door that wouldn't close properly. May be worth a check.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks MAtteas, I will have a look, it does appear the weatherstripping is a bit off, will have a look.
 

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Almost certainly the hinges are in need of a rebuild. Open the door and jiggle it. It should not jiggle. Search vintage customs' youtube channel for a lot of great info on this and on adjusting the strike. These issues combined seem to account for the great majority of door probs - I've yet to read a thread where a unibody arced as a result of rust... not saying it can't happen, but that would not be project car rust.

If its going in for a rebuild, I'd just pull the door seals off all around. Save them for reference...

The door gaps are set with no seal in place, the presumption being the seal has nothing to do with alignment it just.... seals. Remove the seal a factor as it may well be sagging and/or the steel channels that retain it may have rusted and be blistering outward from the door opening, distorting the seal geometry.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks R-MM,
There is a bit of joggle in the door so that might be it. I have looked over your thread and will be "leveraging" a lot of your techniques. This particular car is probably the second worst i have seen for rust on the site so far, but I believe that the end result will be worth it.

I realized after posting that the rockers would be tensioned rather than compression loaded so i am thinking that the body might be straight. This was a victim of salt on the road and a bunch of dodgy repairs but almost all of the panels are available so I am thinking it will go OK. I will have to rebuild on side of the aft panel where the trailing arms attach and think that will be the hardest part of the rebuild. I am excited and reallly love the dash panel on this year's car.
 

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No problem. Looks manageable to me. The biggest lesson I learned is to accept and welcome the full depth of the metal work right off the bat. On my next project (if that ever happens) after photographing and stripping the car, cutting off obviously derilict panels, I'm taking it directly to the blaster so I get back a nice clean slate to start with and have a road map of all the repairs I'll need to do, and the car down to bare metal and primer to work on top of.

Good luck! Buy your panels while the euro is in the basement!

ps I traveled to Austin for work for many years and miss it sorely.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, been paying attention to the euro...might hit parity sometime this year and that would make for some screaming deals!
I think i am going to save the blasting money and put it towards body panels, and strip the old paint off the old fashioned way. I would rather blast, but at @1500-2000, i can buy all the floor panels and then some keeping a household truce in effect.

The Austin alfa community is great and very supportive. I am hoping there are some residual parts across the membership that will take some of the pinch out of the resto costs.
 

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I think i am going to save the blasting money ..., and strip the old paint off the old fashioned way.
Yes, but how will you strip off the rust? I think you might be under-estimating the magnitude of the job ahead of you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi Jay,
Thanks for the post. Not sure if i am underestimating the situation, I know there is quite a bit of discovery left to do with respect to the rust. The worst of the panels will be replaced in their entirety so that is one item off the list (and that will be a lot of the outer skin replaces). Rust can be treated to some degree, but i also recognize that some blasting may have to happen. If i can contain blasting cost to addressing the rust the bill will be quite a bit less than if the whole car needs to be done.

If there were no accounting "issues" to deal with, i would blast in a heartbeat...then again, i may also change my mind as i continue the discovery process...I am somewhat familiar with the "while I am in there" syndrome
 

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I made the decision to blast when I was laying under the car, wire wheel 4" from my face, gooey undercoating going every direction and about 3% finished with the job. I figured to get the access I need to do the job without bodily injury I either needed a rotisserie, a lift or to have the car blasted. Seeing as I don't own my garage and there was a great blaster in the area....

of course the price concerns are real ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yep, trade-offs...so...if you had to choose either a rotisserie or blasting the car from an economic point of view, which would you choose :)?

I am likely going the rotisserie route as it is the only way to get 3 cars in a 2 car garage...and then the welding and other nasty work will be in front of me rather than over me.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
more carnage

about 3/8 inch of fiberglass resin on the front right fender, with bondo on top of that. The front is going to be a complete replacement.
 

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Hello Bill

Long last someone searches the challenge. This is the right car for that, beautiful task but a lot of work.

My car was in a similar rusty and cheap and dilettantish repair.
When times as much rust is in the car makes a repair only useful if the old parts be replaced with new parts.

In the first step, I would replace the floor and in the second step change of the inner and middle sill. If you have taken this hurdle is the hardest part of the repair doors and adjust the gap-mass.
If you check this with the door rubber, then you start again from the beginning

The rear fenders are often repaired but always rusty as the weld bead was not treated from the inside.

Your wheel arches are strange that can you then check.

Sandblast I would only small-area. Completely dismantle car and in solvents and phosphorus bad so you can reach without heat every area inside and out. Bare metal and not show outside metal and inside original paint. This is my view for a good, but not perfect result. Act requires that has the paint strippers idea and experience.

Rotisserie is a good and for little money you can build one yourself. When floor and sills are finished I would put the car on a reporting framework.

Good examples, ideas, check out my thread. That you have a clue what to expect:
Good 4 years work, 3500 working hours. 1500 by me and the rest of professionals: result stainless, solid body, printed in and out.

Marcel
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hi Marcel,
thanks for the word of encouragement. Your postings were on of the ones that I looked at before undertaking the project. I think yours is one of the few that was worse than the one I am doing! I will be using a lot of your ideas, thank you.

The wheel arches are fiberglass, the previous owner thought that it looked better I guess.

A question for you, I had planned on doing the outer sill before the floor pan, but you recommend the floor pan first-is there a reason for that order? My initial thoughts are to fix the rear bulkhead, install the inner sill, then the cross-member, then do the rear floor pan then the front.
 

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Hello Bill

I would proceed per side.

Beginning with the easier side in the rule that is left side by LHD cars. Snow and salt concentration is higher at the roadside as in the middle of the street. No rule without exception in my left side was worse.

Has 2 advantages you have the original as a reference to measure and you can always see how it looked original.

If you take out the floor before then you can adapted the new panel on the original sill and the gain in the door not get in the way.

Welded the inner sill before the floor panel.

You can temporarily the outer sill and the door install for testing whether you are on the right way..

Of the door you can adjust the fender. Unfortunately, there is not one way is an interaction of all components. Doors are not easy.

Variant you welded one square tubes under the inner sill then you have the height and direction of the sill. Take the old sills off and put the new sills of the cooperative construction and welded this.
Of course you still need an additional reinforcement in the door.

I should also work just like to fit the new parts to the original in as the new parts usually not 100% fit no matter where you buy it, the floor plates comes all from the same factory.

Marcel
 

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Discussion Starter #20
quick question

So, beginning the stripping process and one of the things that GTV's have as a frequent occurrence is getting hit from behind. Mine was bumped, and need an opinion. the car was bumped on the driver side, and my understanding is that if it is strong enough, it will buckle over the rear wheel arch and will need re-heat treating to prevent further issues.

I have stripped that fender (below) and it does not look like there was any buckling. Am I safe in thinking the fender will not need any additional work since it did not crease?
thanks, Bill
 

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