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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I decided to start a new thread as the clutch isn't (I hope) a problem and I am "attacking" a baulky pedal.. Hope everyone is still with me.

So, reviewing the situation, we have a '69 Sprint Jr ( 1750's had this too.. you guys with those) with clutch master under the seat (LHD).. After removing the clevis pin for the clutch master, it seems to be the consensus to unbolt the pedal inside the car and try to slide the pedal shaft out with the pedal box in situ and there is NO option to remove the pedal box with this shaft in place because of clearance on the frame rail.

It's a little weird that Alfa would install a pedal box assembly without the clutch pedal shaft in place and then monkey around with that after the fact on the assembly line. I thought only Lancia would come up with something as goofy as that! Is this the way it is?

Secondly, I'm flying blind without a parts manual and trying to get one from Pappy... Does anyone have the pages showing the pedal box components? Posting them would be swell or e-mail [email protected].

Lastly, is there a pedal return spring for the clutch lever in the box? Maybe that is busted too. Wimperingly yours, Uncle PS i found this but not enough definition to my questions.....http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/gt-1963-1977/145027-help-pedal-box-removal-standing-pedals.html
 

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Go to this site
Spare parts catalogs

and download 1387 Vol. 1 . Pedal box stuff starts on page 219
 

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It's a little weird that Alfa would install a pedal box assembly without the clutch pedal shaft in place and then monkey around with that after the fact on the assembly line.
I don't disagree. Fooling around with the tapered pin that locks the pedal to the shaft, with the box in the car, is awkward. But that's how I remember assembling the '69 pedal assembly several years ago. Note that relying on my memory has its risks.

is there a pedal return spring for the clutch lever in the box? Maybe that is busted too.
Yes, there is a hair spring that goes in a slot at the inner end of the clutch pivot shaft (see photo below that I borrowed from the BB). That spring was missing on my car, so I just did without it. Between the spring in the MC and the push-back from the pressure plate, my clutch pedal comes back up just fine. So my point is that you don't seem to need the spring - it wouldn't be nearly strong enough to overcome a rusted/stuck shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jay, you skirted my dig on the Lancia "engineering" which those boys go ga-ga over and justify a CF anytime one thinks of fixing anything.. Thanks for your contribution, though. I'll take off the "top inspection plate and start lathering the shaft with PB and drink beer and smoke cigars until Thanksgiving then see what happens.. the polar vortex isn't here yet like the MW but cruising drive-ins is out for the season.

Thanks to Frank too for the link.

I'll keep you all posted.

Imagine waiting two months for this beauty to hit these shores and now this. Too bad the warranty expired on the ship. Uncle
 

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Jay, you skirted my dig on the Lancia "engineering" which those boys go ga-ga over and justify a CF anytime one thinks of fixing anything.
I have no direct experience with Lancia engineering, so have no axe to grind. I did visit a local Aurelia specialist a year or so back, and saw Lancias in various states of disassembly. That clutch and inboard brakes all built into the rear differential looked pretty "CF" to me.
 

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I've never worked on a LHD 105 series but everytime I see that cast housing it looks like an after thought. Considering Italy was LHD at the time I do not understand it.

The RHD solution is so simple and elegant in comparison ...

Somebodies @rse should have been kicked around the workshop when they were building the prototype IMO.
Pete
 

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We figured this out years ago on the west coast.....
Drill a small hole in the casting down to the shaft, introduce your favorite penetrant/lube and start working the pedal back and forth. Mine freed up nicely.
It may cost you a few concourse points thou....
 

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We figured this out years ago on the west coast.....
Drill a small hole in the casting down to the shaft, introduce your favorite penetrant/lube and start working the pedal back and forth. Mine freed up nicely.
It may cost you a few concourse points thou....
Clever.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
We figured this out years ago on the west coast.....
Drill a small hole in the casting down to the shaft, introduce your favorite penetrant/lube and start working the pedal back and forth. Mine freed up nicely.
It may cost you a few concourse points thou....
Thanks sounds like a plan
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Been sidelined with nursing a spouse with a new reman'ed knee.... better than that pesky one she was born with. If only our car parts would last as long...70 Years...So I got the pedal box inspection plate off and found the clutch spring busted as a bonus. Looks like someone else has had it off before.. soaking with PB Blaster and that needs to work for a few days... Looking ever so much like a
pedal extraction.. Do we have to talk the brake pedal out TOO when removing the box or is there enough clearance to noodle the pedal nipple out of the frame? That one is loose as a goose. Whining, as usual.
 

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Best wishes on a speedy recovery for your wife.

Someone will jump in here on the brake question.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I've been getting ahead of myself on removing the pedal box. Seems the more obvious way to go is to leave it in the car and drive the clutch pedal shaft out after loosening the pedal and curing the clutch pedal rod tightness. The brake pedal is loose as a goose so I really don't need to pull the box.

Seems I'll need to bolt a steel bar to the clutch lever that actuates the clutch master outside the frame rail and hammer on it to urge it out. I hope i hope..

The next point of contention is getting enough leverage on a hammer to drive the tapered pedal KEY BOLT holding the pedal to the shaft out while lying on my back as i don't have a lift. Fun fun fun.

So the clutch pedal return spring is busted... I have read it really isn't that necessary... any dark thoughts on that? Uncle
 

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Clutch pedal spring

I got frustrated looking for the correct spring so I had some manufactured by a spring company. They are exactly as the original. Additionally, they are plated which will help protect against corrosion. Send me a PM if you want the proper spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Best wishes on a speedy recovery for your wife.

Someone will jump in here on the brake question.
EUREKA!!!! two days of PB Blaster freed the pedal to allow it to move on it's own weight.. My usual foul mood improved by leaps and bounds. I can cut back on my medication now! If I had to remove the clutch pedal... it wasn't looking pretty with the exhaust in the way.

Thanks for the best wishes on my wife she even has a spring in her step, too
 

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Now that your clutch pedal moves freely, is your plan is to just leave it be? That's what I would do - that hair spring is nice to have, but its benefits might not outweigh the trouble of removing the tapered pin that secures the pedal to the shaft.

Is your clutch working OK now?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Now that your clutch pedal moves freely, is your plan is to just leave it be? That's what I would do - that hair spring is nice to have, but its benefits might not outweigh the trouble of removing the tapered pin that secures the pedal to the shaft.

Is your clutch working OK now?
Jay you got that right.. It's staying right where it is and will get an annual spritz of oil from now on. The spring should go on without rotating the pedal on the shaft with a little levering on it to snap it into place if I have noodled this right.. It'll take some preloading with lever but should go in without loosening the pedal on the shaft as I see it...I think..Unless i have no clearance to "wind" it. Thinking gets me in trouble. I sense what you are saying is one has to wind the spring using the clevis lever and that is the logical way. but curious if anyone has done it without pulling the shaft.
 
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